Project BADwagon 1984 300TDt Om606 6 speed
 

I've been plotting and planning while squirreling away parts for an everyday fun to drive manual trans hot rod diesel car/work truck ish tow vehicle forever and have just ended up using my 300sd and sdl with no back seat with grand plans for an elcamino type build from the sdl. It's toast. In just about every way. Electrical gremlins, the om603 just bit the dust and really the killer of all is just tons of rust in structural areas and body work.
So here's the new plan. I picked up a rust free(for the most part, a couple little issues) w123 wagon for 400$ , it's pretty amazing. Granted it needs alot of tlc and some accident damage in the rad support fender lip area fixed, buy my welding skills are up to it.
The front suspension will be the best of what's in the car and what is currently in my 300sdl w126 chassis. This includes the 300mm vented front disc brakes and very likely the front sdl springs relived of at least one coil possibly more. For those who don't know the w126 and w123 share all the exact same suspension components from the inner control arm bushings out so that's all direct bolt on swap from dinky solid rotors to the nice large gen 2 w126 brakes. If any bushings look bad I'll change them. I'm not sure if I'm going to make delrin control arm bushings for this car yet. Kyb shocks are fantastic and affordable.
The drive train is where it starts getting good. Engine is a 1999 om606. Hx35 or 40 turbo to push 300-400 hp with supporting injection pump. It's capable of more but unnecessary. The trans is a 6 speed manual 716.668 from a 2001 c230 kompressor and I just got a 2.82 ASD 210mm ring gear (same as all v8 car diffs since 1973 or so) differential from a 350SDL W126 gen 2 car. This is a computer controlled hydraulic actuated differential locker that is a limited slip differential until the computer would apply hydraulic pressure to a separate system that locks the clutches and the limited slip. Rather than swap in all the complex system to operate it when the car seems its proper, I'll have a small master cylinder with check valve to Pump it Up and a release so I can simply lock the rear wheels together when I want to get some extra towing grip or force the car into drifting duty.
The tricky part here is that the gen 2 w126 differential does not have the same mounts from the case to the subframe, and a w126 subframe does not fit into a w123. So after much head-scratching and staring at parts laying on my shop floor I've got it figured out how to get everything attached and sitting in the exact correct position. The gen 2 w126 and r107 (86 and up)use the same newer style differential/subframe mount system which, instead of using the diff cover as the only mounting point for the rear of the subframe to the crossbeam in the car by four bolts, uses a large section welded onto the top of the subframe and has an arm (yellow marking) that reaches back that connects to the standard type rear subframe mount and then to a different style differential rear cover that has a provision(which attaches under where the green arrow points) to be bolted to the bottom of this arm (yellow) protruding from the top of the subframe. The red dots are the 4 hole areas the w123 and gen 1 w126 gen 1 diff bolts in. Since the w126 and w123 subframes are very similar but not the same overall track width I can cut the rear/top section off the w126 subframe and attach it to the w123 wagon subframe. If I bolt a gen 1 type 4 bolt 210mm into the wagon subframe with a gen 2 style rear cover on it i will be able to positively locate the cut off section of w126 subframe and allow me to trim and fit/weld the new section on to the w123 in the right place. A small jig that bolts to the flex disc yoke and the subframe will positively locate the front section. Once they are in place I can remove the gen 1 diff and install the gen 2 diff and use both mounts, it's original rear mount and the flex disc yoke, to locate the diff where it will live. I can now weld in the plates that the forward mounts bolt to on the bottom of the subframe. Once that is done the flex disc yoke jig will be removed and the diff will mount exactly as it would have if a gen 2 w123 was ever built. The actual rubber insulated rear mount that attaches to the cross beam in the car has a four bolt pattern as well. On the gen 2 type mount it shares the same left side holes in the chassis but in it's right side holes. The other two now offset to the left will have to be drilled and use another threaded insert bar If they are not present.
It seems a little drastic maybe but to be able to positively lock the rear axle is a great thing for me. I would just weld the diff since the LSD are not the most spectacular in operation and I am a drifter, this car will tow my drift car and should I break it severely at an event I will drift the wagon for the rest of the day. Towing on a welded diff is not really a great idea. Nothing more lame than a one wheel burnout too.
The 6 speed trans and flywheel from the supercharged m111 4 cyl bolt right up to the om602/603/606 and m102/103/104 family of engines. I'm having an injection pump built (really the last piece of the puzzle) by either benzforce or diesel pump UK. The stock 603 pump and my propane injection kit will be good for the time being if I don't have it on hand yet.
This engine has been installed in the w123 chassis by a few different people. I've done lots of research and got lots of info on what's necessary. Some custom mounts are no problem, some oil pan trimming is probably required as well. My new Tig welder will come in handy there.
I haven't decided if it will get antisquat rear suspension from a r107 or w126 yet, but it will definitely have all the same delrin goodies I have in my drift car. Subframe inserts, control arm bushings sway bar bushings, all to keep rear sway under control while towing.
I've got some custom body work planned from my very first Mercedes which was a 300td. Modified nose with a w108 grill and split bumper. Some hand made AMG ish side skirts and a small euro coupe rear bumper. 17" wheels I'm pretty sure. I love my 16" rial n weave but they are just dinosaurs and far as tire selection. I've got tons of wheels so that is still up in the air.
Just getting this started so I'll have a list and can check them off. I bought the car in Boston a couple years ago and dragged it home and parked it. It ran but overheated. No vaccum system operating. I just got the car running driving and stopping with a thermostat, vaccum pump repair and some Electric window switch cleaning. It has SLS delete and had really cheap SENSEN shocks that were totally blown out. Only buy them in an emergency, they really are garbage. I threw a used shock in the driver rear since that one was ding nothing but rattling around. I have kyb w126 front shocks going in and probably in the back. I have some air shocks that I may install but I need to see how the rear sits first.


Here we go. This should be fun. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...d315d0a879.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...c72d744753.jpg

Sent from my SM-J737A using Tapatalk

Just curious, but would the 560sl rear subframe be better to line things up for the mount because the mount width is probably the same as the c107 and w123?

Meaning the width of the side subframe mounts I'm assuming?
They have no bearing on where the diff needs to be in relation to the control arms and hubs. The only thing that matters is that the outputs of the diff and the front flange for the driveshaft are in the same place as the original gen 1 diff.
I will install the gen 2 diff rear cover with the offset mount provision on the gen 1 diff(which would originally have the centered mount bolted directly to the diff cover) and install it in the w123 subframe by the 4 studs(red dots that you can see the gen 2 diff doesn't have). This will allow me to bolt the added on gen 2 subframe mount arm(yellow triangle in the pic)to the diff cover after cutting it off the w126 subframe and trimming it to get it to fit the w123 subframe for welding. Then build a jig to bolt to the drive flange and weld or bolt it to the subframe. Once that is all done the diff comes out and the gen 2 cover goes back on to the gen 2 diff. It will now bolt into the w123 subframe by the drive flange and the diff cover and I can now build the front mounts up on the subframe to where they need to be and it will all be perfectly lined up. I'll need to pull the diff one last time to finish weld all of it and paint it. The new portion of the subframe has the holes that the big offset rubber and steel mount bolts on to instead of being centered and bolted to the diff cover on the gen 1 w123 type mount.
I'll try to document it when it's getting done. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...0cd6899689.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...ad21bc41c3.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...b41a6eb3e6.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...2191ec03af.jpg

Sent from my SM-J737A using Tapatalk

I thought a picture of a gen2 installed in a car would help me to understand.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...58d44bbc75.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If you can mount a gen2 cover to a gen1 diff, I assume you can mount a gen1 cover to a gen2 diff. The problem is that it doesn’t have the studs to mount the gen2 diff to the gen1 subframe. Correct?

Correct. That would only make a diff you could hang from the car and nothing else. I'm ONLY doing this to use the diff as a jig to modify my w123 subframe. You can't even bolt it into the car with out the modified subframe since the gen 2 cover bolts to the subframe and not the rear mount. But now I think about it I should be able to swap back to a gen 1 diff with if I ever want to. So that's nice.

Sent from my SM-J737A using Tapatalk

I've been using the wagon for a couple days. Unfortunately my 300sd daily started making some bad noises. It broken odometer with 274,000 a long time ago. I think it's a rod knocking. It was a real ***** to start on Thursday morning and it was far above freezing. It made some weird kickback events and I had to jump it. It felt a little low on power and after work driving home I heard some knocky rattley noises. I was hopeful it was valve train but it's not. UGH. I changed the oil after flushing the motor with mineral spirits thinking I could have a low oil pressure issue. Sounds better but it's still noisey. I don't have much faith in it but who knows how long it will run. This wagon runs strong and good but I think it's got a little leaky headgasket going on. Full pressure in the cooling system the next day. The rear driveline is a mess. The axles have bad boots and the diff is super sloppy. I've got a brake making scraping sounds and the tires are all low tread drift leftovers I didn't fully kill which are unbalanced so it's got some pretty good shimmy. I do love having the wagon again though. The SLS delete is pretty stiff but I'm fine with that. 8 batteries in the back for a AutoZone drop off git me a 10$ 5 gal rotella bucket. I can't wait to have this all redone. Being that I don't trust it fir a long run I just pulled my w115 240d 4 speed I bought non running in to the shop to tinker with. I can't start tearing down the wagon till I have a daily I trust. Figures some **** like this goes down.

Sent from my SM-J737A using Tapatalk

Why not just put a modern rear subframe in it with everything that fits? It would be easier than what you are doing. Like a 202 AMG car or something with limited slip.

How do you figure it would be easier? Have you ever looked at the floor of a multi link car compared to a diagonal swingaxle car? I'm going to guess no. The spring pockets are behind the axle in a multilink car just for starters. Could it be done? Sure, but it would be a complete reengineering of the rear of the car for no reason. The subframe mounts completely different and isn't close to.the right shape to fit the floor. All I'm doing is creating new mounts for a diff that is essentially the exact same mechanical dimensions. Stock driveshaft, axles, brakes, shocks springs, e brake. Find a single mulitlink swapped w123 or similar car COMPLETED and see how easy it was.

Sent from my SM-J737A using Tapatalk

yeah I guess moving the spring perches might be a pain. I do have a 123 and a 124 and just got done redoing the whole subframe, diff mounts, wavetrac, custom driveshaft, bigger swaybar, modified SLS valve bracket and all the links on the 124, so I do have some idea what's involved.

I was thinking in particular about Pyry Takkunen redoing his w108 with a w202 subframe or similar; can't recall exactly what he used but it looks very similar to a 124 setup: https://www.instagram.com/p/CEhbzRcJqIY/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link. You would get much more modern suspension geometry. A 123 is just not in the same league as a 124 or later car with multi link rear suspension.

Is that SDL ASD differential the same style case differential that’s used in a w124 or a r129 ? I’m just asking because Jason does have both of those rear ends in his shop. If it’s truly not that much body work to make the subframes mount in, then maybe it is worth consideration. Jason sounds like he’s got his mind made up though.

I know that nothing felt as “planted” as my 1992 500sl r129. But does the R129 and/or w124 rear suspension utilize the anti-squat / anti-dive technology? While the trailing control arms result in different wheel angles at different spring compressions, they do operate a bit like they have an upper control arm as the axle is able to rotate on the control arm, unlike a w123 or really any 6 cylinder trailing control arm. Since the 6 (and smaller) cylinder cars before the W124s didn’t use the anti-squat technology, I wonder if the w124s did.

Maybe a bit of an overview of the anti-squat vs standard vs r129 vs w124 rear suspension would be worth reviewing here (while Jason just welds up that subframe anyway).

No, the 124 v8 diffs are a totally different case than the 126 case. The r129 sL and w124 diffs are the same, at least for v8 cars. If going 606 with a big pump and turbo, getting a 124 v8 diff and half shafts makes lots of sense. Or just plug LSD guts into the 123 pumpkin.

The springs would like to live right where the structural member crosses behind the diff. So that would need to be essentially cut down to nothing. There is also no room for upper control arms to cycle in the inner fender lip so all that has to be cut out. Trust me I've stared at the complete r129 subframe and w124 e320 big diff subframe on my shelf plenty. A w108 has much more room out there and a flat floor with no cross beam in the way. There is nothing wrong with the handling of a w123(or any of the cars with this rear end design) rear suspension if it's set up right. They are just too soft from the factory. They all understeer until you stiffen the rear up anyway. On equal tires I'd take my SLC against a w124 on twisty roads any day. True there is more adjustment available on a multilink but it's just not worth the hassle of doing. You have other factors to consider in a subframe swap too like roll center geometry and roll couple(different roll center heights) between front and rear which will do goofy things if they are way off. Plus getting your modified mounting points in the chassis dead nuts aligned so it's not driving sideways or has some wacked out alignment specs to correct for it is not an easy thing to do.

Sent from my SM-J737A using Tapatalk

I'm using the w126 gen 2 210mm case in this car for the 2.82 asd. It's going to be no different than the modified by Mercedes gen 2 subframe. Underneath it is identical to the gen 1 minus the 4 holes drilled for the diff mount and the small plates for the front mount. It's the same size as the v8 w124 cars as well and every v8 car besides certain special models and the v12 with the reinforced diff. From what I've seen the axle is the weak link and the reinforced uses the same drive spline so...... I'm building another similar subframe for my SLC drift car that will house a w140 3.69 210mm diff. Simply because I don't have the tools to confidently swap the guts and have them absolutely perfectly setup like a factory part would be. 6000rpm clutch dumps say they need to be.
As far as "plug the guts into the w123 pumpkin", the w123 housing is a 185mm. I could use a r107/w126 v8 housing, but the fact that the side spacers and pinion spacers are listed in the epc with .05 mm increments to set the gear lash I'd be much happier to modify the subframe which I'm 100% confident will work without a problem. Plus the main reason is to have the ASD hydraulic locker at my disposal. No gen 1 cars ever used ASD so it wouldn't be usable. I am picking up a second 3.69 diff and I would love to build a 3.69 or 3.46 ASD LSD diff for a street/drift car without a welded diff. But the 3.46 LSD I have is too valuable to take apart really.


Sent from my SM-J737A using Tapatalk

Now that sounds like maybe a reason to build that r107 drift car. No custom subframe required, when you can just use a 560sl rear subframe.

Nope. W140 rear isn't the same as a gen 2 w126/r107. It's closer for sure but the front mount is different. I'm gonna give the old
c-bomb one more year with the new rear setup and the front mods I have planned. Fix the rust and throw a ****ty paint job on. Too much else on the plate for a full build.

Sent from my SM-J737A using Tapatalk

All that special tool crap is only to crush the pinion sleeve. You can swap all the guts and check the lash without touching that. You can even change the input flange without messing up the crush; just don't get carried away. You need to put one ring bolt in after putting the carrier assembly back in, but you can just torque that one in place. Rig up a dial indicator on a mag stand. The spacers are specific to the case; none of the dimensions change to the bearing races so just transfer the ring to the new center assembly, confirm the lash is within spec and check the gear mesh pattern and close it up. It doesnt care what rpm you launch at.

I'm not sure that is absolutely correct. Changing the ratio(from the mid 2.xx to 3.08 carrier to the 3.27-3.69) and therefore the carrier would very likely change what spacers needed to be used. I could be wrong but it's not a procedure I'm going to test out on a perfectly good diff, plus then if I do break it Ive got to build a new one every time instead of bolting in a $54 welded diff. The LSD isn't up to the task of being used in my drift car (where the welded 3.69 is going)at all anyway. I've got a 3.46 LSD I would use if it were the case. The ASD 2.82 is going in this wagon and there is no gen 1 case ASD to even screw around with.

Sent from my SM-J737A using Tapatalk

Yay! I got a new to me om617 long block to throw in my SD so I can take the wagon out of service backup status and actually do the necessary fab work(when I have time) It's got issues anyway. The rear axle is a total mess and no rear brakes it appears as well. I've been driving a 300d my friend gave me after some quack indie screwed her out of a bunch of money throwing brake parts at it and not the right ones. Needed vacuum pump check valves and a master cylinder, the booster was completely full of brake fluid. It is also a pile though. I miss the SD.

Sent from my SM-J737A using Tapatalk

You're attempting a dream build for me, so this is going to be an interesting project to follow to be sure.

Yeah I'm excited. I never thought I'd find a wagon worth building that was In my price range. Soon as my SD is back on the road I'll start the motor removal. I'm actually considering mounting the 606 up in a w123 coupe I have here just to get the motor mount fabrication and fitment stuff done in a shell I don't care about. Also then the wagon is still drivable and not yardsaled all over the shop for who knows how long it may take to get it all ready to go. I do really wish there was a w116 or even w126 wagon to build. Such A shame there are only a few coach built specimens out there.

Sent from my SM-J737A using Tapatalk

If you're not afraid of metalwork, you could always make your own wagon. After spending a considerable amount of time over on the GRM forum, I've seen all sorts of custom creations.

I wouldn't mind doing this to an SEC either, probably like a 380 or something so the purists don't cry at the idea of tearing up a perfectly good 500/560. The problem with coupes, like S123s, is that they are skyrocketing in price, even for a basketcase of a car.

Hell, 2.3-16s are up to almost $10,000 for a ratty shell of car...

Though, I really need to do something about the 170S I've got that I've made no progress on in almost 10 years of having it. Finding a modern, small form factor motor is next to impossible, and find a more recent MB motor (like the M111) with a manual behind it is also impossible.

I've pondered and stared and measured, Trust me. This car is going to get used thoroughly so leaky rickety concept car isn't in the cards yet. If I was going that far I'd do it to something way cooler too. Actually talked to my buddy who does fine cabinetry about a Woody w111 wagon . My 300sd may become an elcamino with a removable cap at some point too.

Sent from my SM-J737A using Tapatalk

I've been driving the 500SE off and on, and I'm just unhappy with the automatic in it. I've got a T5 from a turbo'd 280ZX, but after all my reading in the Non-MB trans swap thread, I'm wondering if I want to go through the work for a one-off fabrication, where when time comes for a flywheel/clutch replacement down the road I'm engineering a replacement again.

If I'm going to do all that work, may as well swap in a motor that's already got the aftermarket there for manual transmission parts. The LS is so cliche... but it just works.

I've manual swapped my F350, and I'm about to do the same to my '98 Durango, but the thing about those two is that the motors in both of those had manuals as factory options (the 5.9 Magnum V8 in the Durango was also used in the Ram trucks, which came with the NV4500 in the heavier duty trucks), so those swaps are pretty straight forward.

I'm happy to continue living with the Euro M117 in the 500SE, but I'm tired of that gearbox, and I've no interest in rebuilding another 722.xxx. Decisions, decisions.

Use a bwm e36 2.8 or m3 high performance single mass replacement. Replaceable friction surface so only initial fitment modifications. Its 8 bolt so oval out the holes and center bore correction. Should be able to source a small disc that is compatible. Not sure what that Nissan input shaft is. I would bag that and go mustang t5 for parts availability and upgrades. Plus ratio in the z trans is idk what. Hack off an auto bell behind the pump flange or get a 722.6 bell. Adapter plate.

Sent from my SM-J737A using Tapatalk

Doing some looking around last night, and the M113 is getting fairly inexpensive for a sub-100k mile take out. I've seen a handful of examples of folks having good luck with the 6-speed manual out of the Crossfire, since it all bolts right up. Seems to handle the torque okay as well, at least on the naturally aspirated motors. I'm not looking at smoking people off the line, so NA is more than okay with me. Baseline MS tunes are out there for the M113, but I wouldn't be adverse to keeping the stock engine management if I had an entire, running donor vehicle to transfer everything over.

Hmm, never thought about the 722.6 bellhousing. Like the Mustang T5, the 280ZX T5 has a removable bellhousing but yeah... ratios.

I can get m113 and all the relatives for 256$ all day at the pick a part junkyards. But it's like a box of chocolates [emoji16]
Been waiting for that m112 6 speed to pop up too. They are about perfect power level(m113 5.0 and a 6 speed) for a grassroots drift car. Any more and it starts getting real expensive on tires.

Sent from my SM-J737A using Tapatalk

Yeah, that's kinda what I was thinking.

I think that's why I'm going to look for a running pullout and pay a little extra for something that's been tested.

I've only seen one M113 at the yard here over the last 12 years, and that was just a few months back. They don't usually end up in yards in here for some reason or another.

The more I think about it, the more I think that's the way to go. Maybe then do the same with the 300SEL if I can ever get that thing road worthy again.

Early e500 clk500 s500 pop up all the time. Lots are towed from Baltimore off the street. So really who knows but I'll bet plenty of jailbirds didn't make it to court before the 18 days are up.

Sent from my SM-J737A using Tapatalk

Maybe that will start happening here, too. Getting a running, driving car wouldn't be bad.

Can't dissagree when doing a swap. Just not alot is going to be getting used from one of those cars in a trailing arm or swing axle car. I've got tons of parts cars to rob ancillaries from. E 430 are dirt cheap. Or a s500 with blown air struts. Eh. Diesel power!!! [emoji16][emoji16]

Sent from my SM-J737A using Tapatalk

What I've also noticed is that it appears you can retain the stock recirculating ball steering with the M113, unlike other options where you're looking at a rack and pinion setup from like a W210.

The biggest constraints on me right now, and have been for years now, are both time to do anything, and space to do it in.

Yeah. I've done tons of research on rack conversions and more specifically the correct geometry needed to do it. I drive my cars very hard and just "putting a rack in" is not a viable option. There are so many things going on that 95% of the conversion threads don't address or understand. Bump steer is a result of many different alingments and arcs of all the components. Rack location forward backward up down, width between inner tie rods, tie rod length.... I'm soooo glad I never just jumped in and made it happen because I would probably not have been happy with the results. I'm throwing one more round of mods in my 450slc with the steering box to get that few more degrees of steering I need for a safety net drifting with 2,3,4,5,6 or whatever car trains that start happening at the level I'm getting to now. I do have a very good idea of how to do it and retain the same basic geometry of the existing steering. A w123 and w126 is a whole different animal though.

Sent from my SM-J737A using Tapatalk

I seem to be in the minority of folks who actually likes the stock recirculating ball steering, so being able to keep it is a priority if possible.

I don't intend to track or drive the car super aggressively while putting down absurd amounts of torque. I just want a smoother V8, with a bit more to it, and the ability to shift my own gears for a comfortable driver.

I still need to revisit the pedal box to revise the clutch pedal.

I love it. It feels great with a smaller wheel. My issue is the linkage has less than ideal geometry for getting ridiculous amounts of steering angle in a drift car. Plus I really want to put an m119 in the car and m119 and steering box does not get along unless it's in a w126. Not sure on a w123 but it coñsiderably narrower. Nothing wrong with an LS swap except it's another LS swap. If you are serious look into Canton oil pans and Nissan S13/14 chassis swap steel front sump pans. They look ideal if not drop in you can easily trim and weld.
I have w126 manual pedals here. I'm copying the clutch pedal for my 300sd([emoji2958]). W123 pedals will fit but they sit just a hair higher And could possibly interfere with stuff above them, I haven't looked. The parts are all actually available from Mercedes. The bracket is the same but the post to hang the pedal needs to be extended. All the other mount parts and the casting are the same and present.

Sent from my SM-J737A using Tapatalk

I want to avoid the LS cliche, but it is hard to argue with. I am ultimately leaning on the M113, ditching the MB engine management and going standalone.

However, having those oil pan suggestions to fall back on isn't a bad thing. I'll be better setup to weld aluminum once I get a TIG here at the house.

I just bought one and haven't touched it yet. Got the Vulcan pro tig 205 with a 15% coupon for 850$. Need to get my argon bottle still. It gets great reviews from everyone.
You would have to be nuts or a rocket scientist to try to use the MB computer. Especially with a manual. It's been done a few times in the car but separating it from everything is a whole different ballgame.

Sent from my SM-J737A using Tapatalk

I'm looking at something that's multiprocess, so I'll have another MIG if I need it, and can also do stick. I use big ass synchrowave 350 at the shop, but I'm not going to go that crazy for here at the house. I don't have 220V yet, and I don't think my sub-panel is up to the task for a 220V.

I'm a bit of both, but I'd rather not deal with it if I don't have to, heh. Being able to run diagnostics with MS will be better for reliability anyway. I'm going to attempt to get my hands on a motor in the next few weeks, while keeping my eyes peeled for the crossfire box.

I looked at multi process but none I could afford were ac/DC. Useless to me if I can't do aluminum.

Sent from my SM-J737A using Tapatalk

Yeah, if it can't do AC/DC is is worthless to me, especially since space is limited, hard to justify having more than two machines. The Hobart MIG I currently have is reasonably portable enough, and still gets the job done since I'm welding FCAW. I'll save the gas I get for TIG.

Flux core makes me want to kill myself. It has its moments it is good, but anywhere a mig isn't inappropriate it is sooooo much nicer to use. Outside windy day ? Sure fcaw is great. Maybe when you are really pushing it with a 110 mig the flux penetration is better. I have a Lincoln weld pak 110 that really works great. I'm going to try a
yes welder ds 205 out for heavier stuff that's not getting tigged. It gets really good reviews and will do DC Tig and stick as well. I'm. Hoping they will do the right thing and make a mig/plasma unit before I buy. They said it's been talked about. Seems like a good company and cheap as dirt.

Sent from my SM-J737A using Tapatalk

In my experience cutting and acid etching FCAW vs GMAW, I've had identical or better penetration with FCAW. For aesthetic reasons, and reduction of overall mess, I prefer TIG in 90% of all applications if I can do it. It's just a slower process, and not as portable.

I've been wanting to try out an ESAB Rebel, heard a lot of good things about their TIG-only machine, but still a little up there on the cost.

Sure. Fcaw is like stick welding. It's always better penetrayion than mig per power level. But any issue you have with a bead and it's, clean all the crap off maybe grind it back, bla bla bla. Never gonna do thin sheet metal nice. I did my dual rear caliper handbrake setup with a 110v mig on probably 1/4" thick forged steel. Just set it up right and gouged it out for full penetration.

Sent from my SM-J737A using Tapatalk

I think that’s not your average 110v MIG. I’ve heard others with the same talk about how nice of a welder the Lincoln 110 is. Or is it a Lincoln 100? Right? I don’t know.