500E Coolant hoses
 

Just thought I'd share with the Forum my recent completion of a "hose job" (hehe) on my 500E. I replaced every single hose in there, forward of the rear wheels! Big job...lots of hoses. What prompted me to do this is that one of the hoses going into the back of the engine ruptured, giving me a clear sign that the hoses were at the end of their service life. And because I was darn near stranded when my hose let go, I vowed to never put myself in that position again.

If I were a W124 M119 owner, I would definitely replace some of the hoses in there. If you were only going to do a few, start with the two that lead from the back of the engine out through the firewall and to the heater unit. These hoses get baked, and have to allow for engine vibration (remember, they attach to the engine on one end and the chassis on the other) so have both temp. and physical stresses imposed on them. And if they blow, both are sufficiently specialized that you will assuredly be stranded (plus you will melt the skin off of your hands trying to replace these on a hot engine). I'd next consider the lower front radiator hose (since it's a 3-branch deal that also goes to the expansion tank) and the upper radiator hose.

During this process I thoroughly flushed my entire system, right down to pulling the block drains (there are 2) and using my Topsider to suck coolant out of every exposed passage (incl. the heater core). My plan is to run it for a week (using a 60% H2O/40% MBZ coolant mix), then change the fluid again; this way I'll be sure to have gotten 98% or more of the old stuff out.

If anyone has any questions, fire away!

Well I think I might have some questions although I'm not sure how related it is.

My mechanic and I were looking over my car during an oil change recently and I pointed out a small leak I noticed near midsection front of the engine. We determined that the leak is not major but will need attention in the next year or so. So now I'm looking at having the timing chain, rails, all upper gaskets, power steering pump, belts, tensioners etc replaced next year. He said that if I'm going to get the gasket replaced everything will come apart anyways and you might as well change out any wear items which are easily accessed.

My PS Pump is leaking so I know this needs attention. Belts and tensioner haven't been changed in about 4.5 years so I'm thinking I should do this as well.

So my question is if I'm going to have the front end apart and have the car away for 4 days is there anything else I should take care of. I'm going to change out the hoses for the coolant now that you mention them but what else is there. I want to knock everything off in one shot so I don't pay extra laber down the road. By the way expected labor hours is 20 hours.

Your thougths anyone?

Replace your water pump and thermostat. I also replaced my expansion tank & overflow tank (hidden behind fender liner, behind passenger-side front wheel) since my cooling system was so open.

>If I were a W124 M119 owner, I would definitely replace some of the hoses in there. If you were only going to do a few, start with the two that lead from the back of the engine out through the firewall and to the heater unit.

>These hoses get baked, and have to allow for engine vibration (remember, they attach to the engine on one end and the chassis on the other) so have both temp. and physical stresses imposed on them.

>And if they blow, both are sufficiently specialized that you will assuredly be stranded (plus you will melt the skin off of your hands trying to replace these on a hot engine).


Michael, echoes here of the idea I've been batting around in the other thread about coating the exhaust manifolds to increase the life of heat-perishable components under the 500E hood.


>If anyone has any questions, fire away!


Okay, here's one: did you opt for MBZ OEM replacements for the hoses, or did you upgrade to something beefier like braided stainless (which, in certain sizes, can be less expensive than factory components!)?

s/b

I used exclusively OE components-given that MBZ was not shy about using braided lines on the 500s, I figured they were in use where needed. Further, many of the hoses are not simple A-to-B deals-often they have smaller lines branching off of them.

Hey Afshin. If you have low miles on your 500, You can wait on the timing chain. I'd replace the rail and chain and tensioner about 85K. If you have like 50 or 60K. Your ok still. Truth is our damn 500's get soo hot. Its not a bad idea changing out the hoses. I havn't change the rears. I did the fronts, at 84K with a new waterpump,waterpump bypass,upper and lower rad hoses.
Also For all you 500 guys out there. There is the braided return line from the hydraulic revervoir,they get hot and crack I rec to replace them. Also the hydraulic braided return hose from p/s pump to the reservoir line.


Well thats about it right now.


Guido

Guido,

Actually your right about the timing chain, the reason I plan on changing it is because most of the engine will have to come apart anyways to replace the leaking gasket. As I understand it the parts aren't what cost alot it's thelabor. I figure if I take care of everything now I should be set for another 50K or so.

I'll probably be taking care of everything during the spring of next year. Once this is completed the only other replacement part will be that rear sunshade.

Actually you recently repaired Daesun's sunshade and mine has the same problem. Can you explain what is involved in repairing the sunshade and weather or not it's an easy fix?

Well you still have starmark right. If not. Its some labor involved


1, you have 4 10mm screws in in the trunk hatshelf. If you look
up you will see them topside of trunk area
2. Remove them push up on the screws a little.

3. From inside the car hatshelf area. You will see a cut out for
the sunshade, it looks like the sunshade is part of the hatself
panel buts not. It seperates from there. But you have to
wiggle it up and down back and foeth til comes free.





see ya

Thanks Guido,

I'll take a look at the four screws you mentioned and a closer look at the hatshelf. I might just bring it into the dealer. Unfortunately I don't have a Starmark, my car was too old to make it but I do have an aftermarker warranty. I'll check with them to see if they will cover it.

Thanks again!

Guido, you wrote:

>Hey Afshin. If you have low miles on your 500, You can wait on the timing chain. I'd replace the rail and chain and tensioner about 85K.

That soon? I had not planned on doing mine until the mid-90s at the earliest. But this car has zero startup rattle, zero racka-racka sound, and generally seems to be perfectly behaved.

>Its not a bad idea changing out the hoses. I havn't change the rears. I did the fronts, at 84K with a new waterpump,waterpump bypass,upper and lower rad hoses.

Water pump bypass? Would that be a valve to allow coolant
to still flow around a seized pump?

A good idea, sounds like. Can you give details and part suggestions?

s/b

The most important hoses to do are the 2 rear ones, IMHO:)

I really do't see any of the front hoses going through the torture those rear ones must see-I'd planned to change them, but waited too long
:mad:

Michael,

Would you happen to have part numbers of the hoses we talked about?

Thanks!

I just changed my coolant again-this time I simply followed the instructions on the service CD, and did not remove/disconnect any hoses.

One thing I learned-if you don't replace or unhook all the hoses, and you don't extract coolant as I did with my Topsider, then you're only draining maybe 75-80% of the coolant mix. After I drained the system, upon refilling with only 1 1/2 gallons of coolant (should need close to 2 gallons for a 50/50 mix) and a LOT of bottles of Poland Spring bottled water, I found the concentration to be well above 50%, meaning a fair amount of coolant was in there (and it was 45% coolant/55% H2O). So, I've begun extracting all the coolant out of the expansion tank and refilling with water only. Then I run the car at operating temp for a while, let it cool, then test it again. I've done this thrice, and it's STILL above 50%.

Every time I decrease the % of coolant in the system, the car's temp drops a degree or two. It's running at no higher than 90 now; I'll keep everyone posted

Michael,

When you were changing coolant, did you drain the coolant from the engine block by taking the drain plugs out on both sides of the engine? Is it necessary?

Regards,

Marek

I changed my coolant twice, and both times I opened the block drains. Yes, I believe it is necessary...a LOT of coolant is in that block!