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#1
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500E - Timing chain time
Based on the commentary I got from this board, I took my 1 year old (to me), 147k '92 500E to the mechanic and told them to inspect the timing chain (and do the oil filter check valve, which still has them perplexed). They found broken upper rails and other assorted mischief.
So I'm now doing a $2,000 replacement of chains, rails and tensioner job. I'm also putting brand new Firestone SZ50's on. I hope that I'll be good aside from general maintenance for a couple of years. Question - anything else I should have them do while they're in there? |
#2
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Have them check the oil tubes which lubricate the lifters. They tend to break and cause a "click click click" when the engine is running. If you don't hear the noise then I wouldn't worry about it.
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Afshin Current: 02 C32 AMG Previous: 92 500E 84 190E 2.3 5 Spd |
#3
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Ouch
I let my mechanic talk me into not only doing the chain, upper rails and tensioner, but also the lower rails. The total job at a labor rate of $72 an hour is coming out to about $2,400. The mechanic said that he can see the car has otherwise been well-maintained and that after this, the engine will be good for another 100k miles or more (currently have 147k).
There is a big piece of broken rail resting on top of the chain inside one of the housings, so it was fortunate that I took the preventive step to have them go in and check the timing chain assembly. Does $2400 sound too high? At this point, the money is sunk because I've approved the work, but I thought I'd ask. This forum has been very helpful. |
#4
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$2400 may be a tad high but so what...you wouldn't want to have PEP Boyz do it to save a few hundred beans! You'll be all set after this...guides, rails, etc. all sort of has to be done while he's in there and at that mileage. Maybe he could upgrade the oil check valve too in the filter housing...part is like $10 with an hour or so labor to do...if it hasn't been done already. Also, have him drop the oil pan to see if any broken part chunks have fallen down there too.
The parts themselves are like several hundred bucks (actually just under $500 for all the stuff)...as I recently found out; my cars got 135K and is scheduled to get the T-chain come springtime. It only just started to rattle a bit on start-up...you are lucky to get 147K on yours. |
#5
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They found lots of broken pieces in the oil pan. So I clearly needed to have this done, even though I was hearing no warning signs. I just decided to have them go in and measure stretch in the timing chain and tell me what they found because I wasn't sure whether the previous owner had done a chain or not.
I am having great trouble making my mechanic understand this whole oil filter check valve thing. I've made printouts of comments from these forums, one of which referenced a service bulletin. Does anyone know what part # they need? Perhaps that will help them figure out what needs to be done. That said, I don't have any wacka-wacka sounds. |
#6
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Yeah see the following
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#7
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Based on my files, the service bulletins referred to for the "racka-racka" syndrome typically encountered on cold start up are as follows:
AF05.00-U-1300AG and AF05.20-P-1400EG AF05.00-U-1300A: The first refers to the oil passage tubes which if they fail can cause a ticking lifter noise. This will typically be noticeable hot or cold. They get brittle and fail with age. I would spend the $160 for the parts (I think its 8 per head for a total of 16 at about $10 ea.) while I was in there and be done with it. AF05.20-P-1400EG: The second refers to the oil filter return valve. Fault is described as short loud rattling noise audible during cold start only on left or rigt side in the camshaft adjuster. It can be heard from inside the car, but is impossible to ignore if you crank the car with the hood up. The correction is posted in Procedure 18-1100 (RA1823-1100 pages 1-6 (housing removal) and Procedure 18-1120 (RA18.1323-1120 page 1 (check valve removal) The part no. for the early 92 models should be 119.184.01.30 and requires gasket replacement part no. 119.184.02.80 and you may wish to replace the rubber plug no. 116.187.00.55 (see figure shown on page RA.1322-1120/1) the rubber plug is behind the hex head plug/screw for the lower tube which has no part no. shown. The screw is part #000908014008. Note the screw and the rubber plug are shown on the dealership digram DiamlerChrysler AG - Electronic Parts Catalogue (EPC) 119.974/18/045/B18045000123 Engine Lubrication/Oil Filter page ? Pcterm30? as part no. 41 (rubber plug 116.187.00.55) and part no. 44 (metal screw plug 000908014008) The oil pump check valve replacement is procedure 18-2150 but I do not have a bulletin number for it. Good Luck.
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dwight |
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