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#1
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Changing brakes/rotors on SL500, difficult?
OK I am a cheapo and want to avoid the $1000 estimate the dealer gave me for changing the brakes and rotors on my 96SL500, that is for front and rear. I have changed many brakes in the past, but not really anything recently. I can take a pair of shoes and rotors off, spread the calipers, and replace everything.
What I want to know is if there is anything special I should be concerned with due to it being a SL500? Is this more difficult than normal? Can I get this done with a socket set and a caliper spreader? Or is it something I should allocate to the dealer or a tire shop?
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2007 Corvette Convertible Torch Red 1996 MBz SL500 2008 Harley Davidson Night Rod Special |
#2
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Spinedoc,
I have the same problem and was quoted by the dealer as $720. I called Phil at FastLane and the rotor and pads cost $100. My problem is exactly like you. I want to know how difficult it is to do the rotor and pad myself. I am afraid I screw something up and cost me even more $$. Wish someone has some sort of diagram showing you step by step procedure. Phil did tell me go to DIY of this forum and check out the procedures for the E-Class. But it did not show how to take the rotor off.
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95 R129 04 Infiniti G35.5 BS 10 X204 |
#3
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Spinedoc,
If you've done it on other cars the Benz will be a piece of cake! I think there is a pictorial on the DIY forum. The sample car isn't an SL, but all the Benzes I've had have been basically the same. I use an old brake pad to spread the calipers. I remove them one at a time, rotate them 90 degrees and pry them in the slot to push the pistons back. Make sure there is room in the brake reservoir for the returning fluid. Choose a good quality rotor and a good pad. You will need an allen wrench to release the screw that secures the rotor, some sockets and a nail set to punch out the caliper pins. Oh! Don't forget to order replacement sensor wires. Observe the routing of the wires and don't let them rub any metal when you install them. Keep the wires close to the pads or they may rub the WHEELS and cause false wear indications. (Does it sound like I've made that mistake?) Pads are a matter of preference. The world is still searching for a dustless pad that doesn't squeak and stops uner light pressure like the OEM pads. I have sworn off of the "Green Stuff" pads and the "Balo" rotors. I am now trying the "Textar Yellow Box" pads. I like the feel of the Textars, but I'd like a little less dust. Next I will try "PBR" or "PBR Deluxe" Good luck!
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02 S500 92 500SL 92 400E (Sold) 87 300E (Sold) 83 300D Turbo (Sold) 75 300D (Sold) 74 240D (Sold after 20 years) |
#4
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Thanx guys! I opted for the lazy method and just ordered the pads/rotors for much cheaper from tirerack, but had my local speed shop install them. Unfortunately tirerack sent me the wrong shoes, sigh...
God I am getting lazier with time, LOL! It's just difficult to allot that precious weekend to changing brakes like I used to do when I was in college. All told the brake job cost me about $450, much better than the $1000 the dealer quoted me!
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2007 Corvette Convertible Torch Red 1996 MBz SL500 2008 Harley Davidson Night Rod Special |
#5
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got off easy didn't you
Met a fellow driving a 98 Olds xx, which 'needed brake job.' Fellow was at Oreilly's buying parts after Dlr quoted him $1400! to do the brake job--turning rotors and rear drums, replacing pads and shoes, + hardware--not new rotors or rebuilding calipers etc.
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#6
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I used to DIY. But not on any expensive cars (and all mine are not cheap).
The reason is that there is always something you don't know... a technique, a part difference, a change in procedure... that only someone who does it every day will know about. Today I had my MB shop change my steering wheel ( to a wood wheel) and change the external mirrors. Seemd a simple enough job, but I knew enough not to touch it. When I talked to the mechanic who did it, I found I wouldn't have even been able to begin the job. They had trouble with the airbag, the mirror fitting and the wiring. And they are 30 year experts. So for some years now I have relegated everything complex or specialist - from tiling to car bits - to the experts. I concentrate on earning enough money to be able to pay them, instead of getting a saving by doing it myself. The other good thing about employing someone to do it is that you're keeping people knowledge-sharp and profitable in business. That's all part of a healthy economy. But I also acknowledge those who like working with car bits and who have the expertise to do it themselves. PS. Tomorrow my 18" AMG wheels arrive, and by the following day the SL should be shod. The sig photo below is only 48 hours away from being dramatically transformed! Ken Silver -------------- ~1993 SL500, glistening triple black, xenons: http://www.kensilver.com/SL ~1999 SLK 230 Kompressor, silver/black leather, CD, immaculate (my wife's) ~1999 Suzuki Grand Vitara. black & silver ~1991 Daimler, shiny grey/grey leather, best in country! ~ex 350SL, 230E, 280E, MX5 and a lot of other makes not nearly as nice.
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http://www.kensilver.com/newSLsig.jpg |
#7
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Ken, glad you went with the 18", you will not be dissapointed.
Can you list out the parts and labor costs of your steering wheel and the mirrors, just curious as I have always thought of doing this.
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2007 Corvette Convertible Torch Red 1996 MBz SL500 2008 Harley Davidson Night Rod Special |
#8
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My figures may not be typical, but here you are anyhow: Wood-rimmed wheel, 2000 model with airbag - cost 750 euro, 1 hour labor: "Removed airbag from steering wheel, removed wires, refitted new wheel and reprogrammed SRS light." Mirrors, 2000+ style - cost 350 euro the pair, 1 hour labor: "Removed and refitted mirrors, drilled, tapped and fitted new mirror screws." I bought these parts off the net, but would NOT do that again. I requested genuine parts in excellent condition. I got a genuine wheel with minor damage on the wood sections which I accepted thinking it could be fixed. Turns out to be a very expensive and complex repair, so I'm living with it. The mirrors were in my opinion copy mirrors, made in China (didn't find out about this until my paint shop pulled them apart). But they are externally excellent - no-one else including dealers and my local experts can see any difference. I have yet to get them wired up because the loom plug from my 93 model is different. As far as the change-out goes, both accessories have made a huge difference to the look of the SL, and I'm very pleased. The wood wheel gives an extra feel of luxury in the R129's somewhat spartan cockpit, and the mirrors make the car look 10 years younger At the moment the body looks bitsy because I don't have the AMG Sports body moldings fitted... so the body still has that blocky-looking shape that clashes with the rounded mirrors - a design no-no. I'm working on getting the genuine AMG bits now. Haven't yet been able to put on the 18" AMG wheels. One of the rims had shipping damage to the machined lip, and I have to send it back to the states and get a replacement. In the meantime three wheels fitted with tires are sitting in my garage, and I'm resisting the big temptation to put them on for a quick run down the road! I have a new 6 bar grill ordered (yep, from my dealer!) coming next week, and this should be one of the final finishing upgrade touches. I doubt whether I'll change out the interior door panels, but that's all that's left to bring the SL up to 2002 specs. Ken Silver -------------- ~1993 SL500, glistening triple black, xenons: http://www.kensilver.com/SL ~1999 SLK 230 Kompressor, silver/black leather, CD, immaculate (my wife's) ~1999 Suzuki Grand Vitara. black & silver ~1991 Daimler, shiny grey/grey leather, best in country! ~ex 350SL, 230E, 280E, MX5 and a lot of other makes not nearly as nice.
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http://www.kensilver.com/newSLsig.jpg |
#9
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Just what is a Nail Set?
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Exactly what is a "nail set"? And where can I get one for a 97 SL500 brake job? Thanks! |
#10
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Just picked up a sweet set of rims with brand new snows on Ebay for $1,000 Cdn. |
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