Parts Catalog Accessories Catalog How To Articles Tech Forums
Call Pelican Parts at 888-280-7799
Shopping Cart Cart | Project List | Order Status | Help



Go Back   PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum > Mercedes-Benz Tech Information and Support > Mercedes-Benz SL Discussion Forum

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 01-08-2005, 09:26 PM
dnthomas's Avatar
New MBOwner in 2002!
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Mississippi
Posts: 44
Question 1980 450SL - What to look for?

Hi folks,
I am the very proud owner of a 1991 560SEL, however, my dream car has always been the 450SL. My boss has a 1980 450SL with approx 100K miles on it. I have not seen it yet it but am told it is very clean and in excellent shape. It has been garaged for a number of years and only run occasionally. (started onece a month or so and driven around the block.)

I got very good tips of what to look for on these forums when I bought my 560, I am now asking for help from you guys in telling me what to look for in the SL's. Any particular maintenance or service issues with this model?

The boss says he has a new soft top and he also has the hard top. He has had a couple of rust spots completely repaired. We are in the deep south so rust does happen with the salty air. I am going to look at it in the next few days. Any information and suggestions would be much appreciated.

__________________
D. Thomas
1991 560SEL
New Owner as of 05/25/2002, first MB!
http://www.bellsouthpwp.net/d/n/dnt0512/1991.htmL
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 01-09-2005, 09:35 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Kingsburg, Ca.
Posts: 87
I'm not an expert, but I bought a 1980 450SL about a year and a half ago, and I can share with you the problems I've had. Mine too was in relatively good shape, especially the interior. I purchased it w/ 92k miles on it, so the mileage is about the same as yours.

I'd say the biggest thing to look at is the AC. I bought the car from my grandpa who lives in a cool place and never used the AC. First summer here I found out it didn't work. $2300 later, it was fixed.

I've had a problem with the antenna not wanting to raise up all the way. To fix it right, it costs about $300.

I do from time to time find little areas of rust that I never saw at first.

The only other problem I have experienced was a clogged fuel injector. Got it fixed for a very reasonable $65.

I've found that the car really likes to be driven. It runs better when I drive it regularly. The clogged injector probloem surfaced after the car sat for about 6 weeks during winter. I try and drive it at least once a week now.

Hope this helps a little.
__________________
Chris Meyer
1980 450 SL (99k miles)
2003 Honda Odyssey (Family Hauler)
2006 BMW 330i (daily driver)
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 01-09-2005, 12:32 PM
BusyBenz
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
I also have an 80 450SL, dark blue with lt. blue/gray interior. My car has seen a lot of lifes experiances for a 25 year old car than most! My car has a lot of rust, and well over 200K! I have looked at a number of older SL's, like mine, and most all seem to age and rust in the same way and same places.
Even the soft top plastic windows crack in the same place!

Rust can be heavy behind the drivers and passengers front wheel well's to rocker panels and travel to jack ports. Also the same with rear wheel well's to rocker panels and jack ports too!

Another area to look is the top of both front fenders, just above the head light assembly, they rust from inside out there. Trunk area around the battery is another place to check.

Bad trunk seals, roof seals, door and window seals can be reasons for rust too! Pull the thick foam rubber floor mats up and look under there, if moist, there are leaks! Also look under the carpeted plywood floor lid behind the rear seats, I found large puddles of water there in mine! Smell the inside of the car, if it smells like mold, it's probably leaking, or has leaked.

The only thing I'm aware of mechanically are a few items, one having to do with a weak area in the sub frame as you can read up on that here, and also the timing chain should be checked for elongation, or stretch.

In my opinion, these are highly vulnerable cars to the weather and should be garaged when not in use, or at least cover them with a leak proof cover!

My car is under going major refit and repair, doing it myself. I really love the car but plan to use it sparingly! They are gas pigs too!

Good luck......... BB

Last edited by BusyBenz; 01-09-2005 at 05:20 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 01-10-2005, 08:15 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Wilmington, DE
Posts: 205
I, too, have an '80 450SL. Bought mine 3 years ago when it had 70K miles on it, no rust, and a very nice interior. But, like many cars that are 20+ years old, it needed some things done. As mentioned, all the rubber seals in the doors and around windows needed to be replaced, as did the soft top, the blower motor, plug wires, filters, etc. It now has 80K miles and runs and looks GREAT. It is garage kept and never gets rained on. I took it on a 1500 mile trip shortly after I bought it and aside from the fact that it gets crappy gass mileage, it was a fun and comfortable ride. I am considering selling it in the spring to buy a Corvette. Best of luck
__________________
I asked the Lord for everything so that I could enjoy life. He gave me life so that I could enjoy everything!
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 01-12-2005, 09:14 AM
dnthomas's Avatar
New MBOwner in 2002!
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Mississippi
Posts: 44
This is what I found

I looked at the car last night finally. It has been garaged and the body looks really good. It is covered by some dust and sawdust as he has building some shelves in the 3 car garage. I wiped some off and the finish looks real good. It appears that it will look really good cleaned up/ However, it has not been driven in a year or so, it has been cranked but not driven. It has 103k miles on it. It has a new soft top and the bill shows it cost $3600. The hard top looks good. He advised me that he had it painted and the rear quarter, where the gas tank is, replaced as it had some rust. Everything looks straight but I am concerned as to what problems I might have since it has not been driven.

I am thinking of offering him $4000 for it "as is", anyone have opinions on value. I figure there is a fair amount of work I will have to do to clean it up and make sure it is a reliable daily driver for me.
__________________
D. Thomas
1991 560SEL
New Owner as of 05/25/2002, first MB!
http://www.bellsouthpwp.net/d/n/dnt0512/1991.htmL
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 01-12-2005, 10:47 AM
Steve Gutman's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Chicago, IL
Posts: 492
$4000 would be a good price. I have seen a lot of themn for around $6000. It sounds like a winner! These cars can develop expensive problems so be prrepared, just in case. My Euro 500 has eaten up $7500 in parts alone without the steering box, a new top or A/C that could all use replacement. I do all the labor (with love) and tend to replace old body rubber at the drop of a hat. I still need to do some body seals and a lifter or two. I have 125,000 miles and drive it year round. I have snow tires on it for the winter. Good luck.
__________________
Steve
1985 Mercedes 500SL Euro (Gray market)
1995 BMW 520i Euro (Gray market)
1992 BMW 525it Wagon
1994 Honda Del Sol Si
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 01-12-2005, 04:27 PM
BusyBenz
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
I would agree too that $4000 is great if he'll let it go for that! One thing you mentioned has me wondering, he had rust repaired! I'd look this car over real well, as I mentioned in the above post areas prone to rust.

It all depends on how you drive it, and how well you keep maintenance. Do you have a lead foot, like to hit the shift points hard, race the engine up near red-line just to hear it roar, careless to pot holes, brake hard, turn hard, ya! it'll become a shop queen, and keep your wallet sterilized!

I have always driven my cars light and easy and have never blown a tranny, or engine, or any major repairs that I can ever recall. I always drive a car to 300K before going on to the next usually, that from over the past 33 years.

If you buy, (my opinion) change all fluids to synthetic, including tranny, engine, rear differential, and break fluid too. Have the wheel bearings re-packed. Because these engines have aluminum heads, flush the engine of green anti-freeze and replace with MB low ph pink anti-freeze.

There are many ways to avoid expensive repairs, I've just listed my way about doing such and I know it works for me and can work for anyone.

Hope you get it..........BB
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 01-13-2005, 10:51 AM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Northern Calif. (Fairfield Area)
Posts: 2,225
If he'll take $4000, the price is reasonable, but I'd shy away from the deal because you are not dealing at arm's length. He is your BOSS. I try not to mix those situations. Also if you are really in the market for a 107 chassis, I'd suggest a 380SL. The climate control is better. It gets far better fuel mileage and has more power.

Peter
__________________
Auto Zentral Ltd.
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 01-17-2005, 11:00 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Missouri Ozarks near MountainView MO
Posts: 107
Talking They ARE worth it!!!

2 years ago I bought a 1980 450SLC 5.0 (the euro with a 5.0 ltr engine) I bought it for $3950 with a little over 250K klicks on it. I have driven it less than 300 miles and am currently at $9000+ and going strong. See my postings regarding euro headlights, auxillary air valves, blower motors etc.
The car was a Tampa FL car that had been sitting for a period of between 1.5 and 3 years. I've never been able to find out the exact amont of time but Iwas told it was run up "occasionally".
Any way, much of what I ran into has been covered in your responses. Particularly with respect to rust. I would underline the advice to replace all fluids, including any gasoline that has been sitting in the tank. Bottom line, VARNISH is one of your car-that-has-been-sitting's greatest potential problems. Also vacume lines(leaks), (get the ether guys) and the fuel delivery system in general, including the intake manifold gaskets and the port sleeves (these are rubber and can deteriorate. I had to rework almost the entire intake and fuel system (ouch) Good Luck these honeys ARE worth it!!!
1980 450SLC 5.0
1988 300SE
1988 560SEC
1988 Lincoln TownCar
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 01-19-2005, 12:25 PM
sutekh's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Salt Lake City, UT
Posts: 29
I'd look for one a few years older personally. As already mentioned, the climate controll servo unit introduced in '77 is a terrible design. I'm not sure I agree with the post about the 380 having more power though (The 380 has 155HP and a 1980 450SL has 160), but neither are powerful by any stretch of the word. Also, the 380, unless previously converted, has major timing chain problems. Take a look at this article for some recommendations and an indepth look at the changes made over the years:
http://fly.hiwaay.net/~gbf/107/rt.html

I owned a 1980 450SL for about 4 years myself during which time I spent nearly twice what I paid for it on restoration (had a great time doing it though). I mention that only because I've noticed (here and elsewhere) that some seem to feel that acquiring these cars for more than a few thousand is folley. Granted, they're older cars, but I wouldn't have sold my 450 for anything less than it was worth and most people selling anything more than a project car wouldn't either. The least expensive SL is always the one that costs the most.
__________________
-- Aaron

'87 MB 560SL - 45K
'80 MB 450SL - 180K (Sold )
The rest: '83 BMW 533i - 286K, '04 Ford F150 - 7K, '99 Yamaha YZF-R1 - 10K

Last edited by sutekh; 01-19-2005 at 04:22 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old 01-19-2005, 04:35 PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Northern Calif. (Fairfield Area)
Posts: 2,225
As has been pointed out, the climate control bought from Chrysler was a poor design, it is still cheaper to repair than than flap control system on the early 450s. That system worked by fully opening a hoy water valve mounted on the fire wall as soon as one of the two heater control levers on the dash was moved. Amount of heat to each side of car was controlled by flaps mechanically attached to the levers. That was fine when the cars were new, but as time took its toll, the soft material that held the hinge side of the flap in place deterioated. When you moved the flap to reguate the heat, you realized the flap was bound up. The only fix to the best of my knowledge is to replace the heater box if they are still available. THe dash must be removed to do this and since it has been exposed to the elements as long as the box, it starts breaking apart too. THe whole job can cost you as much as the value of the car. The 380s didn't have these problems and I'm sure most of the simplex chain models have been converted to duplex by now. Although I've never cared for the 107s and have only owned one, I'd still recommend the 380.

Peter
__________________
Auto Zentral Ltd.
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 07-17-2022, 06:15 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2022
Posts: 2
450 sl

The new proud owner 1980 450sl roadster. Needing a starter.
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 07-17-2022, 06:34 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2022
Posts: 2
The starter drags and makes a racket when starting, also starts a lil hard. Thinking bad gas with a bad starter is the culprit. And its my honer to be amungst yall. Ty for all yey help in advance.

Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On




All times are GMT -4. The time now is 05:32 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2024 Pelican Parts, LLC - Posts may be archived for display on the Peach Parts or Pelican Parts Website -    DMCA Registered Agent Contact Page