Hard Top

what is the cost for replaceing all the seals on the hard top?? (the rubber) Dennis

Seals will cost about $150 .... Labor???

I think you buy them one at the time, not a kit??? Dennis

[Trond.N]

tryed e-bay ?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2474859649&category=42611

Originally Posted by DENNIS

I think you buy them one at the time, not a kit??? Dennis

Adsitco.com list front seal, windshield to roof...$35.10 Rear $44.10 and each side seal also $35.10 x 2 $70.20 total $149.40

[Strife]

My experience with seals:

The seals for the hardtop are extremely easy to do, maybe the only even slightly tricky part is getting the corner between the roof and windshield pillar. I used non-MB seals and they were great.

The windshield pillar seals are very nasty. I used Genuine MB. I've been told that you can tell non-MB by the lack of cloth/fuzzies on them. Having more than one pair of hands available helps. Removing the brightwork on the sides of the windshield is required.

The Door seals are very easy. I used genuine MB. I've been told that there are no third-party door seals for an 86+ SL. There is a very significant but inobvious difference between pre-and post-86 doors. These seals are VERY expensive. You won't see 86+ seals on eBay.

The soft top front seal was easy, non-MB. The vertical seal was easy, I got a non-MB seal with "fuzzies". The ones along the roof, however, I still don't have adjusted quite right. I might blame the manufacturer on this one. The back seal I have but haven't done yet.

The ONE seal I would definitely stick with MB on is the one for the soft top hatch. I had a nightmare with a non-MB part, and threw out $50; I got a real MB part (about $85) and it just fell in place. WARNING: Changing this gasket MAY change the delicate alignment of the latch, etc.

I think that the deterioration of this (hard rubber) seal contributes to rust. This was the ONLY place on my car that had any rust. I did get rid of the rust before doing the seal, though.

Trunk seal: Easy and cheap. Not having a good seal there: very, very expensive.

I used SPARING amounts of a black German adhesive. Read the directions; the idea is to let it dry just a bit before actually applying the seal. It is VERY messy. Have cleanup materials prepared and make sure that those cleanup materials won't hurt the finish of your car (goo gone is OK, as far as I can tell).

Don't forget the white plastic gasket around the top locator holes on the windshield cowl. They are cheap and easy to replace (tip: put in warm water first). But they turn to crap quickly. Mine turned yellow in ONE Kentucky summer. I'd give them a month in Florida. Buy two or three sets. Good at what they do, and cover up any dents in that area you may have. Ive seen a few SL's with these just flat missing, so maybe a lot of people don't even know that they belong there.

I had dents that could not be covered up by those gaskets; I replaced the stainless cowl top. GOD, what a @#$#$^%^#. Cracked my windshield, too.

Thanks for all the great input, I am in Florida and drive with the top off alot,i am going to re-do both tops in time, Dennis