1980 SL in local junkyard with euro's, anyoner want them?

[WANT '71 280SEL]

It's a 1980, so I figure a 450SL? It's a 107 chasis. The engine is gone and the ACC servo's been bypassed, but would anyone like any easy to remove parts? I can't recall what all's there but it does have nice euro's on it without any major cracks. Would anyone be interested at $150? Please respond here so others will see when they're gone.

Thanks
David

[Strife]

I'm not sure if this car has a thermometer in the dash, but if it does, I'd like the sensor behind the front license plate (and about 6" of leads from it). This comes off with a 4-7mm socket, I think. Are there bumpers on it? What kind of condition are they in?

[WANT '71 280SEL]

I don't think a 1980 would have the temp display would it? It has bumpers on it but they're federal.

Thanks
David

I'm looking for a switchover valve for the ACC at the passenger's feet on the firewall. There are 4 side-by-side. Comes off with removal of under-dash panel and one phillips screw.

Rich Mayer
82 500 SL

[chiwanga]

I want the bumpers if they are good. Please give me a call if you can.

[ljmauricio]

Chiwanga, I have a set of US bumpers if that's what you're looking for. Very good condition.

[WANT '71 280SEL]

I went this morning and got the euro headlight wiper setup that I needed but I asked the guy at the counter how much for the headlights and he said $100 a piece. They look up to see what they are list, he said $600 new. I never told him they were euro or anything, he just said $600 new so I pay $100. I didn't get them because I know he's trying to rip me off. Should have said Saturn, not MB.

Thanks
David

[Strife]

If they were in REALLY good shape, this would not be a ridiculous price. I would get the connectors with them, though (the other end from the wiring harness in the car).

Note that I had a very bad experience with a set in "needing a little TLC" condition, which wound up costing me more than new ones to rebuild. If the reflectors are very rusty, just walk away. If they are not TOO bad, they can be rechromed, but even this is not optimal. In Europe, those reflectors are not cheap; in the US, they are harder to find than grizzly bear tonails. Examples of costs of the parts you CAN get here with only minor difficulty (I buy a lot of parts over the net and know of only ONE supplier who sells these items)

Side markers - $40 ea (w/gaskets)
Lenses - $40 ea (no gaskets)

[c107]

I was able to retrofit a 560SL outside temperature gauge into my '80 SLC.

The wiring diagram for the gauge is listed on the 107 service manual CD. The gauge needs:

12 Volts Power
Ground
Power for the light bulb/dimmer
Line for the temperature probe.

On a 560SL this all comes as two nice plug-in connectors but I had to improvise. I just soldered the wires on the gauge directly.

You can buy new temperature sensor wires from any of the online shops (part # is P4025-50427... about $60). The part number for the gauge itself is 107-542-00-27. Caliber motors has a new one for $247.64, but used ones show up occasionally on ebay. I paid $45 for mine.

The wire for the temp sensor is quite long so it was easy to just run it around any convenient place (I wound up getting through the firewall through a rubber grommet on the far side of the driver's seat).

I used the radio power for the 12 volts (so it's only on with the key on) and tapped into a climate control bulb for the dimmer.

After getting out the vent, the gauge just fits inside by friction.

What I can't figure out is how to actually open the gauge. I'd like to paint the needle the same orange that the instrument panel is now (the used one is yellow) and also put a new bulb in there while I'm at it.


Steve

No, my 80 sl didn't come with outside temp, but there is a place for it?

Dont overlook the sun visors too. New I've heard they can sell for as much as $360 each, yes you heard right! The little plastic clips that go with them also are $36 ea.

[Strife]

I've considered buying the outside sensor, but that's a lot of money for a thermistor! (mine was just dead, always reading 70 degrees). Wiring it is a PITA, so I would just splice the new one and old one together, as others have done. You can buy a $2.00 thermistor at Radio shack and splice it in but the results are not good because it's curve is different and you will get bogus temperatures. The only good it will do is prove that your meter is probably good, in that changes in temperature will move the needle. I bought several kinds of thermistors from an electronics supplier to experiment with and found a combination that gives me good results from 60-95 degrees, which is about all my car sees.