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  #1  
Old 07-25-2005, 11:06 PM
tivoliman's Avatar
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Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: New Jersey
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Please help with the "Rattle"

560SL 1986, 175,000

The passenger door has a load rattle, but is only heard when the door is shut.

I have taken the inside cover off, and the plastic, only to be presented with a maze I could not navigate.

Are there pictures I should use "as a map?"

Are there things I should remove that will make accessing other parts of the door reasonable?

Thanks for the suggestion.

This is a great car - a blast to drive.

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Thanks for the help
Bill Fisher

'86 560SL (186K) - Now a 'classic' : Registered as an Historic Vehicle
02 E430 in the stable
'14 LS460 (Lexus)
- - - - -
'95 E420 (198K) found a new home
'99 E320 (80K) (gave it's life for me as we hit a bumper)
'95 E420 (231K) Sold to a happy buyer, new to Mercedes
'90 300E (65K) Sold to an Mercedes Lover
'92 190E (215K) - retired to the salvage yard
'93 500SEL (214K) - Moved to another family, still runs like a young pup
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  #2  
Old 07-25-2005, 11:43 PM
halman2228's Avatar
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Location: Houston TX
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Can't Help Myself...

TIV -

Have you tried running at highway speed with the door OPEN?

On a less insultive note, there isn't that much inside the door panel that can "rattlle". I assume you have tried tightening everything visible/reachable. Without a better description of the actual noise, I'm only guessing that you have a window trying to liberate itself from its rails or guides. Available "maps" I can't help you with but, for the most part, some sockets and a flashlight will probalby help you find the noise.

And yes... "blast to drive" - who gives a rat's a** about a little rattle here and there anyway when we are cruising...? (they are not exactly factory new anyhow, are they?...)

Cruise til ya can't stand it..
(best regards)
Kevin
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Stable (in order of acqusition):
'84 500SL, 280SEL (Euros)
'77 280SE. '90 560SEL
'79 450SEL 6.9,
'95 C280 (totalled by daughter 8/07)
'81 280SL (rescued) '88 300CE
'86 560SEC '95 C36
'01 CL55

DD's: '04 S500 4Matic (SWMBO)
'04 F150 Crew
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  #3  
Old 07-26-2005, 10:43 AM
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Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: new jersey
Posts: 181
I have the same rattle. It is still there but these are some of the things I did while investigating:
a) when i took off the door skin and plastic, I found 2 screws laying at the bottom of the door cavity. with a shop light and operating the window up & down, I found the two places they came from. tightened them up and also tightened every other screw I could get to. note that some are accessible with the window up, and some with the window down.
b) I fully greased the channels where the window rides and all the grearing spots on the window crank
c) I noticed the door lock wire has play in it where it can clank against the door frame. I should have wrapped foam around it, I'll go back and do it this winter.
d) the door itself is not snug against the body when closed. there is about 3/8" of movement if you lean against the door. the drivers door does not have this looseness. I don't know how to remedy this because I don't see any adjustment possible on the door latch. someone else recommended stuffing a rag and then closing the door. then take a ride and see if the door rattles. if the rag stops it then the door is loose.

good luck
Jack
85 380sl
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  #4  
Old 07-26-2005, 08:54 PM
tivoliman's Avatar
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Location: New Jersey
Posts: 396
thanks

Tan Man - I'll take your suggestions and yes - I may have had a bolt loose on the floor before, and ran out of time replacing it.

Thanks all for the suggestions. This Saturday - the car and I will get personal - removing the door components.
__________________
Thanks for the help
Bill Fisher

'86 560SL (186K) - Now a 'classic' : Registered as an Historic Vehicle
02 E430 in the stable
'14 LS460 (Lexus)
- - - - -
'95 E420 (198K) found a new home
'99 E320 (80K) (gave it's life for me as we hit a bumper)
'95 E420 (231K) Sold to a happy buyer, new to Mercedes
'90 300E (65K) Sold to an Mercedes Lover
'92 190E (215K) - retired to the salvage yard
'93 500SEL (214K) - Moved to another family, still runs like a young pup
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  #5  
Old 07-28-2005, 02:07 AM
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Location: Brisbane, Australia
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My experience with door rattles in a 107 SL has been the same culprit on two different vehicles. The guideblocks in the bottom corners of the glass that both isolate from and guide the glass up and down the steel channels come loose and fall off. I found one in the bottom of the door, on the other car it had long since vanished (and I had to fabricate one out of nylon because they cant be purchased as a seperate part). They are glued to the glass with a urethane type rubber and I guess they fail with age. This leads to some pretty significant rattling as the glass drifts back and forth and hits the metal channel. I would guess that you could be unlucky enough to shatter the door glass if you slammed the door if this problem isnt rectified.

Remove the door trim and look in the bottom of the door ... if you find a die cast metal block in there thats the problem. To reattach it is quite a process as the door glass needs to come out. But then again if you have removed the door trim you have already done about 40% of the work so you may as well finish the job.
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  #6  
Old 01-14-2006, 02:14 AM
JohnTenCA
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Los Gatos, CA
Posts: 2
Quote:
Originally Posted by dpatterson
My experience with door rattles in a 107 SL has been the same culprit on two different vehicles. The guideblocks in the bottom corners of the glass that both isolate from and guide the glass up and down the steel channels come loose and fall off. I found one in the bottom of the door, on the other car it had long since vanished (and I had to fabricate one out of nylon because they cant be purchased as a seperate part). They are glued to the glass with a urethane type rubber and I guess they fail with age. This leads to some pretty significant rattling as the glass drifts back and forth and hits the metal channel. I would guess that you could be unlucky enough to shatter the door glass if you slammed the door if this problem isnt rectified.

Remove the door trim and look in the bottom of the door ... if you find a die cast metal block in there thats the problem. To reattach it is quite a process as the door glass needs to come out. But then again if you have removed the door trim you have already done about 40% of the work so you may as well finish the job.
I have the exact same problem with my 1973 450SL. I have one guide and the other is gone. What knid of adhesive did you use to reattach the guides?

Thanks,
JohnTenCA
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  #7  
Old 01-15-2006, 04:44 PM
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Location: Brisbane, Australia
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John,
I just used silicone windscreen sealant. Its available in small packs at your local auto parts supplier for repairing leaks. It has the advantage that it bonds to the glass like you would not believe so its perfect for this job. It does take 24 hours to cure so you need to tape the block in position and leave it - ie you cant put it back in the car straight away.

Regards,
Daryl
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'71 350SL auto
'73 350SL manual
'98 528i (yeah I know but at least its German)

'71 250CE (sold)
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  #8  
Old 01-16-2006, 01:53 AM
88Black560SL
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: CT
Posts: 3,510
Yes I have the same problem, The right rear guide has come off. Does anyone have a measurement from the bottom of the window of where this should be placed. A picture would be helpfull.

John Roncallo
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  #9  
Old 01-16-2006, 02:09 AM
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Location: Brisbane, Australia
Posts: 82
Bottom of the guide should be roughly flush with the bottom edge of the glass. The location of this is not as precise as you might expect - the limitation being where the top of the guide is relative to the door shell when the window is fully up.

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'73 350SL manual
'98 528i (yeah I know but at least its German)

'71 250CE (sold)
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