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1991 500SL dropped 4 cyl
My SL started missing really badly. I smell unburned fuel, and the check engine light came on. I suspect it is a bad cap, so I ordered a new bosch unit. I am usually working only on diesel MB, so I do not have a whole lot of experience with gas. If you guys can give me any other pointers, I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks
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Andrew Villasenor 805-720-5057 1984 300D turbo 5-speed manual(daily driver) ALL MY DIESELS RUNNING WVO Everything is for sale for the right amount Ebay Store |
#2
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It seems like you are going down the right road with looking at the ignition. If the CEL came on it is likely due to misfire. Don't run it as you will ruin your converters and those are a lot of dollars to replace. After the cap replacement check the wires and the plugs. It could be an arc that caused the limp mode to kick it, that is a safety mode that the computer will shut down half the engine to protect it. On 95 and newer it will actually shut the fuel off too, but not on earlier models with the fuel distributor, just the sparks get shut down. So check all the ignition out, if no problem there, look at your wiring and coils, then get the computer tested. There are plenty of diagrams on our website for you to review on engine controls.
Good luck! Brian
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Brian W. Heitman www.MBCA.org/northtexas Join MBCA!!! |
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Misfiring
My 92 500 SL started misfiring some time ago. It would do it mostly when it was at full temperature and not all the time. They traced it to a bad rotor. Actually two bad rotors. The caps were fine. Car runs like a bear now. The early 500's were noted for bad rotors and the caps were not much better.
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roadkingmike@aol.com Coast Aero Support Services, LLC '92 MB 500 SL '01 BMW 525i Sport '98 Harley Davidson RoadKing '74 BMW 3.0 CSi - Gone to a good home |
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Ok, I did some diagnostics, and this is what I have found so far. I knew one bank was not firing. I pulled the center plug wire from the cap and found the car would not start when Pull the drivers side, so I know pass. side bank is the problem. I switched rotors, and still the same. I then switched caps, and still the same. I drove the car over to a shop, and on the way it had full power at times, and then it would start missing again. We will see what the mechanics says this week.
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Andrew Villasenor 805-720-5057 1984 300D turbo 5-speed manual(daily driver) ALL MY DIESELS RUNNING WVO Everything is for sale for the right amount Ebay Store |
#5
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Finally. It was a bad coil. what a PITA. Thanks for all of your help. Now the belt tensioner has failed and the car squeels like a little girl. Any suggestions other than paying $150 for a new part and replacing it?
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Andrew Villasenor 805-720-5057 1984 300D turbo 5-speed manual(daily driver) ALL MY DIESELS RUNNING WVO Everything is for sale for the right amount Ebay Store |
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Replace it.
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roadkingmike@aol.com Coast Aero Support Services, LLC '92 MB 500 SL '01 BMW 525i Sport '98 Harley Davidson RoadKing '74 BMW 3.0 CSi - Gone to a good home |
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Interesting. Your problem was intermittant? How did you determine it was a bad coil?
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#8
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My mechanic was going nuts, and so was I. I did my diagnostics, and could not find the problem. I eliminated the cap/rotor. He found that the car would still run when he cutt of spark to individual banks. he then checked the fuel pump and that was not it, so he replaced the coil and that fixed the problem. I think I will stick with my reliable diesels for now.
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Andrew Villasenor 805-720-5057 1984 300D turbo 5-speed manual(daily driver) ALL MY DIESELS RUNNING WVO Everything is for sale for the right amount Ebay Store |
#9
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4 cyl not firing
See my post on spark control module. When it is intermittent or shot, one bank does not get spark. DON'T run it except for a short test; my car almost burned.
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#10
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I would have diagnosed a tracking distributor cap and/or rotor too as with my 500 I have to treat these as service parts. Every 6 months I have to pull the caps, clean and reassemble - at 100GBP each, cleaning is the way ahead!
Just so happened this is to be carried out next week so she's be puring again shortly I'll bear your bad coil experience in mind... Lea
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'93 R129 500SL-32 '89 190E 2.6 - sold in 2002 http://antron.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/i...nature/Sig.jpg |
#11
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For those interested in distributor issues for cars upto '95:
Recently the car showed the classic signs of one bank misfiring so I carried out an inspection this evening. Here's what I found: After removing the caps several times over the last two years (after replacing both caps and rotors), I have found tracking from the outer contacts to the centre. The actual contacts and rotor look reasonably clean. My cap cleaning process has been to spray with WD40 and remove the tracking with a rag. Reseal. Repeat next 6 months! However, upon the last clean, I experimented on one of the caps and heavily roughed/scratched the surface directly beneath the tracking. After investigation this evening (around 6-9 months later) I found this modified cap to be fine but the other non-scratched cap showing heavy tracking again and the responsible party for rough running. Tonight I repeated the clean and scratching process on the remaining cap and I expect the car will be fine for significantly longer periods - only time will tell! Lea
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'93 R129 500SL-32 '89 190E 2.6 - sold in 2002 http://antron.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/i...nature/Sig.jpg |
#12
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$975 for upgrading coil, caps and rotors?
I have a 1991 500SL and my mechanic just told me I should upgrade the coil, caps and rotors....$975. Otherwise I might damage something else much more expensive (I'll find out what that is tomorrow when I go pick up the car). I asked him to hold off on that right now, just paid him $1,600 last week for work and another $1,500 this week for stuff. Getting this old dog up to speed, I bought it a month ago and lots of this work is preventive maintenance some is stuff like new fuel lines, filter, seat back adjustments, door latches, etc.....we're getting there.
What do you think/know about upgrading the coil, caps and rotors? $975? |
#13
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Upgrading, or just replacing? Is this guesswork or diagnosis? Even if it's good solid diagnostics you could probably justify replacing the mechanic just based on the price.
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#14
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Quote:
What price is reasonable? |
#15
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Parts should be about $350-400, maybe a couple hours to install. Actually I think you could do it in a couple of hours. I'd first want to make sure that it all needed to be done. You have a PM.
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