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107 Questions
Any one out there have any thoughts on these symptoms?
I ask thse questions because my last MB, a 1978 240D, dis not do this First I must state I think these are all unrelated. Oil Pressure guage, once the car is hot, it fluctuates, even when the car is at a steady idle. Temp Guage gose up and down, a lot. Once you start it, the temp rises as expected, up above the next to last mark, then drops down (Thermostat openning). but it then will do this off and on while driving. Do I need a thermostat? This may be related: After driving a few miles (3 or 4) and I get on a highway and up to speed (45 mph plus) I get a shudder/shake that varies with speed. It lasts about 5 miles, and then fades away, not to return until the car is thouroughly cooled (overnight) If Chuck Taylor reads this, this is where it happens: I drive neighborhood roads to Spout Run, and the shake starts nearMemorial bridge southbound on GW Parkway. It will stop somewhere just before Sleighters Lane in Alexandria. Sometimes, but not always, the brakes will be VERY spngy afterwards, and I need to pump them to get real stopping power. Stuck brake? Any thoughts and comments will be appreciated. |
#2
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1. What kind of oil are you using? I've found that the action of the gauge is very dependent on the oil grade. MAYBE your oil is a little lightweight? What year/how many miles are on the car?
2. The marks are supposed to represent 80-100C. Your thermostat is working, but maybe it is old and behaving strangely. It's a three state with "all closed", "the analog area between all closed and all open", and wide open. I had one that was stuck all open (not quite as bad as stuck closed, but still not good), so the engine would never go able the middle mark, even in the summer, and lower than that it cold weather. Newer 107's have higher normal temperatures than older ones; but I would be a little uncomfortable with hitting the third mark all the time, particularly at this time of the year. I'd replace the thermostat. It's also possible that the temperature sender is old and giving bogus readings; it's location depends on what year you have. Other than saying it requires immediate attention, I don't have any ideas on 3 and 4.
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86 560SL With homebrew first gear start! 85 380SL Daily Driver Project http://juliepalooza.8m.com/sl/mercedes.htm |
#3
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more info
Thanks for the help. It isn't hitting thd 3rd mark, just going above 100 degrees C, and coming back down. entertaining if nothing else. At least I know I can fix that fairly easily, ans inexpensively.
She is a 1982 380 with 120k. Taking her in for service in Jan, just hoping to get an idea before going in. |
#4
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I would say that you need a new master cylinder to fix your brakes.
On the thumping, it could be axle shaft, flex disc, center driveshaft bearing, transmission mount, or even a tire with a flat spot that gets better as the tire warms up and the pressure increases. Where are you going to take it for service?
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Chuck Taylor Falls Church VA '66 200, '66 230SL, '96 SL500. Sold: '81 380SL, '86 300E, '72 250C, '95 C220, 3 '84 280SL's '90 420SEL, '72 280SE, '73 280C, '78 280SE, '70 280SL, '77 450SL, '85 380SL, '87 560SL, '85 380SL, '72 350SL, '96 S500 Coupe |
#5
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Thanks.
ASC in Arlington. If you have a better suggestion, love to hear it. |
#6
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I like Silver Star in Vienna.
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Chuck Taylor Falls Church VA '66 200, '66 230SL, '96 SL500. Sold: '81 380SL, '86 300E, '72 250C, '95 C220, 3 '84 280SL's '90 420SEL, '72 280SE, '73 280C, '78 280SE, '70 280SL, '77 450SL, '85 380SL, '87 560SL, '85 380SL, '72 350SL, '96 S500 Coupe |
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