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  #16  
Old 02-25-2006, 08:29 AM
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anybody?
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  #17  
Old 03-26-2006, 02:43 AM
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Bought the tool in the week, so if anyone wants a copy then please PM me and we'll arrange something

Next week should see the barrel replacement, or maybe if the rain holds off today, I'll have ago.


Lea
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  #18  
Old 04-02-2006, 10:25 AM
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Quote:
Try it. It's the inner-most ring, not the outside one with key position dots. The outer ring will come off once the inner ring is unscrewed.
[EDIT]
You're quite right Steve, the tool removes the inner ring which subsequently removes the outer ring with the dots on. Interestingly I've never even noticed the dots! Also before I used the tool I hadn't appreciated which ring was going to be removed - a tool makes it dead easy.


So this afternoon I thought I'd revisit the instructions and prepare for the ignition lock and switch replacement - stop!

I re-read the instructions and found that should you also wish to replace the lock cylinder you need two new accompanying parts, the 'Protective Sleeve' Part No. A 210 460 07 97 and a matching 'Cover' A 202 462 04 23 (part number I think).

Seems like these parts make for one time operation and so all three need purchasing at once

But the switch itself can be replaced without the need for any other new components - another week's delay!
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'93 R129 500SL-32
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http://antron.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/i...nature/Sig.jpg

Last edited by LeaUK; 04-08-2006 at 05:54 PM.
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  #19  
Old 04-08-2006, 06:05 PM
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Replaced the electrical switch (only) today - took 2 hours. Could be done in 1 now I know how.

There was no reason to remove the IC and so I didn't, but mine is a RHD so this may have some effect.

I'll post further details tomorrow with plenty of pics :-)

Lea
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'93 R129 500SL-32
'89 190E 2.6 - sold in 2002

http://antron.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/i...nature/Sig.jpg

Last edited by LeaUK; 05-03-2006 at 06:42 PM.
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  #20  
Old 04-08-2006, 09:30 PM
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LeaUK,
I will be very interested to see your pics on the process. As you probably have read my latest development on the other forum.

I am charging the battery over night to see if that takes care of the problem. If not, your instructions will be my next saving grace. By the way, I got everything you sent me. Thanks a million!!!!
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  #21  
Old 04-09-2006, 02:51 AM
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Morning all - well evening to some too First things first, please note my car is RHD!

So here's how I changed my switch (note, just the switch not the mechanical lock mechanism itself).


1. Unscrew ignition inner trim ring from dash using claw type wrench - this subsequently releases the outer ring.



2. Turn to ignition to position 1 and make sure the steering wheel is nowhere near the steering locked position (not sure if this is necessary but I was being careful).

3. Removed cover below instrument panel




4. Remove the bar - makes life a little easier




5. Press in the safety catch (button in the middle) of the switch connector holder and slide in direction of lock cylinder. - see image above


6. Missing picture, but the protective black plastic sleeve (houses the lock and electrical switch see piccies below) has two holes through it nearest the metal steering lock, use a piece of u shaped 2mm brazing rod (or similar) to push the white plastic pins inwards (doesn't need much force or movement). Simultaneously wiggle the protective sleeve in the direction of the lock cylinder, then as it moves, remove the u tool and wiggle such that it becomes disconnected from the steering lock.

7. Making sure the sleeve is completely separated from the steering lock, turn the key to pos 0 and remove the key.

8. Detach control cable for the parking lock. Must have forgot to take a snap but you won't miss it if you look up at the ignition assembly - it's nearest your key and tightened to 5Nm.

For vehicles as of 04/95 this changes to a bayonet fitting

Look at the piccy below, the arrow shows one of the pins I mentioned earlier, the other is on the opposite side, imagine the protective sleeve still attached. The protective sleeve will become detached easily.

NOTE - DO NOT touch the steering lock part (see metallic part in the piccy below) once the sleeve has been removed - it MUST NOT MOVE! Tip, once the sleeve has been removed and if you're fiddling about rather close to the steering wheel ask a colleague to assist by holding the wheel (for that just in case feeling). I believe this isn't necessary but I wanted to be safe rather than sorry.

The sleeve will partially slide into the dash hole then (unless you have an extremely short key) and the whole sleeve can be fed down and inwards and subsequently removed.







9. The protective sleeve, switch and lock look like this - see the holes for the steering lock white pins .



and




10. Here's the switch after being removed from the protective sleeve. The small catch should be depressed and then the switch can be simply pushed outwards from the sleeve.




11. Replace electrical switch by pressing into sleeve until the locking detent locks into position, but note the end has to be rotated (screwdriver) and aligned with the steering lock bar that protrudes.



This was the most fiddly as the new switch took a little wiggling to get the alignment. Keep in position 1 when removing the switch and this made things a little easier. Then to replace, I changed to pos 0 but it didn't seem to matter. The white plastic cam (see picture above the last) needs to be removed from the old switch and placed on the new. Maybe it's available as a spare but I can't see it on the EPC so I suspect comes with the protective sleeve at 175GBP !!!!!


12. Replace key into lock and turn to position 1 (remember, the steering lock was left in pos 1). Replace protective sleeve assembly onto steering lock and repeat sequence above but in an opposite manor.

See the official guide attached, it may help.



Hope this is of use to some...

WARNING: Please don't blame me if it's not the same on your car or that by following this guide you trash your lock, I cannot be held responsible in anyway. Please use an authorised dealer if you feel it's not within your scope.

ALSO:

After writing this post I suddenly thought that this information could be used by criminals to help steel our precious cars, so please let me know your thoughts about removing it
Attached Files
File Type: zip Removing installation steering lock.zip (53.4 KB, 412 views)
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'93 R129 500SL-32
'89 190E 2.6 - sold in 2002

http://antron.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/i...nature/Sig.jpg

Last edited by LeaUK; 04-09-2006 at 03:34 PM.
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  #22  
Old 04-09-2006, 07:22 PM
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Thanks for the great write-up and pictures. I hope I never have to do this, but just in case, this will really help.
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  #23  
Old 04-10-2006, 02:26 AM
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Hi tecqboy

Cheers for the comments. Guess you think that this info will be OK to leave posted - reference the criminal stance?
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'89 190E 2.6 - sold in 2002

http://antron.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/i...nature/Sig.jpg
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  #24  
Old 04-10-2006, 11:08 AM
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If a professional thief targets a car, he already knows what it takes to steel it. Amatuers and kids steeling for a joy ride won't take the time or have the tools handy to bother with complex dis-assembly. We used to put steering wheel clubs on our cars, but the crooks just cut through the wheel with a gas powered saws-all in 10 seconds and rip it off. Even with the sophisticated electronic deterents on new cars, they are still being stolen. I don't think you need to be concerned about the info in your post. I am more concerned about parking my car someplace where the doors and fenders will get dinged than I am about it be stolen. I do live in a large metro area.
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  #25  
Old 11-23-2006, 03:56 PM
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Thanks for the WONDEFUL write up on the removal!!
The problem I have is the steering wheel lock has engaged!! Any ideas on how to fix this MAJOR problem.
An assistance would be most greatful. Thanks in advance. Gerard.
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  #26  
Old 11-23-2006, 06:10 PM
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Ouuuuuch, I have seen posts about this before, and correct me if I'm wrong but I think you are in trouble. Have a search as I'm sure someone else has been here and unfortunately suffered....

Cheers
Lea
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'89 190E 2.6 - sold in 2002

http://antron.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/i...nature/Sig.jpg
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  #27  
Old 03-28-2007, 06:11 AM
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Is anybody ho have this video ore link to it?

Would like to remove tumble cover from protective sleeve...
If possible.

Se pictures: 91 mod 300 SL-24 Removing tumbler from protective sleeve
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  #28  
Old 06-21-2008, 02:21 PM
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I know this is old thread, i just completed the switch on my 1992 w-140 all is well except the buzzer sounds when door is open and key removed,have to jiggle key to get it in ignition.
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  #29  
Old 04-06-2013, 06:49 PM
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some notes

i want to say that without this write up i would not have attempted this. i was able to successfully complete the process on both 300SL (primary and parts) cars.

first: as far as thieves utilizing this procedure, I was unable to depress the clasps on the housing with the key out or in the lock position; this implies that one cannot remove the ign this way with out the key.

second: the cover on the electric plug from the harness, when pulled toward the lock acts to keep the button depressed that allows the plug to come out. if the cover comes off you will need to press the button in while using your other hand to wiggle/pull/pry the plug out.

third: I was less than careful (not careless) and i had zero difficulty refitting the switch or with the column locking while the sw was removed. I think one would have to "try" to screw that up, but never can be too safe!!

forth: Replacing the switch did not correct my problem so I was a bit whizzed about that but I felt good about the rest of it
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