Removal of Ignition Switch / Barrel
 

I'm about (or was) to change the mechanical barrel and switch assemblies and notice that the video http://www.mbca.org/northtexas/repair_videos.htm (hopefully back soon) shows the complete dash having been removed first.

This now sounds to be a massive job involving steering wheel and passenger airbag removal!

So does anyone know if you can change the barrel and switch without complete dash removal, or how to go about this with the least removal work?

Also, I can't find any instruction across several electronic manuals when using search criteria of 'barrel, ignition, switch' etc - is the barrel/switch known as something different?


Cheers
Lea

do you still have wis working? you do not need to remove the dash to remove the lock assy. they show it in the video for illustration only. you will need to remove the knee bolster to gain access to the area

Found it!

It's called a 'lock cylinder' and/or 'steering lock' - unlike the user manual that naturally labels it the 'ignition switch' and the electrical schematics that refer to it as th ignition switch!

Apparently for my model you need to remove the IC for access and need a special tool to remove the black trim ring around the barrel..

We'll see how it goes.

Hi Carson - yep WIS OK and finally found the instruction.

It mentions the IC needs pulling and no mention of whole dash! :)

Do you think the special tool is really required?

Has anyone got the drawing for the special tool required for ignition barrel removal? It would be most appreciated.

description: Claw-type wrench for ignition barrel removal
part number: 210589000700

I'll make one for you in return :-)

Here's the tool:

http://www.startekinfo.de/etools/content/tool.jsp?toolno=210%20589%2000%2007%2000

:dark:

Looks simple enough if one has a lathe handy. Start with a deep socket of the proper ID. Machine to OD to fit. The slots could be cut with an end mill, but a good hack saw and file ought to do it. :beerchug:

Hmmmm...

That looks like an interesting doo-hicky. I would try to see if your local dealer or a local indy has the tool that you could borrow for a song. If not, good luck building that nifty little tool. I mean, look at all of the models it is used on. Surely one of the places has one you can borrow for a song.

Thanks for the comments chaps

Making one isn't the problem as I have a complete R&D machine shop (and skilled operators and engineers) available, however I need dims (thanks for the drawing but I have that one too ;-) )

MB want 50 quid which is a little on the expensive side considering the ignition switch was only 40 quid itself!

Lets' see if FastLane can help - I've posted an enquiry.

Cheers
Lea

I just did this repair in my 92 300SL. Remove the lower bolster under drivers side dash. Pull instument cluster. Once the bolster is out, just reach up under the dash and gently push the instrument cluster out. The ring in the dash around the key opening should be able to come out by hand, no tool required on mine. You'll need the shortest key you have. Once the inginition housing is detached from the steering lock, I had to pull the housing up from the hole in the dash where the instrument cluster was. It wasn't easy, and it took some well placed force. One issue is the with the key in the ignition, there isn't enough space to work the unit out. Regardless, I did not have to remove the steering wheel or dashboard. I didn't unhook the wires from the instrument cluster, I just pushed it over to the left side as far as the wires would stretch. By the way, I changed the ignition switch. All is good now.

Hi

Would you mind explaining a little further in how you did this without the tool?


Cheers
Lea

It's just a plastic threaded ring. I just placed my two thumbs on either side of the key and it came unscrewed without much pressure. Try it. It's the inner-most ring, not the outside one with key position dots. The outer ring will come off once the inner ring is unscrewed.

Great, thanks Steve

Will give it a go shortly and report back.

By looking at the tool I simply assumed that plenty of torque would be required, but I guess that's not always the case.

Cheers
Lea

When doing any work on the ignition lock and switch keep the key in postion 2 i.e. ignition on postion, otherwise the lock comes apart and the steering lock engages and the barrel cannot be refitted! This means fitting a new lock assembly ouch! On some models the wiring connector cannot be pulled off the switch unless postion 2 is selected. Cheers Linds

Ya'll got any pics? I am struggling with getting a tumbler out of a early 90's SL. How do you release the "catch" that keeps the black ring from unscrewing? I can turn the black ring but am unsure how to "release" it.