The proper oil for 119 engine

[pollockd17]

Lets hear the pros and cons on using synthetic in this engine as opposed to the standard recomended oil. Does it really benefit the engine?????

[cbdo]

Varying opinions on this one, for any of the MB engines. The link below will get you the results from searching this forum for "synthetic oil"; there are only 500 threads involved, so one might be able to synthesize some degree of consensus--or perhaps not...

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/search.php?searchid=635877

[Kebowers]

Nascar and Indy racing is as competetive as it gets. For MANY years, most of the racers used Texaco Havoline 10W30 (not synthetic) in their engines--and they never failed from lubrication related causes. They only turned 12-15K RPMS though.

Exxon-Mobil has paid a LOT to get their Mobil-1 in many of the race teams--but not all racers have switched to synthetics.

While the 'Synthetics' WILL hold up better under EXTREMELY HOT (above 280F sump temp) conditions, and will flow better when EXTREMELY low(below -10F) temperatures, there is little/no fulid dynamic reason to use them for most drivers. 'Synthetics' are not 'natural solvents' for either additives or the inevitable combustion by-products so they have to contain co-solvents (lower quality conventional oil) to keep the additives in solution and improve sludge/varnish detergency and solvency. The additive package is significantly different for synthetics.

Many 'synthetics' have lowered the amount of the best anit-wear additive (ZDDTP for short) under pressure from car makers because the additive is not good for catalytic muffler performance/life.

You really want an oil that advertises on the container EXCEEDS ALL.... --specifications--not one that says 'MEETS .....'. There is a big difference in real world performance between "Exceeds" and "Meets".

Change the oil and filter MUCH more frequently than suggested by the car maker. They push change intervals to the max (remember they only want durability through the warranty period, not forever). If you change oil and filter evey 4K miles instead of 8K, (assuming $35/change) , you spend an 'extra' $405 over the 100,000 miles--and end up with a clean-as new engine with as-new seals, virtually no-wear, operating 'as-new' and good for another 200K miles at least--- as opposed to one with hardened, cracking seals, significant camshaft wear, nearing failure.

Buy good oil, filters AND good fuel (those brands that advertise 'clean-up' or 'Tier-One' detergency). Figure out the cost--say an additional 3-4cents/gal for the best--prorated over 100,000 miles against the cost of even a single fuel injector failure (you will get LOTS more than that with low-cost gasoline) The fuel cost difference is in the range of $150-$300 over the 100,000 miles!!

Good oil and fuel are CHEAP CHEAP compared to the problems avoided.