HELP! Considering a 1985 SL & need advice

[amiette]

Hi All:
I am new to this forum and need some advice.
I am considering the purchase of a 1985 380SL (one owner, 72k miles, all service records).

What is the background on this particular year and model (is it reliable? is the maintenance or are reparis costly? what are the major problems owners have experienced with this car) ?

AND.... what should i look for in the service records?
What is a fair asking price for this vehicle?

THANK YOU SO MUCH for your help. I have been in love this model since i was kid, but I don't want my childhood dreams to get in the way of making a smart purchase.

Look forward to the feedback!
Anette

[sokoloff]

'85 was a 380SL
'86 was the 560SL
Which is your question about? They are different engines.

Len

[amiette]

typo! very sorry. the dealer is selling two models and i was confused it is a 380!!!

[page62]

There are many variables involved with pricing. So we need to fill in a few blanks here...

How much is the dealer asking? Where are you located?

[Alkraut]

Some tips (my 2 cents): The 1985 380SL was the last year of that "model", so the big issue of the weak single timing chain does not apply. The timing chains are long, however, and do need to be kept track of. Listen for any "rattling" that occurs in the engine on cold start-up, that may disappear in a few seconds. That is indication that timing chain guides or the timing chain may need attention, and is somewhat costly. With 72K, a well-maintained car should be in good shape. Check the maintenance records for regular oil changes. Every 3 to 5 thousand miles is good. Check to see when the brakes were last serviced as well as the transmission fluid replacement. When you drive the car, pay attention to noises, especially over bumps or railroad tracks. The subframe bushings compress over time, and noise here may mean they will need replacement. See that the transmission shifts smooth and effortlessly. Driving a car tells you a lot. These cars should feel very good with that mileage. Make sure all the fluid levels are up (power steering, coolant, engine oil, etc) and check for puddles when sitting a while, after a good drive. Some small oil seepage here and there is not abnormal, but puddles mean leaks that need attention. Make sure the A/C works and the cruise control. When you turn the key on, but prior to starting, see that all the indicator lights come on. After starting, they should go off. Look under the car for rust. Look for rust everywhere. Check the width of the seams on doors, hood, trunk, they should be very uniform. If not, the car may have had collision damage. Look for original decals. Missing decals are a sign of body repair. If everything looks and feels good, go for it. These cars were designed to be repaired and to last a lifetime. Lots of parts available. It just costs money. Lots of great, free help and advice on this forum!

[amiette]

thanks, this is GREAT advice!!
the dealer is asking $11,000

[Jim B.]

To me the threshold question is do you want a 560SL or 380SL? (or a 500SL euro?)

I am not an expert on these; but the 380SL in US trim (it IS a US, not a gray market car, I assume), right? The US cars had the uglier bumpers, and the 4 round headlights. If yes, the 380, will run on lower octane than the 560SL, and get better MPG probably, but it gives only 155 hp, as opposed to the 227 you get in the 560SL, and these are HEAVY sports cars, called the panzerwagen by some people. There is a big performance difference.

The service records would disclose where the car lived most of its life, hopefully it won't have spent its winters traversing snowy and salted roads.
(Some cherished ones from the North and Northeast are stored winters, Texas, NM and AZ ones are rust free but desert heat bakes paint, and cracks leather and dash. Southern Calif.is a pretty good bet.)

Does the cruise control work, and Climate control heat and cool as it should?
Does the transmission shift smoothly in all gears; (Proper in the service records would be at least 2 ATF services, and coolant changes, and 2 or 3 brake fluid changes - look in the maintenance book to see if they have been performed; the stamps would be in the last pages of the booklet-or find them in the service records.) Consider maybe replacing the radiator, if it is original, because the original ones came with unreinforced hosenecks, and they could crumble after years. A good time to check hoses and belts too, to see if they need to be replaced.

Some people feel the accomodations are a bit tight, do you feel comfortable, enough thigh hip and leg room? What color is the car, do you like it? Are you SURE you found one with no rust, original paint? 73k, even with records, is very low mileage!! How far apart are the services spaced? Was there a 2-3 year "blank spot" where the car sat without being started? If so, the rubber bits could dry out or shrink, extended inactivity not too good.
How is the condition of the soft top, and the rear window? Cracks, rips, tears? What about the convertible hardtop? Color and condition? This model would have the Bundt cake wheels if a US original. Does it have the jack, tool kit, first aid kit present (not sure if SL had 1st aid kit with it) Have you considered a hardtop hoist for the car? You would need one for open air driving days-is one included with the car?

What about the radio. OEM was Becker I think, and these were not especially reliable then.

Does it track straight, no alignment or suspension problems?

At the price, which to me, seems rather high for a 380 engined SL, you deserve a turn key car in perfect condition without issues, with the color and wheels and stereo that you like. Certainly a mint, original unrestored, low mileage well kept '85 380SL is a better deal than an '86 560SL, with no records, tatty, and unknown body history.

It's hard to advise without pictures, and sketchy information - not that we are blaming you!! You are new here, and peolple want to help.

I don't know what comparable prices would be, but check around and see on autotrader, ebay and so on, remembering getting the best condition one is the best way to go, even if it costs more.

Just a few thoughts to get you on your way.

Keep the questions coming, pictures if possible, and decide wisely.

Good luck
Jim B.

[page62]

That's high for a 380SL, but it would be a steal for a 560SL. There are many differences between the two models. The 560SL is considered the most desirable of the series (at least in North America), and the 380SL is the least desirable. However, by '85 most of the undesirable qualities of this particular model (except relative lack of power) had been engineered out of the car.

This is a roundabout way of saying the '85 380SL is the most desirable of the 380 years, but regardless it's still the "stepchild" of the whole 107 SL series...

I'd still buy the car if it's as good as you say, but I'd use this information as a MAJOR bargaining chip. How good a negotiator are you?

[Roncallo]

Here is a link to a 560SL with under 80K, listed at $11,500. There are several others at this sight.

If performance is what you are looking for then there is no reason to consider anything less than a 560. If you want gas milage than the 380 is the one. The 380SL is the slowest of the 107's made.

Also consider this. Back in 1988, the 560SL was the fastest car MB imported into the US. Today I dont know if there is a single vehical in the 2006 MB gas powered lineup that will not outrun a 560SL.

John Roncallo

http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/vdp.jsp?car_id=201190168&dealer_id=57806174&car_year=1987&model=560SL&bkms=1148340569051&lang=en&isp=y&start_year=1981&certified=&search_type=both&distance=0&first_record=76&make=MB&min_price=7000&sort_type=mileageDESC&address=06492&advanced=&end_year=2007&pager.offset=75&max_price=12000&cardist=1496

[ctaylor738]

This is sort of like your wife asking how her hair looks, but here goes.

Sounds like a nice car. At around 11K, you are definitely paying all the money for it. For the same or less, you can get a 560, which is really the next generation of the SL and has a lot of engineering improvements and more power. But the 560 comes with different rims and a cheesy (IMO) 3rd light on the trunk.

At 72K and good maintenance, you probably are not going to have any major drivetrain problems. I would insist on the climate control functioning perfectly and a guarantee that it would pass emissions. It should be perfect cosmetically. Insist that the hardtop be removed and inspect the area around the boot cover seal for even the slightest sign of rust - this is a major PITA to fix right.

[amiette]

i am speechless. i cannot believe how much invaluable advice i have received here today. i have printed out and made a very detailed checklist for my first test drive.

i am interested in the 380 rather than the 560 because i am not as interested in the performance. i just sold my infiniti g35 and the mpg on that killed me here in san diego.

$11K seems a bit high to me, but as soon as i do thorough inspection i'll get back you all (tomorrow!)

thanks again for your patience with a novice and I am indebted to you all ( if i could make cookies for everyone of you, i would).

a.

[Roncallo]

Make sure the AC blows out the center vents. Heat should not come out of the center vent's. It's a common failure for the center vent actuator to fail on cars this old. To see how big a job this is to repair, look at one of my previous posts. "Will Sadie ever run again". It's about the single biggest job I did on my 560SL.

John Roncallo

[page62]

Ummm...if the mpg on your G35 killed you in SD...the mpg on the 380SL is gonna, ummm, welll...if you love the car enough, you'll pay the premium. Because there is NO OTHER car quite like this!

Even though I own a modern SLK, I still have the SL...because it's unique!

[amiette]

do you think that $11k is high? i negotiate well.

[amiette]

also, what i am looking at price wise on standard maintenance in socal (i.e. oil, brakes, tuneups...)

is it as pricey as many say?

thanks, folks. if i could i would take all of you with me tomorrow... but i feel like you're all there with me already (in my 4 page checklist and questions for dealer )