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  #1  
Old 06-14-2006, 05:23 PM
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Need to replace alterantor - how

Can anyone give me the steps on how to remove the alternator from a 560 sl. Is there anything I should know about removing anything else to get it out. Or which bolts should I try to loosen?

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Old 06-14-2006, 08:12 PM
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It's dead simple. Just use your eyes and your common sense. Are you sure you don't need to merely replace the internal voltage regulator? **************.com sells a regulator with a detailed instruction sheet -- you can save some $$$! And if you don't need instructions, I'll bet Phil at FastLane can beat that price...

Remember to disconnect the battery first!
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Old 06-14-2006, 08:37 PM
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I tried to check my voltage regulator once. I couldn't get to it. It looked to me like I needed to remove the alternator to get at it. Decided that I'd wait for the voltage regulator to crap out first.
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Old 06-14-2006, 11:31 PM
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I'd definitely try replacing the regulator first -it's a $20-$25 gamble, but in most cases it's worth it.

On replacing, it's pretty easy - but you MUST disconnect the battery first for safety reasons. Loosen the nut behind the arm on the toothed bolt. DO NOT TURN THE TOOTHED BOLT. Then, loosen the nuts and bolts at the other points. Depending on what exactly is the alternator on your car, the alternator plugs in with a bail holding down a plug or it is connected via threaded studs and lock nuts. Before removing, NOTE THE ORIENTATION OF THE ALTERNATOR. If you are getting a replacement, removing the old pulley can be a @#$@#$ if the new unit isn't equipped with one. When moving the pulley from the old unit to the other (and the pulley is probably just two stamped halves) note the exact, precicse order of all washers, spacers, etc when removing. Also, your alternator may or may not have a keyway and key. Don't lose it, it must be replaced into the new alternator.

When reinstalling, finger-tighten all nuts/bolts; then, use the toothed bolt to tension the belt; then, tighten all bolts and nuts to reasonable tightness (remember, one of them screws into the ALUMINUM, SOFT engine block. Again, do not tighten at the toothed bolt, tighten its nut.

I'ts important to use the correct belt tension, too loose is obviously a problem, but too much will very prematurely wear out the alternator bearing. A rule of thumb is supposed to be 1/2" deflection at the centerpoint between two pulleys at 12" - but I bought a tool to measure this with (a krikit).
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Old 06-16-2006, 09:39 AM
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Thanks for the advice. I have singing that would stop after a short time running, from my alternator, that I had the indie next door tell me was coming from the alternator, after using the stethoscope method. I changed the alternator and it is still singing. When I changed it I did notice that when I put the fan blade back on it that the slot was worn and that it slipped under the key. Could this be the problem? And does anyone have the diagram of the stack on the alternator shaft? Is there a washer between the alternator and the fan blade?

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