560SL door molding

[opnwide]

How is the exterior door molding (and the other 2 for that matter) attached? From the backside with nuts? From the outside with plastic fasteners? Removal? Thanks, Craig Graham

[ericdee]

Yes with nuts and plastic fasteners, the nuts are at the end of the door, just remove the nuts and you shouldn't have a problem getting them off.

[Strife]

Some time ago I scored an incredible deal on a full set with new "berries" but I've been afraid to attempt removal of the old ones. If I remove the nut on each will they pop off with a vinyl wedge inbetween the chrome and door/rocker/fender?

Does anyone have any ideas on how to restore the finish on old ones? It's a shame that the set thats installed is dent free but the tops are "baked". For $500+ a set, it might be worth the effort, even if they have to be removed.

[myanoch]

Strife
I went to the local paint store
They had this suff Restore1 made in Germany
I will get the exact name when I go home today
$35 a liter
The guy raved about it
So I tried it
It made them look like new
I use it on alll the trim bumbers and seals
looks great

[David Langsam]

I used 'simple green' to clean the mouldings (and the rubber parts of the bumpers, etc.). It worked much better than armor all. Be careful not to get the stuff on the paint.

Or you could always do what I eventually did. Wait until the neighbor across the street backs into your parked car and get the body shop to replace them with new.

David

[maheath]

I've used Mother's Back to Black. It made a big difference. It's a cleaner, not a dye.

[JPMOSE]

I agree with the prior posting....I just applied Mother's Back to Black and the moldings look great! If you have wax build up on the moldings, I would try and scrub all of it off with an old toothbrush or equivilant first.

[Strife]

What happened to mine, is the tops get dry and develop fine wrinkles. A topical solution wouldn't be enough (I have Back to Black and it works great on everything else).

This problem became more obvious to me when I got the new pieces.

[roncor]

What about using a fine abrasive, such as 220 sandpaper? It would knock off the wrinkled layer and leave a smooth surface that would accept a cleaner.

[Strife]

Originally Posted by roncor

What about using a fine abrasive, such as 220 sandpaper? It would knock off the wrinkled layer and leave a smooth surface that would accept a cleaner.

This is part of what you need to do. It's pretty tricky to get the finish exactly like the part was when it was new. 220/320 sandpaper isn't enough, it takes lots hot water and vigorous sanding, the dead rubber comes off like eraser bits. My new, in the wrapper parts, were not "shiny" or glossy, they were sort of semi-gloss. The part of the rubber above the aluminum trim also goes bad and it's extremely difficult to sand SAFELY without removing the strip from the car.

Once sanded with 220/320, and then rubbed vigorously with rubbing compound, I've gotten the 20-year old moulding finish to pretty darned closely match the brand-new finish. They are a little "stiffer", though. When they were new, they had a little more give.


I disassembled several of them so that I would not scratch the aluminum. BAD IDEA. They were apparently assembled out of the mold and have shrunk. It took boiling water and considerable swearing to get them back together (and I still have a door piece - a long one - to do).

[nobby]

Here's a laugher....I use a black felt pen to keep 'em black. Funny thing though...it's just the door trim.