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#1
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Newbie going to look at first 280SL
Hi,
I've been a car guy my entire life and I've always liked the 230~280SL series. There is a European spec '68 280SL for sale locally that interests me. It is a four speed car that was brought from Europe in the mid eighties. It apparently has never been accidented and has had no major rust repair. It was redone over here in the late eighties by the fellow who imported it, and sold it to the present present owner in 1992. So what are the weak points to look for when checking an SL of this vintage? Where are they most prone to rust? I am a competent home mechanic , but I must confess that I don't know these cars very well... Thanks in advance for any help. Paul |
#2
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Are you buying PET's old sl? (Inside joke for us Canucks )
You might want to try this link http://www.sl113.org/articles/engine/buying_a_car.asp It will give the info you're looking for and the website is dedicated to that car model. |
#3
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Paul,
Yes, the www.SL113.org site will help you a lot. After reading the fine link suggested by London380sl, sign on to the Forum and use the search tool. Do different searches for "buying" or "want to buy" or "looking for" or other phrases people in your position might use when askign for assistance. It's a very friendly group. Also, ask for a reprint of the Pagoda World issue that has a 4 or 5 page article regarding what to look for when buying. This is a great link too: http://www.silverstarrestorations.com/113SL.htm
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NOW: 2017 C43 AMG, 2006 Wrangler Unlimited Rubicon, 1966 230SL, 1980 450SL (for sale!) PAST: 2006 C230, 1997 E300D, 1994 E420, 1994 Neon Spt Cpe, 1984 300ZX, 1983 Celica GT, 1976 Electra Limited, 1984 Honda Nighthawk 650, 1979 Suzuki PE175, 1978 Suzuki DS100 www.mbca.org - www.sl113.org - www.ohio4x4.com |
#4
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Also, a Euro-spec 1968 with a 4-speed manual is just about the optimal car in my opinion.
- 1968 means little-to-no emissions or fuel savings add-on components (simpler troubleshooting) - 4-speed manual means more fun - Euro means euro lights, bumpers, door pockets, etc. (better look) - Euro means hotter cam (more HP near redline) Caution: Nearly all sellers say the car has never been in a accident, all original, etc. You need an experience eye to see what the seller is hiding. There are many Canandian members in www.SL113.org group, maybe some near you, who could help.
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NOW: 2017 C43 AMG, 2006 Wrangler Unlimited Rubicon, 1966 230SL, 1980 450SL (for sale!) PAST: 2006 C230, 1997 E300D, 1994 E420, 1994 Neon Spt Cpe, 1984 300ZX, 1983 Celica GT, 1976 Electra Limited, 1984 Honda Nighthawk 650, 1979 Suzuki PE175, 1978 Suzuki DS100 www.mbca.org - www.sl113.org - www.ohio4x4.com |
#5
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Fuddle duddle.
BTW: I thought you were in the OTHER London...you know, the one with Buckingham Palace.
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'01 SLK320, '79 450SL & '01 C320 -- What? 3 Mercedes? I am DEFINITELY crazy!!! |
#6
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Thanks for the great feedback guys, lots of good info!
I'm on my way out the door now to go give it a first look, I now have a better idea of what to look for. Basically anything that has to be fixed is going to cost me a million bucks and is going to put me into bankruptsy, right? Keep you posted, Paul |
#7
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Well I went to see it and I wasn't impressed.
The engine compartment and bottom were covered in rustproofing, and it looked like every possible liquid that could leak was. The front end had had bodywork and they didn't do a great job. Oh well, it was worth a look anyway. Thanks again, Paul |
#8
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How much they asked for it?
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DRIVE IT LIKE YOU STOLE IT! |
#9
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He is asking $22 CDN, but told me he would take $20 before I even asked... could probably pick it up for about $18, he wants it out of his garage before the snow. Seems like a decent guy, he bought it in '92 to drive to the golf course, he's not a car guy. Other than oil changes I don't think that he's ever had any work done on it since he's owned it.
Paul |
#10
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Not a bad price for a "project". If you do your own work, it might be worth it.
The car came from the factory with "body shultz" or something like that applied to the bottom to protect against rocks & the like from chipping the paint and starting rust. Trick is to know if you're looking at factory sealant or a patch job from replacing rusty body sections. Leaks can be fixed. (Possibly big $$$$$) You would need to know what the compression and leak-down test show. I suggest you drive as many W113s as possible before buying, and buy the best condition car you can afford. Finally, join the Pagoda SL Group (www.SL113.org) and learn LOTS.
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NOW: 2017 C43 AMG, 2006 Wrangler Unlimited Rubicon, 1966 230SL, 1980 450SL (for sale!) PAST: 2006 C230, 1997 E300D, 1994 E420, 1994 Neon Spt Cpe, 1984 300ZX, 1983 Celica GT, 1976 Electra Limited, 1984 Honda Nighthawk 650, 1979 Suzuki PE175, 1978 Suzuki DS100 www.mbca.org - www.sl113.org - www.ohio4x4.com |
#11
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Selling '84 280 SL
Could anyone recommend a good site to list this car? It has a newly rebuilt
engine to original european specs. 2.8 Liter and has approx. 3,000 miles on it. Car has a little over 84,000 miles. I appreciate any and all feedback. Thank you! |
#12
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You can try this site:
http://ww2.collectorcartraderonline.com/search.php Also, in the DC area, Craigslist is very active for Mercedes. Did I see your car there a few days ago?
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Chuck Taylor Falls Church VA '66 200, '66 230SL, '96 SL500. Sold: '81 380SL, '86 300E, '72 250C, '95 C220, 3 '84 280SL's '90 420SEL, '72 280SE, '73 280C, '78 280SE, '70 280SL, '77 450SL, '85 380SL, '87 560SL, '85 380SL, '72 350SL, '96 S500 Coupe |
#13
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You did indeed.
Thank you, Chuck. I'll check that site you posted. I appreciate it.
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