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  #1  
Old 02-18-2007, 08:35 AM
ewenjo's Avatar
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advice please re. timing chain

Need some expertise! I ran the new timing chain in according the procedure posted in the tech help section. When I came to the end I was one cam sprocket tooth short to make the link connection. The procedure addresses this but is unclear what to do. It says to rotate the cam shaft one tooth and then make the connection. It seems rotating would pull the chain by the same amount and I would not be able to make the connection.

My thought is to remove the tensioner which would slack the chain to enable me to pull it up one cam tooth. Do you think this would do it?

Or is there a better way?

Thanks as usual. John

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  #2  
Old 02-18-2007, 12:38 PM
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If you had the tensioner on throughout this whole process, remove or loosen it.
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Old 02-18-2007, 01:10 PM
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"The Book" says to remove the tensioner, AND the RH cam followers. This gives you a lot more room to move things safely. IF you remove the tensioner, you've got to remove the RH followers, in my opinion.
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Old 02-19-2007, 07:24 AM
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Hi Strife

What do you mean " remove the cam followers"? What are they ( sorry for my naivte). I changed the tension rail , tensioner and upper rails without removing anything else. They all went in relatively "easy". Then I rolled in the new chain with the tensioner installed. So I am not sure what the cam followers will do to loosen the new chain by the one link space that I need. I am willing to learn. Thanks, john
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Old 02-19-2007, 08:34 AM
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If you had removed the right hand cam followers (the pieces of metal between the cam and the valves), you will be able to freely move the right hand cam without worry during installation. I didn't do mine the way you are doing yours; the only thing that I can think of is that you've reinstalled the tensioner and it's pushed in so much as to not give you enough slack to get the chain back together. Obviously, you've got to make sure everything is on the marks again before proceeding.
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  #6  
Old 02-19-2007, 11:38 AM
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Thanks Strife

I am going to give it a look see. I am still not sure what removing the cam followers does but I will look and try to understand. BUt you do agree??? that if I remove or loosen the tensioner I will get sufficient slack to move the chain one tooth?

Do you think that due to the old chain stretch that the new chain is shorter by one tooth length? I know when I installed it I didn't slip a tooth.

Anyway, again thanks for your input.
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  #7  
Old 02-19-2007, 12:16 PM
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Originally Posted by ewenjo View Post
Thanks Strife

I am going to give it a look see. I am still not sure what removing the cam followers does but I will look and try to understand. BUt you do agree??? that if I remove or loosen the tensioner I will get sufficient slack to move the chain one tooth?

Do you think that due to the old chain stretch that the new chain is shorter by one tooth length? I know when I installed it I didn't slip a tooth.

Anyway, again thanks for your input.
1. removing the tensioner should definitely give you more slack without having to turn either cam (don't move them imdependently of the chain). As long as you don't move the RH cam except by the tiniest amount, you don't have to remove the RH cam followers.
2. If you removed ONE LINK from the old chain and got the right new chain, this should not be possible. The MB manual gives the number of links in the 116 chain vs 117 chain (it's more than one link). Mixing them up in shipping would be "Bad".
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  #8  
Old 02-19-2007, 03:20 PM
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hi strife

i didn't mean to imply that there was a difference in the number of links. What I meant to say that the old chain is longer due to the 25 years in place. And since it probably stretched, would it be possible that this stretched length is about .25 inches (approx. 0.5% stretch) which is what i need to meet the end of the new pristine chain. maybe i'm thinking too much!

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