I started the Guide Rail Replacement Project on My 560SL

[Alkraut]

After much reading, and procurement of the engine manual, essential tools and the necessary parts, I started the job on my 560SL with 80K miles. The car has been well-maintained all it's life, including 3000 mile oil changes, and things look pretty good with the air cleaner, spark plug harness and right camshaft cover off. Very clean, camshaft is nice, and nothing looks out-of-ordinary. The upper guide on this side is amber in color and the plastic cam oilers are almost black. I will be replacing both. I removed the spark plugs and rotated the engine to line up the marks on the camshaft. The timing mark on the crankshaft says 4 degrees past TDC. Should I replace the timing chain now or leave that for a future project? It took about an hour or so to get to this point, so it's not real significant a time savings to "do it now". What do you guys think? Do I need to check the alignment mark on the left side? I also purchased a new Febi chain tensioner, and I will be putting that on after the guide rails are replaced on both sides. I got the "screw-type" guide rail pin puller from ZDMAK. Next thing will be to remove the cruise control actuator and the alternator with bracket. I got a bit nervous when I saw the Allen-head socket head bolts holding on the alternator bracket, but with my 6mm Allen socket and various wobble extensions I managed to break them loose...whew! Nice to have a car that's not rusty! I now need to release the belt tension. Hopefully will get to the next step it in the next few days.

[Roncallo]

Originally Posted by Alkraut

After much reading, and procurement of the engine manual, essential tools and the necessary parts, I started the job on my 560SL with 80K miles. The car has been well-maintained all it's life, including 3000 mile oil changes, and things look pretty good with the air cleaner, spark plug harness and right camshaft cover off. Very clean, camshaft is nice, and nothing looks out-of-ordinary. The upper guide on this side is amber in color and the plastic cam oilers are almost black. I will be replacing both. I removed the spark plugs and rotated the engine to line up the marks on the camshaft. The timing mark on the crankshaft says 4 degrees past TDC. Should I replace the timing chain now or leave that for a future project? It took about an hour or so to get to this point, so it's not real significant a time savings to "do it now". What do you guys think? Do I need to check the alignment mark on the left side? I also purchased a new Febi chain tensioner, and I will be putting that on after the guide rails are replaced on both sides. I got the "screw-type" guide rail pin puller from ZDMAK. Next thing will be to remove the cruise control actuator and the alternator with bracket. I got a bit nervous when I saw the Allen-head socket head bolts holding on the alternator bracket, but with my 6mm Allen socket and various wobble extensions I managed to break them loose...whew! Nice to have a car that's not rusty! I now need to release the belt tension. Hopefully will get to the next step it in the next few days.

Generally the chains are good for about 100K, but if you are already there you might as well just do it. Its worth getting the chain loader tool even if you just use it once.

John Roncallo

[Damian]

I will be starting mine in the next month Thanks for the motivation.

John what is the chain loader tool ? How does it work?

Regards

Damian

[Damian]

I will be starting mine in the next month, thanks for the motivation.

John what is the chain loader tool ? How does it work?

Regards

Damian

[Roncallo]

Originally Posted by Damian

I will be starting mine in the next month, thanks for the motivation.

John what is the chain loader tool ? How does it work?

Regards

Damian

The chain loader tool is a tool that holds the chain to the sprocket as it is being rolled in. It makes this a one man job, which can save alot of money especially when compared to using ones wife for help with this. Below is a cost breakdown of changing a chain both with and without a chain loader tool.

With cahin loader
Chain and gaskets $100.
Chain loader tool $65.
Total cost of job $165.00

Without Chain Loader
Chain and gaskets $100.
Chain loader tool $65.
New cylinder heads because wife dident do it right $1000.00
Divorce because you made the mistake of blaming her $400,000.00
Replacement 560SL, because the wife got yours in the divorce $15,000
Total cost of job $416,165.00

Now some have argued that the second option, although being more expensive IS WORTH IT.

John Roncallo

[Dee8go]

Thanks for the clear explanation of the cost differences involved, John. That sounded kind of like one of those VISA commercials.

[Alkraut]

John, thanks for the advice!
Does the chain loader eliminate the need to remove the cam followers on the right side? I understand that the reason the MB manual says to remove them is to remove the rotating resistance to avoid slipping a tooth or two. The loader should eliminate slipping, right?

[dugald]

Originally Posted by Roncallo

The chain loader tool is a tool that holds the chain to the sprocket as it is being rolled in. It makes this a one man job, which can save alot of money especially when compared to using ones wife for help with this. Below is a cost breakdown of changing a chain both with and without a chain loader tool.

With cahin loader
Chain and gaskets $100.
Chain loader tool $65.
Total cost of job $165.00

Without Chain Loader
Chain and gaskets $100.
Chain loader tool $65.
New cylinder heads because wife dident do it right $1000.00
Divorce because you made the mistake of blaming her $400,000.00
Replacement 560SL, because the wife got yours in the divorce $15,000
Total cost of job $416,165.00

Now some have argued that the second option, although being more expensive IS WORTH IT.

John Roncallo

Guy says to his wife: " I forgot your birthday last week. What would you like for a present?"
Wife replies:" I want a divorce, you jerk."
Guy says: "Oh, I wasn't planning to spend that much."

[BDBENZ]

I completed my chain and guides replacement last year and as long as you keep the chain in contact with the cam gear you will be fine. You do not need to remove the cam followers. Make sure you remove the chain tensioner.

Bill

[450slcguy]

Is a crimper needed for the master link?

[ctaylor738]

This is one of those eternal questions. The MB procedure is to use the clips, and I have never seen a report of them failing. So I am a clip guy. But there are others who swear you need to crimp.

But it is easy to lose the little buggers.

[Roncallo]

Originally Posted by Alkraut

John, thanks for the advice!
Does the chain loader eliminate the need to remove the cam followers on the right side? I understand that the reason the MB manual says to remove them is to remove the rotating resistance to avoid slipping a tooth or two. The loader should eliminate slipping, right?

Well let me put it to you this way. I have never used a chain loader, nor have I removed the cam followers. I have also in the past loaded chains using the starter motor. And the only time I'v done this with two people is when I used the starter motor, without a chain loader. Non of these thing would MB ever advise doing in there manuals for risk of technician screwing up and causing very expensive damage. Unless you have the mind over machine ability to understand whats happening and why as you do these tasks, you better do it the way the book says.

If you are asking me this question, you dont understand the physics of what is going on and you dont want to learn that physics the hard way. I suggest you remove the rockers and spark plugs. And dont even think about using the starter motor. I hope I dont sound rude, I just care

John Roncallo

[Alkraut]

Thanks again for the advice John. Yes, I certainly understand the physics involved as well as the critical importance of correct valve timing on an "interference" type engine. The reason for my question was that I do not have the loader in-hand so I can only hypothesize the function, which I believe prevents the fed chain from coming up and off the sprocket. A "loaded" camshart has significant rotating resistance, thus the potential for a fed chain to jump a tooth...if not held firmly engaged with the sprocket teeth. I believe the the "unloading" of the camshaft by removing the rocker followers would be optional with the chain loader. I was trying to confirm this. In any case, I do plan to use the loader as you recommended. I also will load the chain by manual rotation of the crankshaft. I definately will not have my wife assist me...maybe my nephew who is also, as I am, a Mechanical Engineer.

[Roncallo]

Originally Posted by Alkraut

Thanks again for the advice John. Yes, I certainly understand the physics involved as well as the critical importance of correct valve timing on an "interference" type engine. The reason for my question was that I do not have the loader in-hand so I can only hypothesize the function, which I believe prevents the fed chain from coming up and off the sprocket. A "loaded" camshart has significant rotating resistance, thus the potential for a fed chain to jump a tooth...if not held firmly engaged with the sprocket teeth. I believe the the "unloading" of the camshaft by removing the rocker followers would be optional with the chain loader. I was trying to confirm this. In any case, I do plan to use the loader as you recommended. I also will load the chain by manual rotation of the crankshaft. I definately will not have my wife assist me...maybe my nephew who is also, as I am, a Mechanical Engineer.

Yes removal of the rockers would be more optional with a chain loader. I have never used it but after my last chain I did purchase a chain loader in anticipation of doing the chain on my other car. I can make you a rental deal if your interested on the chain loader, pin puller and spring compressor. If your interested, PM me.

John Roncallo

[joselu43]

I did not remove the rockers either, but I did remove the spark plugs. Used vise grips to hold the chain in. Other people use a number of different things, from plastic tie-ups (a whole bunch of them) to carpenter clamps. Even if the chain jumps you can recover as long as you mark everything. Just dont drop than chain in there! (Use a wire!).

Jl