Timing Chain Replacement on My 560SL

[matchless86sl]

I am working up the nerve to replace the chain and guides on my 110k sl. Where did you source the chain loaders from? Are yours still for sale?

thanks,
Don

[dsutton01]

My '89 560SL has about 160k on it now, and i bought it with about 130k. I have no idea if the chain or the guides were ever replaced.

Lately, I hear a brief rattling noise from the engine on occasional starts, usually when cold. I have a suspicion it's the chain, and at 160k, it's not worth taking any chances.

I'm curious to try this myself, but if a good tech can do it in an few hours, i'm more inclined to go that route. I definitely plan to replace all the guides as well.

A few other questions:

1. Is the removal of the timing cover a big job?
2. Are there guides on the bottom that have to be replaced as well?
3. Does the tensioner need to be replaced also?


Thanks!

[meltedpanda]

OK , I am joining in with those that are stressed, BUT I want to take it back a step(or two) . How does one measure chain stretch?

[halman2228]

That "brief rattling noise" is your sign! Failure is imminent...

First time I heard that, it went straight to my mechanic (carried, not driven).

When he opened it up, the upper rail was cracked and it was ready to let go.

Good luck,
Kevin

[Alkraut]

Originally Posted by dsutton01

My '89 560SL has about 160k on it now, and i bought it with about 130k. I have no idea if the chain or the guides were ever replaced.

Lately, I hear a brief rattling noise from the engine on occasional starts, usually when cold. I have a suspicion it's the chain, and at 160k, it's not worth taking any chances.

I'm curious to try this myself, but if a good tech can do it in an few hours, i'm more inclined to go that route. I definitely plan to replace all the guides as well.

A few other questions:

1. Is the removal of the timing cover a big job?
2. Are there guides on the bottom that have to be replaced as well?
3. Does the tensioner need to be replaced also?


Thanks!

You do not need to remove the timing cover for replacement of the chain, you do need to take off the valve (camshaft) covers. The air cleaner, spark plug wires, and fuel lines (driver side) need to come off.

The bottom guides are usually not replaced, and rarely cause problems. I think the motor will need to be removed to get them, as the front timing cover will need to come off for them.

The tensioner comes off from the side with two bolts. It needs to be removed to get slack. Might as well replace it. Check the " banana" arm that it pushes on for wear on the top plastic surface.

[Armandhammer]

At $60 an hour, what do you think the total cost would be for this entire job ?

[Armandhammer]

Is there a step by step explaination, with pics available for the 107 / 88 560 sl ? Would love to tackle this myself ( with a little help ) with you kind help. I even rented a garage for the winter to get her in shape. Your input is much apprecieted ; - )

[Tomguy]

All m116/m117's can have this job done the same way, with no special tools (like the loader) needed.
http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/M117TimingChain

[Deltacom]

It is important to note that the temporary link supplied with new timing chains need to be crimped as it is not a permanent solution. Whunter posted a “how to” a while back.

Timing chain crimper how to

[mbboy]

The plastic chain guides, especially the top left, can cause problems well before 100k miles simply because their plastic. If you're going to take the time and effort to replace them, do yourself a favor and use the rubber coated metal chain guides that Myle makes. They're more expensive, but well worth it.
That way, you won't have to replace them the next time you replace the chain, assuming that you plan on keeping the car.

[rowdie]

Do you have a site or vendor for the Meyle guides?

[mbboy]

At the top of this forum, click on Buy Parts, then Fast Lane, and search for "Timing Guide Rail." The plastic ones are around $3 and the metal ones are around $25, but well worth it, imo.

[Strife]

Originally Posted by Roncallo

30 years ago, I used to take an M117 timing chain, cut it in half and put the two pieces side by side and make a 4 row belt the Harley rideres were jealous of. I tried it again with my last chain and found that if I did that the belt would be too small. So it will have to be either a ladies double row belt, Or I will have to wait untill I do another timing chain job. The M117 engine must have gotten smaller over the years.

John Roncallo

I was very proud that I wear jeans a little smaller than I did when I was in high school (35+ years ago) - until I found out about "size inflation" in men's clothing! 32 now is MUCH larger than 32 "then".

[Strife]

Originally Posted by Deltacom

It is important to note that the temporary link supplied with new timing chains need to be crimped as it is not a permanent solution. Whunter posted a “how to” a while back.

Timing chain crimper how to

This is controversial. Firstly, the link as supplied by MB and other suppliers is designed to be used with E-clips. Secondly, the MB shop manual shows the link used.

I will say that the tiny little b@#$@#$ E-clips are very difficult to install. A few are (hopefully!!!!) at the bottom of my oil pan

Once installed, there is extremely little side-so-side stress on the chain to knock a clip off. However, I wonder if debris (from broken pieces of guide, for example) could knock off an e-clip.

[rowdie]

Originally Posted by mbboy

At the top of this forum, click on Buy Parts, then Fast Lane, and search for "Timing Guide Rail." The plastic ones are around $3 and the metal ones are around $25, but well worth it, imo.

Thanks I am in total agreement with your opinion.