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1991 R129, brake job, need help
So, I tore into my front brakes tonight, using the Mercedes WIS as my guide. (I have done very little work on disc brakes before)
I have purchased new EBC ceramic pads to replace the old worn ones (indicator light was on), as well as new wear sensors. I have used a punch to get get both pins out, but the WIS is listing a tool that looks like it will slide between the old pad and the pistons, to separate the two, and remove the old pad. Is there another way to do this with out this tool? Probably a simple question with a simple answer, so thanks in advance for any help!! Matt |
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I use a small crowbar or a prybar to open the piston.
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I got too many cars!! Insurance eats me alive. Dave 78 Corvette Stingray - 3k 82 242 Turbo Volvo - Manual - 270k 86 300e 5 speed manual - 210k 87 420sel - 240k 89 560sl - 78k 91 420sel - 205k 91 560sel - 85k 94 GMC Suburban - 90k 97 Harley Davidson Heritage Softail - 25k 00 GMC Silverado 1 ton 30k |
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I usually pull the caliper off the spindle. With the caliper off, I can clean all the crud built up around the pads, and remove any rust that could keep the pads from moving.
But if you don't want to do that, simply place a screwdriver blade between the rotor and the pad, and compress the piston all the way. Pull/pry that pad out, replace with new. Then do the other half. Do the same on the other side. Before you drive the car, you should depress the brake pedal a few times to move the pads toward the rotor, so you have proper braking action.
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Thank You! Fred 2009 ML350 2004 SL600 2004 SL500 1996 SL600 2002 SLK32 2005 CLK320 cabrio 2003 ML350 1997 C280 Sport |
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Quote:
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roadkingmike@aol.com Coast Aero Support Services, LLC '92 MB 500 SL '01 BMW 525i Sport '98 Harley Davidson RoadKing '74 BMW 3.0 CSi - Gone to a good home |
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Need more help
Ok board brothers, here is the latest:
I got the passenger side apart, using c clamps to open the piston, which then stayed open (this is how it is supposed to work correct? I got the one new pad in with just a few taps of a rubber hammer. It did sheer just a very small part of the face of the pad off. Now I cannot get the second pad in. It goes in part way, but then will not go further, I assume I should not force this with a hammer, etc. I believe the piston is still open all the way, but I am stuck. Any ideas? Thanks Matt
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1991 Mercedes 500SL 2001 Jaguar XJR 1967 Mustang |
#6
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When I did mine (1991 300SL ) I had no problem pushing the pistons in with a very large flat blade screw driver. There was ample clearance to install the new pads. As I recall, the piston can be moved in almost flush with the caliper surface. I would not suggest that you force the new pad in. Have you cleaned off all the surface rust? I wonder if the pads you have are thicker than originals? Did the old pads have shims? Do the new pads have shims? Don't forget the anti squeel paste.
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Resistance is Futile. |
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Thank You!!
Thanks guys, I have successfully installed my new pads. I would have still had them apart without all of your help!!
Matt
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1991 Mercedes 500SL 2001 Jaguar XJR 1967 Mustang |
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You don't know how jealous I am right now. I just had my front brake job done by an Indie, both rotor and pad for $419 including tax. You probably saved yourself $275 at the minimum.
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95 R129 04 Infiniti G35.5 BS 10 X204 |
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Are they the EBC Red? How is the brake dust? How often do you clean your wheels now vs. OE pads?
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Mit freundlichen Grüßen, Lynn 2000 SL500 Silver 2000 SL500 SOLD 1989 560SL SOLD 1988 560SL SOLD |
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EBC Reds
Hi Lynn, you are everywhere!! LOL
I have about 600 miles on the pads now. At first they were putting out way more dust than OEM, and I was not happy. I realized that this was due to the "Break-in" compound on the pads. Now they are still kicking dust out, but it gets less every day and is less than OEM. Manufac. says it can take 1000 miles to fully break-in the pads. I assume that in a few hundred more miles I will have little to no dust. Now I am driving the car every day as I want to get time in before the snow flies. I am cleaning the wheels about every 2 weeks. (at first I was cleaning them every 2-3 days) Matt
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1991 Mercedes 500SL 2001 Jaguar XJR 1967 Mustang |
#11
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As a seasoned mercedes brake installer (300cd, 85 turbo diesel, 300sl, and 30 years of porsches, I can offer the following tips. I always replace the wear indicators, use white grease on the back of the shoes and the edges (sparingly). I drive the pins with a large nail with the point filed off. I compress the pads with paint stir sticks or cresent wrench handles. Be sure you have removed the master cylinder cap off or you will have a difficult time. always look for fluid leaking on calipers and scratches on the disk. I never resurface disks. They are reasonable to replace as opposed to having a thin disk which would not take as much heat before it warped. You have saved a lot of money doing it your self..buy the best brake pads you can. I have taken to wearing rubber gloves when working on brakes over the last few years. Good luck!!!
Tom Swafford |
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