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  #1  
Old 09-15-2007, 07:49 PM
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W107 Starter Removal

What's the secret to removing the top bolt on the starter.
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  #2  
Old 09-15-2007, 09:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gwadey View Post
What's the secret to removing the top bolt on the starter.
Damn near impossible from what I've seen. Hopefully my starter won't need replacement, but would be good info to know anyhow.
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  #3  
Old 09-17-2007, 05:46 PM
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I tood mine to a starter shop because you could spend the rest of your life trying to get the top bolt out.
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  #4  
Old 09-17-2007, 06:39 PM
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The damn thing is out!

The top bolt is a MF. There is no way to get a socket wrench on this bolt guys. I made a special tool out of a 10mm gear wrench and a cut down 10mm allen wrench about an inch long. Not a lot of leverage but I was able to break it free and remove it with the aid of my tool.
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  #5  
Old 09-18-2007, 08:24 AM
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On my 280SL I needed 5 feet worth of extensions and flex socket. And that was with my exhaust dropped (for other reasons).
I found that removing the exhaust manifold assisted in removing the electrical connections.
This was done to remove the trani, however, once the starter was out I had it checked by a starter/alternator shop before re-installing.
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  #6  
Old 09-18-2007, 12:40 PM
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i have heard people making an access port through the floor board. On my 220 project it took me 2 hours to get the starter off, a real PIA, and I had to fabricate tools for that one too.
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  #7  
Old 10-06-2007, 12:21 AM
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Talking Is it same on 560SL?

Recently on my 88 560SL,from time to time the starter won't engage the wheel properly. Looks like I need to replace the starter soon .


Is it the same on 560SL about the BOLT? What is the special tool? How to make one?

Thanks!
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  #8  
Old 10-07-2007, 12:26 PM
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I was just messing with this on a 380SL.

I was able to turn the top bolt with a regular hex socket, a 3" extension, a wobbly, a 6" extension, and a ratchet. All 3/8.

You need a finely-geared ratchet to pull this off. It looks like you could get some more room by dropping the transmission down a couple of inches. But that's a lot of work.
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  #9  
Old 03-27-2008, 06:06 PM
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So I bought the new starter...

I figured, two bolts, should be a quick job. Then I'm trying to get to that top bolt...I'm like "wow, this is hard". So I do some research...LOOKS LIKE I'M IN FOR A REAL TREAT (78 450SL)
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Old 03-27-2008, 06:30 PM
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I believe the best access is from the bottom with the car on a rack. That will allow you to use a loooooong set of extensions snaked past the transmission.


230/8
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  #11  
Old 03-27-2008, 08:58 PM
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or open a hole ..............
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2011 Porsche Cayman - Bond,James Bond
99 E320 THE Queen Mary
62 220b - Dolly - Finally my Finny!
72 450SL, Pearl-SOLD
16 F350 6.7 Diesel -THOR
07 Lexus RX 350 - Lexi
14 38HP John Deere 3038E Tractor -Mean Green
84 300SD, Benjamin -SOLD
71 220 - W115-Libby ( my first love) -SOLD
73 280 - W114 "Organspende" Rest in Peace
81 380 SL - Rest in Peace
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  #12  
Old 03-28-2008, 08:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 230/8 View Post
I believe the best access is from the bottom with the car on a rack. That will allow you to use a loooooong set of extensions snaked past the transmission.


230/8
Yep! The starter on my 380sl started to fail last fall. So I bought a remanufactured Bosch, thinking that it would be a fairly easy job. After easily removing the lower bolt, however, I couldn't get that top bolt loose no matter what I tried -- including snaking a long extension with the 10mm Allen on the end through the transmission tunnel. Ended up taking it to the local dealer, and watched their shop foreman and a helper do the same thing on a lift. Charged me $50 to loosen it, and I completed the job in my garage. Well worth the dough!
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  #13  
Old 04-07-2008, 01:55 AM
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so this is what I end up doing

Not sure about other models, but my 78 450SL has a 19mm bolt. With that said, my cousin came over, and he's no car expert (but an amateur mechanic like myself) but he knew we had to get to that bolt, so whatever was blocking it, we needed to remove it. The top bolt was blocked period, by the transmission dipstick pipe. So ,we removed it. In the process we drained a little transmission oil. (about 1.5 quarts; the left side was jacked up so...), Then we had as much exposure to the bolt as possible w/o doing something like drilling a hole somewhere from inside the car. We had barely enough room to get a 1/4 in ratchet with a 3/4 in (close to 19mm) socket up there; just barely on, to loosen the bolt (after a good number of tried may I add). Once it was loose I used a 19mm wrench to slowly and painstakingly open the bolt about 1/5 turn every time before readjusting the wrench (took at least 15mins yes). And thats how I got the top bolt off.

So if you have a configuration like mine, I suggest removing the transmission dipstick pipe and that will give you access to the top bolt. Also the trans. pipe has a (fuel?) line clipped to it, so you have to unclip that line (not easy) before you completely remove the pipe.

Also, I first removed a heat shield that protects starter from the exhaust, and that gave me some more room from up top and around the starter to get the wire connections lose.
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  #14  
Old 04-07-2008, 09:01 PM
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I second those who have spoken before me:

There are two ways to get it out: 1) Drill a hole in the floor (don't forget to treat the edges and make a cap for it after!). That is probably the easiest way. 2) Two is to put just about every extension you have on the ratchet extending down the tranny tunnel and really lay into it.

Good luck, man. Every single Benz I've ever owned has needed to have the starter rebuilt shortly after she became mine. My 350SL is the only one that hasn't needed it yet, but I've only put about 50mi on her.
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  #15  
Old 04-28-2008, 09:04 AM
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I needed to move the starter forward about 3" to get the bolt out for the idler arm kit on my 560SL. I used a 24" long 1/2" drive extension, a flex-end, a 1/2" to 3/8" reducer, and a 3/8" drive 10mm allen socket. Took me all of 10 minutes.
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