560SL rear trans mount - how to remove?
 

OK, so I replaced the front engine mount, front sub frame mount and sway bar bushings. I have the trans mount and I took the bottom plates off (after supporting the trans) but I cannot get the @#$$@%& nut loose that holds the mount to the flage on the trans. How do you get it off? There is very little room and I cannot get a socket on nor a wrench. Do I need to disconnect the flex disc on the trans and push the axle up to get room?

For those you have changed the mount can you pls let me know what tool/wrench you used to get it loose.

I am almost to the point where I am ready to drive the car over to the dealer and pay my way out of this.

You shouldn't have to touch the flex disk at all. I swapped the trans mount about 3 months ago, don't recall any problem removing the bolts. There is also no mention of moving the flex disk in the manual. I recall one deceitful thing that looked like a nut, it was actually MB's hard formed receptable for a bolt mounting that goes in from the opposite side.
Had similar occurence when I reupholstered the seats and tried to separate the seat bottom from seat backs. What I thought was a nut was hard formed metal. Man did I put pressure on it with a ratchet, good thing I lost.
Look again - see if its a bolt going in on the other side.

Your obviously doing something wrong. This should be a 45 min job. 30 min to jack it up onto stands and then back down again, and 15 min to replace the trans mount.

I will try to get you pictures.

John Roncallo

It is very possiblt I am doing something wrong. The nut I am talking about is the one circled in red on the attached.

On each side of the nut there is part of the trans flange that prevents me from getting a good wrench on the nut.

Sorry I think my daughter took my camera. But I was just out there and I can get a 19mm Craftsman combination wrench on this nut. The box end of the wrench will fit inside the flange but may be difficult to get past the flex coupling the open end of the wernch will also fit betwwen the flanges as long as you apprach straight from the back. Once the nuit is loose the open end will still grab high on the nut from the sides.

Unless you are using one of those wrenches from a Civel war Iron clad boat, you shouldent have a problem.

Also you did remove the aft cross member part # 11 in your picture??

John Roncallo

You should support the trans with a jack and let it down to get access to the nut, as I recall. It was not that hard!

Yes, the cross member is removed and the trans is supported by a floorjack.

How much can the flexdisc be flexed when lowering the trans to get the wrench on the nut? I am sure it itsn't hard but getting the wrench on the nut and haveing enough leverage to get the nut loose has turned out to be a bigger challange than expected.

Hey, I figured out how to change the front motor mounts and the subframe mounts along with the upper chain guides so my hands should be put on right. :P

Well, did you get it out? I was planning to do mine and was hoping you found a method. Did the angled "wing" plate (by crossmember) also need to be removed? How about the cross bolt that goes front-to-back? That come out OK? After mount replacement, Manual says to tighten this bolt after car motor has been started and allow to idle a bit.

I have been out of town for the weekend so I haven't worked on the mount. From the look of things it doesn't look like I will have time until later this week to give it another try.