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  #1  
Old 09-27-2007, 03:27 PM
meltedpanda's Avatar
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Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Central Ky
Posts: 6,268
W107 seat frame /adjustment questions

Well since the engine is apart and I am waiting for the parts to arrive, i think I might tackle the drivers seat issues. It is cantered a bit in the back, may have something bent, don't know , and the springs in the seat lean me a bit to the right. Seat in and out is easy, but question is has anyone rebuilt the seat by taking the leather off . I see on the other forums much talk about the W126 / W123 seats but not much on W107 seats, anyone here tackle it?

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2015 Porsche Cayman - Elizabeth
2011 Porsche Cayman - Bond,James Bond
Sadly MERCEDESLESS - ALways LOOKING !
99 E320 THE Queen Mary - SOLD
62 220b - Dolly - Finally my Finny! Sadly SOLD
72 450SL, Pearl-SOLD
16 F350 6.7 Diesel -THOR
19 BMW X5 - Heaven on Wheels
14 38HP John Deere 3038E Tractor -Mean Green
84 300SD, Benjamin -SOLD
71 220 - W115-Libby ( my first love) -SOLD
73 280 - W114 "Organspende" Rest in Peace
81 380 SL - Rest in Peace
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  #2  
Old 09-27-2007, 03:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by meltedpanda View Post
I see on the other forums much talk about the W126 / W123 seats but not much on W107 seats, anyone here tackle it?
I've redone the upholstery on two 107s. On both I swapped the seat base between driver and passenger side to balance out the leaning. I think people getting in and out over the course of 20-30 years has made the springs weak on the outside. Swapping the seats took care of it.

I've heard of broken springs, but I've never run into one. If I had, I'd take it to an auto upholstery place and see about getting a replacement spring. They're just standard S springs, and they shouldn't be too difficult to replace.

Getting the upholstery off is simple, but to get it back on after the seat is taken care of you'll need a pair of hogring pliers and hogrings. If you can't find any at an upholstery shop, look at a fencing supply company. They use hogrings with slightly thicker wire for fencing. A 3 lb. bag of hogrings and a pair of hogring pliers cost me a whopping $20, and I've still got enough to do three or four more cars. Buy the thinnest wire you can get, with sharp points to puncture the material.

Details and tips are included here:
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/r-c107-sl-slc-class/1315742-new-upholstery.html?highlight=new+upholstery
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  #3  
Old 09-28-2007, 09:14 PM
Whichard
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Winterville,North Carolina
Posts: 5
1986 560sl Seat reclining

Can you suggest any help for a driver's seat back reclining? I always have to turn the wheel to bring my seat back forward tilt to my normal setting. Is there anything that I can tighten?
Marcus Whichard
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  #4  
Old 09-28-2007, 09:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Whichard1 View Post
Can you suggest any help for a driver's seat back reclining? I always have to turn the wheel to bring my seat back forward tilt to my normal setting. Is there anything that I can tighten?
Marcus Whichard
My driver side in the 78 was doing this and it stopped after I changed the upholstery. While it was apart I noticed the wheel looked like someone had tried to pry it off and I used a hammer and screwdriver to tighten it back against the seat. That may have been the fix, or maybe it was something I did without knowing it while I was changing the upholstery. Either way, it stopped and I was happy.
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  #5  
Old 03-31-2008, 07:17 PM
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Help with Seat Supports 450SL

I bought upholstery covers for my front seats (79 450SL) and bought the book from **************.Com on how to restore. All has gone well until I get to the step where you take the side supports off the upper portion of the seat. The book is strangly silent on steps. There appears to be 4 bolts and for the life of me I can't get them out. I've had some stuck stuff on other parts, but I've always managed to get them loose. Is there some sort of trick? Also, the bar that runs through the middle that controls the recline - will I have to do something to get that out, or what?

Any help is much appreciated!
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  #6  
Old 03-31-2008, 07:40 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: new jersey
Posts: 74
The screws have locktight on them. I use a large phillips screwdriver. After removing the rear panel, I heat the screws with a tourch slightly applying pressure on the screw. They will loosen easily. Be very careful not to burn horsehair!!!!!!! Also, on the hexhead bolt, I use a pipe on allen key for leverage.
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  #7  
Old 03-31-2008, 08:49 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: KY USA
Posts: 2,238
Those screws are #$%#$%#$. I've stripped several (and bought genuine replacements, they are high-strength screws). After some serious cursing, I found that this will always work:

A breaker bar, an extension, and a #4 Philips socket (high quality, like Craftsman, etc). Put the seat on its side and press down with your body and turn. Do NOT let the Philips slip out. Don't forget to clean the threads on the welded-in nuts and use Locktite blue when replacing. Having these come loose while driving or in an accident would be extremely bad, and they see a lot of movement and stress.
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  #8  
Old 03-31-2008, 11:01 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 5
Wink Thanks

Of course, you were right! Thanks so much. FYI (for those of you who cook), a Creme Brulee torch works great. Its small enough to fit in there w/o risking setting fire to the whole works!
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  #9  
Old 04-01-2008, 09:57 AM
meltedpanda's Avatar
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Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Central Ky
Posts: 6,268
I had to use a breaker bar, and a large one at that, good idea on the torch,
__________________
Ron
2015 Porsche Cayman - Elizabeth
2011 Porsche Cayman - Bond,James Bond
Sadly MERCEDESLESS - ALways LOOKING !
99 E320 THE Queen Mary - SOLD
62 220b - Dolly - Finally my Finny! Sadly SOLD
72 450SL, Pearl-SOLD
16 F350 6.7 Diesel -THOR
19 BMW X5 - Heaven on Wheels
14 38HP John Deere 3038E Tractor -Mean Green
84 300SD, Benjamin -SOLD
71 220 - W115-Libby ( my first love) -SOLD
73 280 - W114 "Organspende" Rest in Peace
81 380 SL - Rest in Peace
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  #10  
Old 04-01-2008, 02:24 PM
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Posts: 24
Talking seats

the old mb seats are not the way to go,i modified the seat rails and instaled two seats from a 2007 tibron, they sit much much better than the mb seats. Dennis
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  #11  
Old 04-03-2008, 04:22 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Seattle WA
Posts: 496
I have to agree with Dennis, I have kept my old seats in case I sell her but have replaced them with a set out of a 2000 jaguar xj8. they need redying but are really comfortable, have electric everything and fit in with space to spare. My old seats were pretty shot (springing was gone but they looked OK) so now I sit about an inch higher, dont know if thats just because the old seats were so bad though. I also love the higher back and a usable headrest.

sorry to the perfectionists out there but I am really happy with them.
cheers
Barri
Attached Thumbnails
W107 seat frame /adjustment questions-seats-small1.jpg   W107 seat frame /adjustment questions-mercedes-seats-003.jpg  
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61 Austin mini
67 Lotus 7
74 450sl
76 Cadillac 8.2l (501 ci)

some new cars

megasquirt conversion on:
djet 74 450sl http://www.mercdjetmegasquirt.britautorepair.com/
cis 76 450sl http://www.merccismegasquirt.britautorepair.com/

the best view is always from the point of no return
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  #12  
Old 04-04-2008, 11:52 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 13
Gurunutkins, you said you put Jag seats in your car, I'm assuming it's the 450sl, how did you get them to mount into the sl and how did you run power for the electric everything? Will just about any car seats fit into an sl or only certain types?
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  #13  
Old 04-05-2008, 01:00 AM
Gurunutkins's Avatar
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Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Seattle WA
Posts: 496
HI Bobby
you have to be carefull on the choice of seats, the mercedes has a narrow seat area and the seat has to sit low but astride the cross member. I chose the jag xj8 seats as they have rails with mounting holes only 17 inches across but the rails then selves are long so I could mount behind the cross member and adjust forward on the motors.

I wired directly into ignition power (switched power) for the seat motors and the head rest motor. I am just looking for scrap heater switches at the junk yard to wire in the seat heaters. all of the jag electrics are mounted on the seat including all of the switches, relays and heater thermostat (another reason to choose the jag seats) so the only thin I have to get is the heater switches.

I am currently helping a friend replace his seats with some out of an audi a4 so will also post on how that goes.
cheers
Barri
__________________
61 Austin mini
67 Lotus 7
74 450sl
76 Cadillac 8.2l (501 ci)

some new cars

megasquirt conversion on:
djet 74 450sl http://www.mercdjetmegasquirt.britautorepair.com/
cis 76 450sl http://www.merccismegasquirt.britautorepair.com/

the best view is always from the point of no return
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  #14  
Old 04-05-2008, 02:09 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Ventura,Ca
Posts: 2
seat repairs

Quote:
Originally Posted by ScottinSoCal View Post
I've redone the upholstery on two 107s. On both I swapped the seat base between driver and passenger side to balance out the leaning. I think people getting in and out over the course of 20-30 years has made the springs weak on the outside. Swapping the seats took care of it.

I've heard of broken springs, but I've never run into one. If I had, I'd take it to an auto upholstery place and see about getting a replacement spring. They're just standard S springs, and they shouldn't be too difficult to replace.

Getting the upholstery off is simple, but to get it back on after the seat is taken care of you'll need a pair of hogring pliers and hogrings. If you can't find any at an upholstery shop, look at a fencing supply company. They use hogrings with slightly thicker wire for fencing. A 3 lb. bag of hogrings and a pair of hogring pliers cost me a whopping $20, and I've still got enough to do three or four more cars. Buy the thinnest wire you can get, with sharp points to puncture the material.

Details and tips are included here:
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/r-c107-sl-slc-class/1315742-new-upholstery.html?highlight=new+upholstery
I have purchase spring box assemblies from dealer and rubberized pads.The new covers wont last too long if you dont replace pads.I have done many,many MBZ's in my upholstery shop.The top isnt too bad either to do.Use breaker bar with phillips to tighten backrest side screws.The hardest part of job is getting locking tab over slot and in.Feel free too contact me for help.Ciao.
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  #15  
Old 04-05-2008, 02:12 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Ventura,Ca
Posts: 2
leather redye

You can contact Classicdyes.com for waterbase colorcoded matches for leather.Also purchase Triclean for prep clean.Good luck.ITS EASY.Dougf610
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gurunutkins View Post
I have to agree with Dennis, I have kept my old seats in case I sell her but have replaced them with a set out of a 2000 jaguar xj8. they need redying but are really comfortable, have electric everything and fit in with space to spare. My old seats were pretty shot (springing was gone but they looked OK) so now I sit about an inch higher, dont know if thats just because the old seats were so bad though. I also love the higher back and a usable headrest.

sorry to the perfectionists out there but I am really happy with them.
cheers
Barri

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