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  #1  
Old 10-12-2007, 09:55 AM
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107 Fuel Tank Removal & Install Lessons

If you are reading this, it is probably because you are having fuel supply problems with your SL. A very likely cause is that the strainer in the bottom of the tank is clogged. If this is the case, you should pull the tank and have it cleaned and possibly coated, since just cleaning the strainer will not solve the problem - it will only buy some time.

I just finished this job on a 380SL and wanted to offer some tips while the experience is still fresh in my mind.

The basic tasks in removing the tank for cleaning described in several posts and in the 107 manuals, but I would add the following:

- Order a new o-ring for the tank strainer so you will have it when you need it. The dealer may not have it in stock.

- Remove the hard top so you can access the fuel gauge sender and the two screws that hold the vapor tank

- If the battery is in the trunk, remove it and the case. This will make removal of the trunk bulkhead much easier

- Be sure to detach the return line on the left side of the tank before removing.

- There is a square-ish large rubber pad around the fuel outlet. If you remove it to unscrew the strainer or elect to replace it, be sure to install it with the thin side facing forward.

- Spray the rubber pad with silicon before installing the tank. This will allow it to slide into position more easily

- You can save some money if you replace the main tank outlet hose by cutting the swaging off the tank fitting with a hacksaw. Then you can use a hose clamp to attach the new hose to the fitting.
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Chuck Taylor
Falls Church VA
'66 200, '66 230SL, '96 SL500. Sold: '81 380SL, '86 300E, '72 250C, '95 C220, 3 '84 280SL's '90 420SEL, '72 280SE, '73 280C, '78 280SE, '70 280SL, '77 450SL, '85 380SL, '87 560SL, '85 380SL, '72 350SL, '96 S500 Coupe
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Old 10-12-2007, 03:19 PM
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It may have been just the age of our 280 (75) but removing the tank outlet hose, so we could remove and clean the tank, proved to be a major project. First tried a crowfoot on an extension and the impact wrench and got nowhere. Ended up cutting the hose off so a deep socket on the impact could be used. Seriously thought the bottom of the tank was going to be damaged.The hose fitting and the tank fitting were dissimilar metals. Guess MBz never heard of anti-sieze compounds. Anyway, POR-15 makes products that turn tank cleaning and sealing into a DIY project, which is what I had planned to post, not whinening.
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Old 10-12-2007, 07:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdhill View Post
It may have been just the age of our 280 (75) but removing the tank outlet hose, so we could remove and clean the tank, proved to be a major project. First tried a crowfoot on an extension and the impact wrench and got nowhere. Ended up cutting the hose off so a deep socket on the impact could be used. Seriously thought the bottom of the tank was going to be damaged.The hose fitting and the tank fitting were dissimilar metals. Guess MBz never heard of anti-sieze compounds. Anyway, POR-15 makes products that turn tank cleaning and sealing into a DIY project, which is what I had planned to post, not whinening.
I remember looking at mine on my 560SL (88) and thinking this could be bad. But it came right out. I'm not shure but I belive I did it with an open end wrench.

John Roncallo
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  #4  
Old 10-13-2007, 10:00 AM
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Two last tips

- When installing or removing the plastic shield for the pump/filter assembly, use a 10 mm socket on a 12" extension, and access two of the bolts that hold the shield to the frame through the two small holes int the bottom of the shield.

- Before you drop the car down, hook up the ground only to the pump. Put gas in the tank. Jumper the hot side of the pump from the battery. Run the pump for about 30 seconds, and you will hear a large gurgle from the tank as the air is pushed through the system and back to the tank. This is also your check for leakage. Then connect the positive wire to the pump, and start the car.
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Falls Church VA
'66 200, '66 230SL, '96 SL500. Sold: '81 380SL, '86 300E, '72 250C, '95 C220, 3 '84 280SL's '90 420SEL, '72 280SE, '73 280C, '78 280SE, '70 280SL, '77 450SL, '85 380SL, '87 560SL, '85 380SL, '72 350SL, '96 S500 Coupe
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  #5  
Old 10-16-2007, 03:45 AM
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The only other thing that I can add to all these excellent suggestions is when starting the job with fuel in the tank, the tank needs to be drained. Duh.
I pinched the main supply hose coming out of the tank with 2 pieces of 1 x 2 and a pair of trusty vise grips. I then dis-connected it from the fuel cluster and installed a ball valve into the end of the hose. Any valve will work. I then released the vice grips and drained at my leisure, opening and closing the ball valve as needed. I didn't spill a drop and the tank was full.
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  #6  
Old 10-17-2007, 09:03 PM
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While the tank was out, we went ahead and replaced some parts. For a 75, 280SL: fuel tank hose: 1164701575, fuel strainer: 2014700406, seal ring for strainer 1109970145, fuel filler neck gasket: 1154710079. All are available from ***************. We should probably mention that the gas tank is in the manuals associated with the engines and not the 107 chassis manual (figure that one out).
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  #7  
Old 01-03-2008, 04:27 PM
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Hello Mr. Taylor, Thanks for the effort, I appreiciate the thought in helping me solve my problem, you have done this before ,and don-t need to do it again, any way I will start here, O joy OH bliss, I am sure it is not a fun job, by the way I just bought this car in Virgina in Marion and was told the car ran perfect, the trip home to Canada was less than fun, but she got us home. Thank god for a solid body...... Mike
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Old 07-23-2014, 11:49 PM
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Reviving an old thread........

I've got the tank loose in the trunk and can't get the filler neck out of the fender and rubber seal. What technique is recommended? I've ordered a new rubber seal in case I have to destroy this one.
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  #9  
Old 03-14-2019, 01:56 AM
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Originally Posted by rmasteller View Post
Reviving an old thread........

I've got the tank loose in the trunk and can't get the filler neck out of the fender and rubber seal. What technique is recommended? I've ordered a new rubber seal in case I have to destroy this one.

Old thread for those who are googling .


Simply yank it out. It's nothing more than a suction fit.
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Going back to the original post: "Can you get the vac to blow instead?" No. Vacuums are low pressure so they by nature "suck" and nature abhors them.
1984 380SL
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