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Old 10-25-2007, 09:17 AM
kd4tsc's Avatar
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Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Taylors, (Greenville) SC
Posts: 14
Broken Bolt

First, I want to thank everyone for their input on replacing the 560 SL water pump. I had changed one on a '79 300SD with no problems, years ago, but when I tore into this one, I couldn't beleive the work involved.
These threads eductaed me on removing the crankshaft pully, harmonic balancer, etc... (in fact, they told me I had to do this first).
I did rotate the engine counter clockwise before I found this thread, though. Am I screwed?
Anyway, what led me to the waterpump was that the car was doing fine, with no noticeable leaks at all, then one day after I came in from work, I went back to the garage about an hour later, all of the coolant from the radiator and expansion bottle was on the garage floor. I was told this was more than likely the Water Pump. From what I could see with a flashlight, it appeared that it was wet behind the water pump. The car is an '86 560 SL. Well, thanks to a little trial and error (and finally this web site), I've gotten the water pump removed.
Now I'm the proud owner of TWO BROKEN BOLTS.
Has anyone ever broken their bolts off when removing the water pump?Can anyone give me some direction on how to remove those two broken bolts? One of them is the bolt at the bottom that lives behind the harmonic balancer and the other is the bolt which is around 7:00 to it. Sears sells a "Broken Bolt Removal System" for $59.00. Anyone have any experience with that.
Your input is greatly appreciated. We're down to a 420 SEL (wife's car) and a motorcycle for transportation - it's getting too cold for the motorcyle).
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Old 10-25-2007, 10:27 AM
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Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 10
broken bolt removal

If you are lucky you have enough bolt left to grab with a pair of visegrips and you can work it out. Otherwise your going to half to drill a hole in the center of the bolt and use an eazy out. I'm not familier with the sears item you mentioned. In either case I would start soaking the broken bolt with some penatrating oil to help break it free. Be carefull drilling and make sure you are in the center of the bolt. Remember to use never-sieze when assembling since it is an aluminum block.
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Old 10-25-2007, 10:51 AM
Super Moderator
Join Date: Apr 2000
Location: Falls Church, VA
Posts: 5,316
Whatever method you use, try heating the area around the bolt with a propane torch just before you try to remove the it. Another thing to try is, in addition to heating the block, chilling the bolt with a spray that you can get at Radio Shack in a small can.
Chuck Taylor
Falls Church VA
'66 200, '66 230SL, '96 SL500. Sold: '81 380SL, '86 300E, '72 250C, '95 C220, 3 '84 280SL's '90 420SEL, '72 280SE, '73 280C, '78 280SE, '70 280SL, '77 450SL, '85 380SL, '87 560SL, '85 380SL, '72 350SL, '96 S500 Coupe
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Old 10-25-2007, 11:25 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 91
I had a rather stubborn bolt that was on the way to breaking when my mechanic was trying to change the water pump on my m117 500 engine.

He called me up and said he didn't want to continue without my permission as ther was a 90% chance it would be seized in there and require the timing cover to be removed to get it out as it was the only long on that went all the way through.
I had the day off so I went to take a look and decided that, as were replacing the pump anyway we should drill through the casing around the bolt and remove the water pump from around the bolt. After it was removed we could lock vise grips at the base of the bolt as we wer undoing it, stopping the bolt from twisting and eventually breaking.

It costed alot more in time, but was alot cheaper than removing the timming case cover as most times you have to remove the heads also, to fit it back on

Think I was lucky in the end....
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Old 10-25-2007, 11:27 PM
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Automotive Nobbiest
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Barrie, Ontario
Posts: 821
Rather than go through it all, I have posted this thread for your perusal...
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Old 10-26-2007, 07:07 PM
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 96
drill and get the ez-out kit, alternate hot then cold and tap tap tap on the ezout once installed. If this does not work, then you would be looking at a heli coil after you have drilled out the bolt. In anticipation of possibly having to do the heli coil, make sure the ez-out hole is dead center of the bolt.

Also soak it for 24 hours with PB-Blast about the best penetrating oil around.
2001 ML 320
1988 560 SL
2009 Toyota Tundra TRD
1992 400 E (sold '07) (bought back, '13)
2008 ML 350
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Old 10-29-2007, 12:25 PM
kd4tsc's Avatar
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Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Taylors, (Greenville) SC
Posts: 14
Well, I've just decided to take it to my mechanic. It appears that he's done this sort of thing before. Hopefully, all I'll end up paying for is the removal of the two broken bolts, since I've already removed the W/P, Harmonic Bal., Radiator, Condenser, etc.. Of course, he may have to remove the timming cover, but at least with everything else out of the way, it should be easier for him.
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