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  #1  
Old 01-03-2008, 05:05 PM
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door check popping on 87 560SL

Hi,

I just bought a 1987 560SL & the door check is popping very loudly when closing it. I noticed some of the posts in this forum discussing other vehicles and a price of $30-$40 for a "door check strap". When I looked in the parts section in the "Buy Parts" tab, there was a "door check" at something like $170. Will I need to buy this $170 part to fix this or is there a less expensive way ?

Thanks in advance,

Brian
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  #2  
Old 01-04-2008, 04:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by briandownunda View Post
Hi,

I just bought a 1987 560SL & the door check is popping very loudly when closing it. I noticed some of the posts in this forum discussing other vehicles and a price of $30-$40 for a "door check strap". When I looked in the parts section in the "Buy Parts" tab, there was a "door check" at something like $170. Will I need to buy this $170 part to fix this or is there a less expensive way ?

Thanks in advance,

Brian
Yes, it looks like the price of a R107 check strap is about $142.50 and a R129 is $21.25. Go figure.

It would probably be a good idea to replace your door strap before it completely breaks and the door is stuck in the full out position. I had it happen to me. It's kind of scarey when you have to force the door shut so that you can get your car home or to a service technician. At the time I was concerned that I was breaking more parts inside the door. It turned out that it just destroys the strap and the door no longer functions correctly.
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2000 SL500 Silver
2000 SL500 SOLD
1989 560SL SOLD
1988 560SL SOLD

Last edited by lynns; 03-15-2008 at 11:37 PM.
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  #3  
Old 01-04-2008, 04:15 PM
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You can get a 'DOOR CHECK STRAP' p/n 1077200016 at www************
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2000 SL500 Silver
2000 SL500 SOLD
1989 560SL SOLD
1988 560SL SOLD

Last edited by lynns; 02-24-2008 at 09:23 PM.
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  #4  
Old 01-04-2008, 11:04 PM
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How do you know that the part # referenced for 132.50 is for the 107 ? The parts.com pages just says "door check", with no reference to vehicle, etc.

Thanks,

Brian
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  #5  
Old 01-05-2008, 01:48 AM
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Originally Posted by briandownunda View Post
How do you know that the part # referenced for 132.50 is for the 107 ? The parts.com pages just says "door check", with no reference to vehicle, etc.

Thanks,

Brian
If I tell you all of my secrets I will have to shoot you afterwards. LOL

But if your not comfortable with my information may I suggest that you take a look at the p/n and see that the first three numbers are 107. Then the next thing that you can do is give the p/n to your local M-B parts counter and ask them to confirm.

Are you located in Australia? If so where? I have family on the West Coast.
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2000 SL500 Silver
2000 SL500 SOLD
1989 560SL SOLD
1988 560SL SOLD

Last edited by lynns; 03-04-2008 at 12:32 PM.
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  #6  
Old 01-05-2008, 12:15 PM
MB, love..hate..love..
 
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Not knowing what you skill level is, and assuming that you would rather DIY than throw $ at the problem, it wouldn't be much to remove the unit and inspect it for either lack of lubrication and/or a crack in some part of the pressed steel assembly.
If there is a break, it wouldn't be very hard to straighten it out and MIG weld it back together. If the cast part is cracked, however, it's probably toast, but the weak link is definately the thin pressed steel bracket.
I've repaired several window mechanisms this way and have never had the part fail again where it cracked the first time. The older door checks were made of stiffer, ie. thicker, metal and didn't fail as readily.

[IMG]https://www.***************/secure/PartImages/1077200016.jpg[/IMG]
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  #7  
Old 01-05-2008, 03:27 PM
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Also make sure that the mounting area around the check isn't cracked also. We repair a lot of those areas on various cars.
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  #8  
Old 01-05-2008, 05:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by briandownunda View Post
How do you know that the part # referenced for 132.50 is for the 107 ? The parts.com pages just says "door check", with no reference to vehicle, etc.

Thanks,

Brian
Go here and sign up for online EPC. I'ts free for US residents or a small fee for the rest of the world. I have no idea why MB would charge anyone to have access to purchasing their parts.

http://www.startekinfo.com/StarTek/

John Roncallo
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  #9  
Old 02-24-2008, 09:02 PM
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Originally Posted by donbryce View Post
Not knowing what you skill level is, and assuming that you would rather DIY than throw $ at the problem, it wouldn't be much to remove the unit and inspect it for either lack of lubrication and/or a crack in some part of the pressed steel assembly.
If there is a break, it wouldn't be very hard to straighten it out and MIG weld it back together. If the cast part is cracked, however, it's probably toast, but the weak link is definately the thin pressed steel bracket.
I've repaired several window mechanisms this way and have never had the part fail again where it cracked the first time. The older door checks were made of stiffer, ie. thicker, metal and didn't fail as readily.

[IMG]https://www.***************/secure/PartImages/1077200016.jpg[/IMG]
I have the same door pop on my 1985 380SL - I believe the picture you sent is the correct door check for my car. I would rather do it myself than pay some one. Any helpful hints you could provide on how to do this would be appreciated.
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  #10  
Old 02-25-2008, 07:32 AM
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what does this do?,my 1979 450 makes this sound when the door is opened,i am a retired aircraft tech. i think i can fix mine. Dennis
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  #11  
Old 02-25-2008, 08:24 AM
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I drove my 74 450sl for 15 years without a check in the driver's door. It was kind of neat the way the door would close itself gently by gravity, but you had to be careful it didn't get away from you when you opened it on a windy day.
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  #12  
Old 03-04-2008, 10:59 AM
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PAY SOMEONE TO DO THIS! Once you get into the door you have about 3 inches to get a 7 inch part into the door. You also have to remove the window motor. The picture is the correct part for the 107. The 129's use a less engineered "strap." You might be able to lubricate to reduce noise OR replace spring. The brass part of the door check is inside the door - the allen screw on the door jamb is what holds it in place. MAJOR PIA!
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  #13  
Old 03-15-2008, 09:37 PM
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Question

Thanks for the insights I did tighten the allen screw and all was OK. Lasted a few weeks and the 'clicking' noise returned. Any ideas besides taking it to the shop?
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  #14  
Old 03-15-2008, 10:09 PM
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Originally Posted by capeboater View Post
Thanks for the insights I did tighten the allen screw and all was OK. Lasted a few weeks and the 'clicking' noise returned. Any ideas besides taking it to the shop?
When I first got my car both doors clicked badly. I bought a tube of lithium grease and lubed it several times over the course of a couple of weeks. I used a long q-tip to work the grease all the way into the door. That was over a year ago and they still open and close quietly.

The door check is badly worn, and I will eventually replace them, but it hasn't been necessary yet.
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  #15  
Old 03-15-2008, 11:35 PM
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Originally Posted by capeboater View Post
Thanks for the insights I did tighten the allen screw and all was OK. Lasted a few weeks and the 'clicking' noise returned. Any ideas besides taking it to the shop?
Door check straps need to replaced on both R107's and R129's. That's just the nature of the beast. So try calling several Indys and ask them the cost. Be sure and get the guy's name that quotes you.
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2000 SL500 Silver
2000 SL500 SOLD
1989 560SL SOLD
1988 560SL SOLD
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