560SL cluster removal
 

My odometer/trip meter on the 560SL stopped at 39,999.9 miles a week ago and I plan to yank the cluster and fix it. I did the job on my 240D, so I suspect it will be the same here. Since the steering wheel has to come off, I'd like to attend to anything else that ought to be done while the wheel is off and the cluster is out. I plan to replace all the bulbs while it's out. I just had the wheel off a couple of months ago to fix the SRS light issue. I did clean the contact rings at that time. What else should I do while everything is apart?

Also, should I get the cluster removal "tool" to do the job? On my 240D I didn't need it because I could push the cluster out from below and behind.

Thanks.

You can use a bent coat hanger or welding rod to remove the cluster. I would also check the windshield wiper transmission. Make sure the intermediate bellcrank bearing support is firmly bolted to the chassis (2 6mm bolts). I would also replace the bulb in the headlight switch.

John Roncallo

I've done a bunch, including at least one that I'm very sure had never been out, and never needed the removal tools.

Judging by the miles you have a nice clean car and I think that coat hanger wire is a little thick for this - I bought springy (piano) wire from a hobby shop for $2.00 and made 3 sets out of them (sorry, gave the other two away). It's much thinner. In any event do NOT distort the dashboard plastic surrounding the instrument cluster when removing it, because that (old, dried out) plastic may crack.

When I removed mine on my '78 SL-C, it just slid out, be careful and lightly move it side to side while pulling it foward, BE GENTLE!, mine didnt have any sort of retention devices keeping it in place and plenty of line to remove the electrical connections. I believe to remove the oil fitting, an 8mm box wrench is approperiate, and the steering wheel nut is a 27mm. I used that and a breaker bar, came right off and the wheel pulled right out. Be certain to mark the hub's position on the shaft to make installation easy.

Thanks for the replies guys. The EPPC shows twelve bulbs, eleven the same, in the cluter - never realized there were that many.

The EPC is actually wrong. There are three different bulbs used. There are tiny ones with an integrated socket and tiny ones without a socket and then some larger ones. Dont forget the headlight switch.

John Roncallo

Thanks John. I didn't even know I had a headlight switch. I thought you were referring to the light in the center of the headlight knob that lights up for the Euro models when the rear fog light is turned on. You made me go out to the car and look and there sure is a light there to light up the perimeter of the headlight switch to show what position you are in. I never knew that - hardly ever have driven the car at night.

You don't happen to have the breakdown of the bulbs I need do you? If not, I guess I can wait until I pull the cluster and find out.

I actually bought the tools from my MB dealer. $14.00 for the pair and he gave me all the correct bulbs I needed. Brightened up the cluster considerably.

Len, it would be great for those of us who never removed the cluster, if you could provide details of your experience. I would especially be interested in the wheel removal (airbag) and the tools you needed for the whole job. Thanks.

Okay, I'll try to take a few pix and document the job. Might be a couple of weeks though.

I am subscribed as well. I am very interested in removal of the airbag -- does it need to be done apart from removing the steering wheel? -- is this (removing the cluste) a difficult job? The center chrome/steel colored cap from the left most guage set has fallen off and is just sitting there -- it would be nice to be able to open up that area and stick the cap back into place. I don't suppose there is any easy way to do this other than remove the cluster?

Thanks

You've got to get into the gauge cluster to replace the silver button on the gauge (with the smallest dab of JB-weld or similar).

In doing this work, it's a great opportunity to:

1. Repaint the needles
2. Clean/polish the plastic front lens and light gauges

I have some instructions here in a PDF (link at the top of the page):

http://juliepalooza.8m.com/sl/dashes.htm

use at your own risk, etc. It is possible to get into some nasty situations if you are not careful.

Extremely well written instructions -- thanks

Loose as a Goose
 

John, that is a great suggestion! When I checked my 560SL's bellcrank bolts, the lower of the two wasn't even finger-tight. I put about 5 turns on that one before it snugged-up. The upper was tight, as well as the three wiper motor nuts.

My rotary switch has a rubber boot over it. Is the bulb hiding inside? I don't see an easy way to slide the boot back...too jammed up with wires galour. I would cut the boot off (it's doing that degenerating-to-crumbs thing), but there are numerous wire terminals on the perimeter of that assembly. It would be nice if the whole thing pushed forward out of the dashboard.