380SL Valve Seal Replacement

[lphilyaw]

I have a 1981 380 that exhibits classic valve seal problems, and am wondering if anyone knows of a step by step instruction on this project. I tried buying a shop manual cd on ebay, & found it totally unusable, & it didn't do what it was supposed to. I would like to get a paper factory manual, but can't find one. How difficult is this job, and am I going to need special tools? I am a decent mechanic (although it's been 30 years since any serious engine rebuilding), and can follow directions. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

[ctaylor738]

First of all, have you done a Search on the Forum?

If that doesn't yield anything useful, I suggest you either go to Alldatadiy.com and buy a subscription for the 380, or get a genuine Mercedes CD. Both have the procedure.

It's tedious, but not difficult. You need a valve spring compressor that will work with overhead cams. And there is information about engine numbers that you will want to pay attention to.

Good luck,

[Philoprof]

The procedure for replacing valve seals on the M116 is very similar, if not identical, to this one: http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/M103ValveSeals.

[JPMOSE]

I don't know the procedure but can tell you on my 560SL oil consumption when from 1 qt/550 miles to 1 qt/5000 miles.

Thought I'd pass on some words of encouragement!

[lphilyaw]

[quote=ctaylor738;1833328]First of all, have you done a Search on the Forum?

I did do a search & found a good description of the process in the Tech Forum. It is for a W126, but I suspect it is similar. It looks involved, but I think I will try it. Thanks!
Larry
1981 380SL
1988 560SL
1966 230SL
1979 300 TD

[lphilyaw]

Originally Posted by Philoprof

The procedure for replacing valve seals on the M116 is very similar, if not identical, to this one: http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/M103ValveSeals.

Thanks, also. Between this and the one on the tech forum for the 126, I think I've got enough info to go ahead. I am considering using the old rope trick instead of air pressure to hold the vavles in place while removing/installing the seals. This used to work with aircraft engines, and it seems easier than messing with trying to get exact TDC then holding it there while appling the air. Anyway, thanks all, and the oil consumtion note IS encouraging, although my problem is not so much one of oil consumption as terrible blue smoke on start-up that goes away as soon as the engine is warm.