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W107 560SL Door Panel Removal and Installation
Just finished complete R&R of both doors on my 560SL. I used Steve Loboyko's article http://juliepalooza.8m.com/sl/door.pdf and the Mercedes shop manual, both excellent sources. I'll assume you have read both.
My intent here is to provide some additional detail to the removal process, and more importantly, to provide a 'hands-on' how-to for the re-installation procedure, not covered as well in either document IMO. Removal 1. Remove handle trim plate. On the driver's door, the cover plate (chrome piece in between handle and lock lever) has a tiny hole in the lower left corner. Insert a small screwdriver and gently wedge it out, working gently around until it pops out. On the passenger door, carefully wedge the armrest trim cover with a flat screwdriver on the sides, to release it from the clips. Wiggle it down to access the screw. 2. Both doors, remove the attaching screw under the trim plate/armrest trim, then the large screw under the rear part of the armrest (set deep inside the armrest, use a light to line up the screwdriver tip). 3. Both doors, remove the front and rear chrome trim plates, which have 3 small screws each. The front one is best removed with a stubby phillips. The rear should be removed using the Mercedes 'tool' to avoid scratching the plate as it comes down. I made one up from a piece of that blow-mold packaging plastic we all love to hate (see picture) 4.Both doors, remove the lock trim plate, 2 screws. On my 560SL, it wasn't necessary to remove the screw at the front holding the door pocket to the panel (open door fully to see it just under the air intake duct). 5. At this point, the door panel is secured only with clips. See the pictures below: 1 plastic hook at the front, 1 steel hook in the middle, 1 steel clip at the back, 8 plastic round clips along the bottom, (pictured below) and 4 steel clips along the top (pictured next post....continued).
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1986 560SL 2002 Toyota Camry 1993 Lexus Last edited by donbryce; 06-04-2008 at 08:37 PM. |
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Door panel removal/re-install continued
(continued)
6. Use a flat tool like a scraper to wedge the 8 plastic clips out at the panel bottom, being careful to put pressure as close to the clip as possible, preferably using a blade on each side of each clip. You're trying to avoid tearing the clip out of the panel or breaking it. Both are likely, so be prepared to visit the local parts store for suitable replacements. 7. Using the same tool, and method, pop out the rear steel clip. This one I found stubborn, and both came out of their panel holes. I used pliers to squeeze the clip and remove it from the slot in the door. 8. Gently wedge out the chrome plastic triangles from the mirrors. The passenger side can be removed completely, while it's easier to tape the driver side one up out of the way to avoid removing the control handle. You need room to raise the panel out of the clips holding it along the top of the door. The pictures show the male clips on the panel and one of the female clips on the door. 9. Using something that won't mar or tear the trim or sealing rubber, gently but firmly pry the panel upwards along the top, at points aproximately where the clips are located. My 560SL had 4 male clips on each panel, 5 female clips on the door. I used a flat scraper and a plastic body fill applicator as a wedging tool. 10. The panel should now be free of the door except for the front plastic hook and the center steel hook. Pull up and out on the front to release the front hook. Do not pull out until you feel (or can see with a light) that it has cleared the lip on the door, or you may easily break it. 11. The steel center hook is very strong, as it also doubles as one of the armrest attchments. I found it best to push in on the panel a bit while pulling upward, then out as it almost clears the lip. Re-Attachment This is the fun part. I wrote down what I found to work best as I went along, and both panels went right back on without a hitch. I needed to replace the broken front hook with a steel piece screwed into what was left of the plastic hook, several of the round plastic clips, and re-position one of the top female clips so the male part on the panel would line up. The following assumes all clips are in order. 1. Engage the center steel hook first into the hole, not all the way, just catch the lip of the hole with the tang. 2. Tilt the panel up at the front, pivoting on the center clip, then lower and just engage the front hook. If the center hook comes out, start over. You're trying to just get each hook to hold the lip of it's hole, but still be able to push them down to seat them fully. 3. Line up and engage the frontmost steel clip at the top, then the rearmost clip. You can't see these at all, but you'll be able to feel them and can tell where you are at by lining up visually the aluminum trim strips. The panel should be higher, of course. 4. Recheck the front and center hooks, then push down along the top to seat the top clips. Several passes will be needed to get them all in, at which point the front and center hooks will also have been seated. 5. Get down with a light and recheck all 8 lower plastic clips and reposition them to align with their holes. The above steps will dislodge them. Push them in with the heel of your hand. 6. Push the rear clip into it's slot, re-attach all the trim pieces, and you're done.
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1986 560SL 2002 Toyota Camry 1993 Lexus Last edited by donbryce; 06-04-2008 at 08:43 PM. |
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Thanks, Don.
It's detailed how-to's like this that make the forum so valuable. |
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Nice write-up and pics. Thanks. Ned
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very nice!
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http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/l...aman/Fleet.jpg Peach Parts W124.128 User Group. 80 280SL 85 300SD 87 300TD 92 300D 2.5 Turbo 92 300TE 4Matic |
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Thanks for taking the time to take the photos. For us newbies, these are invaluable for help. I have been saving all the threads that pertain to what needs to be done to my MBZ and this will certainly be included. Thanks again.
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Ben Chief wrench for Niki's '84 MBZ SL380 |
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