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#1
07-03-2008, 10:37 PM
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82 380SL - is this the Bowden cable
last question for now!! Is this the infamous Bowden cable I need to carefully adjust for proper shifting? This photo is taken from the left hand side of the vehicle looking down the firewall behind the engine...
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#2
07-06-2008, 03:57 PM
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Ja. And the adjustment is on the shorter connector toward the top of your picture. - Changed from earlier answer.
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Chuck Taylor Falls Church VA '66 200, '66 230SL, '96 SL500. Sold: '81 380SL, '86 300E, '72 250C, '95 C220, 3 '84 280SL's '90 420SEL, '72 280SE, '73 280C, '78 280SE, '70 280SL, '77 450SL, '85 380SL, '87 560SL, '85 380SL, '72 350SL, '96 S500 Coupe Last edited by ctaylor738; 07-07-2008 at 01:35 PM.
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#3
07-07-2008, 11:06 AM
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Chuck
Thank you. I am surprised then that none of the posts recognize the near impossible access to the cable. Looks like a lie on top the engine job to me......
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#4
07-07-2008, 12:25 PM
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?
What exactly are you trying to do? You don't adjust the cable, you adjust the connector, and it's not hard to get at.
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Chuck Taylor Falls Church VA '66 200, '66 230SL, '96 SL500. Sold: '81 380SL, '86 300E, '72 250C, '95 C220, 3 '84 280SL's '90 420SEL, '72 280SE, '73 280C, '78 280SE, '70 280SL, '77 450SL, '85 380SL, '87 560SL, '85 380SL, '72 350SL, '96 S500 Coupe
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#5
07-07-2008, 12:49 PM
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What I'm trying to do -
Chuck
I need to look at the car again to understand your note - I am trying to understand how to adjust the cable. Without the car beside me I can't visualize exactly where the adjuster is. I want to do this because the tranny is reluctant to downshift on steady uphills unless I kick it down by flooring the gas pedal . The kickdown switch works fine! Several posters have told me it's the cable adjustment at fault. The poor girl loses rpm and you have to downshift with the shifter (oh for a manual tranny on my 380SL) However I don't know if I should be tightening or loosening said cable. My interest in vac comes from a flare problem, especially on a 2/3 upshift - which I've been told could be a vacuum problem to the modulator valve, a modulator valve adjustment problem or a poor modulator valve itself. However if the tranny is like my 300SD's, until the vac system is correct then further diagnosis is tricky to impossible. The interesting twist is that the flare is at its worst when the car is cold and it moderates as the engine and tranny reach full operating temp. Am I on the right track? RL I am a neophyte at automatic trannys as my SD's has luckily been AOK and I have never had to footer around with it. Definitely at the 101 stage of learning.
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#6
07-07-2008, 01:48 PM
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Like I said, you don't touch the cable, you adjust the length of the rod that connects the cable's bell crank to the linkage bellcrank. I indicated the wrong rod in my previous post (now corrected).
I have edited your picture. The rod you adjust is circled in yellow. You shorten the rod to raise the shift point on upshifts. I don't think it will do much for downshifts - that's more a modulator issue. You might get away with a new modulator but ( and I hate to say this) your clutch packs are probably on their way out. My 1981 380 did the exact same thing. I wasted at least $800 on having the pressures checked, a service with synthetic fluid, and a rebuilt valve body. What I really needed was a rebuilt transmission.
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Chuck Taylor Falls Church VA '66 200, '66 230SL, '96 SL500. Sold: '81 380SL, '86 300E, '72 250C, '95 C220, 3 '84 280SL's '90 420SEL, '72 280SE, '73 280C, '78 280SE, '70 280SL, '77 450SL, '85 380SL, '87 560SL, '85 380SL, '72 350SL, '96 S500 Coupe
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