Data cable on 2001 SLK 320

[garyoehrle]

Greetings, I hope I got the right forum for my question.

A local mechanic advised me to replace the data cable/plug between the transmission and electronics box because it had oil on it. The repair was not cheap but he indicated if it was not done it would seap into the electronics and cause even more expenses.

The cable I find is just behind the fly wheel housing on the right side front
of the transmission. It has what I could call a light coating of oil and grim on it, not enough to blacken my finger. That is if it is the right cable.

I should note the car only has 37,7xx orginal miles and is driven by my wife for her 2+ miles to work and maybe some past road trips of several hundred miles. besides road dust the engine, transmisson are very clean and other oil to speak of. I did open
the electronics box and no signs of any oil or grim.

Questions:
1. is that the cable in question? if not where is it?

2. has anyone had this problem before or am I just being taken for a
unnecessary repair.

Thanks
Gary

[matthias08]

I'm gonna go out on a limb @ say this isn't needed, altho. I could be wrong


my parents have 38k on their '01 SLK 320 6speed && nothing of the sorts has been done.

the harmonic balancer had failed, and was replaced per recall, the rear convertible boot & the 2 folding tabs have failed causing a little oops.

thats been everything out of scheduled maint. that has been/or needed done.

[sokoloff]

The 722.6 transmission is known to leak via the O rings in the electrical connector. If the leak is bad enough and doesn't get caught in time, ATF can wick up the cable and damage the electronics in the control box. Sounds to me like the leak wasn't bad enough to need the change yet, but it certainly sounds like the connector plug with the O rings needed to be changed, but that a ten dollar part.

[slk230red]

I went through this on my 2001 SLK230. The O-Rings on the connector/spacer started leaking so I replaced the connector with the new and improved version. I let the connector cable hang down for a while so any fluid could drip off.
This was several years ago and no problems. If I were you I would replace the connector/spacer.

Here's the link for the write-up for replacing the part.
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/r170-slk-class/1309980-repairing-transmission-fluid-leak-post2287316.html?posted=1#post2287316

Old part




New part

[garyoehrle]

Thanks for the information, I will see about doing it myself as I have a lift the garage and therefore easy access the underside of the car. I will keep the thread posted on my progress.

SLKred
Can you send me the 3 ot 4 .jpg files via email, I am not a member of the Benz World network and it will not allow me to access. That is if it does not create and copywrite or ownership issues. Thx.

Gary

[slk230red]

Originally Posted by garyoehrle

Thanks for the information, I will see about doing it myself as I have a lift the garage and therefore easy access the underside of the car. I will keep the thread posted on my progress.

SLKred
Can you send me the 3 ot 4 .jpg files via email, I am not a member of the Benz World network and it will not allow me to access. That is if it does not create and copywrite or ownership issues. Thx.

Gary

I did the write up, so here is the information I posted.

Also, here is another good MB transmission repair link:
http://www.installuniversity.com/mb/w203/w203/trans_oring.html


Repairing Transmission Leak, March 2007.

Okay, so I backed my car out of the garage and noticed a puddle of fluid on the floor. Upon inspection I determined it was transmission fluid and I looked under the car and noticed fluid droplets on the transmission pan. After searching this forum I decided to replace the Electrical Connection Spacer that goes into the front of the transmission on the passenger side.

When I asked for the part at the dealer the parts guy said there was a newer version for $8.19.

I jacked up the car on the passenger side and had enough clearance to remove the electrical connector. First, I removed the connector cover using a T-27 Torx bit, then I removed the wiring harness from the clip on side of plate, then pulled down on the plate to remove it. I then moved the tab on the spacer from the 11 o'clock position to the 7 o'clock position and the electrical connector came out of the spacer. If yours is leaking expect it to be saturated with transmission fluid. Then, with a pan underneath, I untightened the bolt in the center of the spacer with a 7mm socket and pulled the old spacer out of the transmission. I lost about 3 ounces or so of fluid. The inside o-ring did not come out with the old spacer, so I reached my finger inside the hole and pulled it out.

I let the electrical connector hang down in the pan to drain any fluid that might be in the wiring harness or connector. I put some clean trans. fluid on the o-rings of the new spacer before installing it, then tightened the screw and I removed any fluid from inside the spacer before installing the elecrical connector. Remember to put the tab at the 7 o'clock position to re-install the connector and turn it clockwise until it locks in place. I wiped everything down around the connector/spacer, re-installed the cover and took the car for short test drive. Since everything looked okay, I drove the car longer before checking the transmission fluid level. I added a few ounces to get it in range.

*Note* My old spacer has red o-rings and the new one has black o-rings.
New part #2035400253
Old part#1602700250

This should only take about an hour to do....depends on your skills, tools, etc.

[garyoehrle]

I replaced the data cable/plug today. Thanks for all the on line
documentation of those who have done this before me as it made
the task very easy and straight forward. took me longer than an
hour due to not wanting to screw something up.

I guess I took longer than necessary as I lost about two cups of transmission fluid in the process. It just seemed to keep out in a slow ooze. No big deal as it got replaced when I was done with new.

I did not have a mm socket set or torx bits and bought sets verses just the 7mm and T27. Some sets from Sears cost about $50 to $60 dollars but I hope to use them again.

The local non MB shop want $350 to do the work with parts. My cost
no including tools $14.86 plug, $25.13 transmission fluid and $2.12 for the lock pin on the trans fluid ca. I am dollars ahead.

Thanks Again for all the posts on this topic. A big help in doing it myself.

Gary Oehrle