380 Seat Height Spring is loose
The passenger seat on my 380SL was impossible to adjust forward/backward and up/down. I removed the seat and found that the rails were solid with (I guess) old lubricant. I cleaned the old stuff out and regressed the rails/runners. So far A OK! Next I found that the BIG spring that looks to control the seat up/down adjustment was only connected at one end! I have a feeling the previous owner tried to fix the unit and couldn't. So I said, I'll just finish the job. Not a good idea. I spent probably 2 hours trying to attach the loose end of the spring to the under seat opening in the frame. Mission Impossible! Can this be done by a DIY person? Is there any special tool to use for this job? Any one know how this should be done?
Any ideas will be appreciated. Thanks |
Which spring are you talking about ...the one on the adjusting lever, or the big one under the seat?
I detached the big one so my seat stays in the lowest position all the time. Before, the seat would raise itself uninvited and I had no luck adjusting the mechanism to stop it. I needed the headroom anyway. |
Seat Spring Problem
I am talking about the big spring under the seat. It is almost impossible to expand enough without a crane!
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If you want, I could provide dimensions for you to make your own. |
Seat Spring Tool
That is a neat tool. I tried everything and anything in the garage but couldn't get me and the tool in the space available. Any thing you could provide would be appreciated. I'm sure I can fabricate some thing like it.
Thanks a million. Bob Chapman |
I did this with a bottle jack and a block of wood, but it's still dangerous, watch your fingers.
There is no reason to remove this spring when removing your seats and/or reupholstering them, as I found out :( |
1 Attachment(s)
Here's the shop manual specification for the 'local manufacture' tool :rolleyes:
(adobe file at the bottom) Basically, it's just a long bar with a hook that you hold on the front of the riser, the pivot point, and pull the spring back using the mechanical advantage of the leverage from the bar. I made mine from some scrap 1/4" X 1" flat bar stock (pic from the old thread). I cut the main bar 2ft long, and drilled 2 holes, one at the bottom/end, and another 3 1/2" from the end. I cut the second piece 8 1/2" long, with a hole drilled in the end of it, and 3 holes at the other end. I used a 3" bolt into the end hole of the long bar to make a 'T' at the bottom so the bar won't twist as it rests against the riser. This is like the welded pipe in the shop manual drawing. The hole 3 1/2" up this bar is used to attach the second piece, using a bolt and nut. This is like the long hook in the drawing. The 3 other holes were for adjustment to position the 'S' hook that I used to attach the tool to the spring. I think almost any piece of stock, even pipe, could be used to make the long lever, and the hook could be as simple as a piece of heavy wire or even cable, but I'd use something very heavy duty to make certain the spring doesn't come off while stretched!http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...8&d=1212970231 |
This tool works like a champion. 20 minutes to make and 1 minute to attach the spring. I'll share mine if you need one. Email me.
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