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-   -   1982 500sl (euro) questions (http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/mercedes-benz-sl-discussion-forum/26716-1982-500sl-euro-questions.html)

ktabb 11-19-2001 08:47 PM

1982 500sl (euro) questions
 
I'm new to the forum, and a new Mercedes owner. I know less than nothing about cars, and I've got a few stupid questions. Just bought a 1982 500sl with 81,000 miles for $3500. It needs some work, but overall mechanically seems to be in good shape. The guy I bought it from bought it 2 and a half years ago, put 8000 miles on it, and did the following things to it:
1. Rebuilt transmission (3000 miles ago)
2. Flushed radiator, replaced radiator fan ctrl switch, temp. gauge sensor, top main radiator hose, thermostat (put in the original mb part), "T" radiator hose, hose from thermostat cover to intake manifold, soldered top hose connection to radiator to fix small leak
3. Replaced idle control unit
4. Replaced fuel pump
5. Replaced rotor and distributor cap
6. Replaced bent center link and work tie in steering
7. New black ragtop
8. New Pirelli Z tires and wheels
9. Disassembled and rebuilt dashboard/int. console

Had a mechanic check it who told me that compression was good, the steering gear box leaks and needs to be replaced and that the valve cover gasket is seeping a small amt. of engine oil. Additionally, the AC doesn't work.

Now to the questions/things bothering me:

1. Runs hot: There are really two issues:
a. Immediately after starting and running for a few minutes, the temp. runs all the way up to red line(120 c) and then immediately drops. I assume that this is simply the late opening thermostat, although I don't know if it should run up this high before opening.
b. The more worrying thing is it runs hot generally. It is cool here (low to mid 60s). If I am just going around town, or moving quickly on the freeway, seems to be okay at between 90 and 100. However, in stop and go, or going up hills, it'll run up to 110 pretty easily. I'm worried that I can't really take it on long trips if this is the case. Considering everything he has done with the cooling system already, any suggestions? If the radiator needs to be rodded, recored (?), is this something you would have done at a mercedes mechanic, or a radiator shop?

2. Too much play in the steering: There is really a lot of play in the steering. Is this related to the leaky steering gearbox? How much would it cost to fix something like this?

I apologize for the long windedness, appreciate answers help that I could get.

elau 11-20-2001 10:34 AM

Ktabb,
First of all, congratulation on your new SL. It is the finest car in my opinion. For your over heating problem, do a search and you will find plenty of discussions/fixes. Don't quote me, but I think most of the V8 run rather hot anyway. Just to sum it up, have you replaced the thermostat? According to many members, they will tell you even a new one can fail. My R129 runs pretty hot most of the time, but the aux fan will come on once it past 110. You may also want to check if your aux fan is functioning. My other suggestion is to make sure your coolant mix ratio is correct, and it never hurts to put a bottle of Water Wetter in your coolant. You should not have to worry about taking the car for long trip, highway speed should cool your car down unless you have something major wrong in your cooling system.


87 W124
95 R129
98 W163

ericdee 11-20-2001 06:11 PM

Running hot:

Pull the thermostat out, to see how it runs. If it still runs hot check the radiator for cold spots on the end-tanks when the car is running hot, if you have cold spots on the end-tanks the radiator is clogged. Here is the part you may not what to hear you could have a blow head or cracked block.

Too much play in the steering:

The steering boxes do start to show wear at 80-90k, cost $500-900 with labor. Sloppiness may also be from bad subframe mounts, worn A-arm bushings, bad tie rods, etc.

livesound2 11-29-2001 07:24 PM

1985 380 SL
 
Hello, I to am new to forum. Own 85 380 SL and love it to death. Would like to thank all ahead of time for a great site. Would like to know if anyone knows what the buzzing sound eminating from rear of car easily heard while stopped and at idle. Is this fuel pump buzz I've read about ? Also wonder about occasional loss of power during acceleration. Usually runs excellent but often seems to lack what it sometimes has ?? Any responses would be appreciated.

Turbo240 11-30-2001 05:12 PM

It is indeed the fuel pump that you hear. If you are not familiar with its location, it is just behind and under the chassis from where you sit. Power problems, too many variables. Congrats on getting a a fine car, hope you enjoy it.

Rob

livesound2 12-01-2001 06:15 PM

85 380 SL
 
Thanks for the quick response. I've driven the car 20K miles over the past 4 years and wonder if the fuel pump issue will leave me on the side of the road. Is it something I can replace myself with minimum effort? Also I've not had to do any maintainence except oil and wonder what I should begin to do preventively. Thanks again.

Turbo240 12-02-2001 03:27 PM

On the fuel pump, it is not a big thing to change if and when it is necessary. I personally would not change it as a preventive maintenance item. If you haven't changed the fuel filter since you have owned the car you may want to do that (not a big job either), since a filter that is pretty well plugged will have a tendency to make the fuel pump work a little harder, and hence be a little noisier when operating.
As far as preventive maintenance on the vehicle, just the usual items for any car, regular oil and filter changes, (I prefer 5k on this instead of the 7.5k that is in the book), check the air and fuel filters and change on a regular basis also (30k). Transmission should be serviced at 30K intervals also, (probably would want an independent shop or the dealer to do this item, messy). Just eyeball the belts ocassionally. The interval for spark plug change that I use is 30k unless you do a lot of start and stop driving with cold engine, then I would change plugs at 15k. You won't notice a big change in performance or fuel mileage with spark plug changes. The injection system is pretty much maintenance free, as far as preventive maintenance goes, Just use good quality fuel, and try to avoid purchasing old water laden gasoline that has been sitting in the ground forever. You can use one of the fuel additives that is supposed to disperse moisture, and clean the injectors occasionally also if you want. Other than that just enjoy.

Rob

livesound2 12-03-2001 08:27 PM

thank you
 
Thank you, Thank you.:) :)

ebennz 12-04-2001 01:04 PM

livesound2- where do you live in wild and wonderful west viginia?

i live in teays valley.

peter

kenneth higgins 01-04-2002 03:38 PM

operating temp: replace the thermostat (with a lower range value?) or do as the other fellow pointed out and try running it without the 'stat to see if your getting good circulation (start the car with the cap loosened and look in cap opening for the flow... carefully!)

another fairly common problem with heating systems after replacment / draining is that the can be air locks. this is unlikely in your case since you've run the car a bit... but make sure you run it with the heating full on for a few minutes to let all air collect in the main radiator.

steering: after replacing a bent drag-link... i would hazard a guess that you will need at least a proper rebuild of the steering box and more than likely a replacement unit.

all the best
kh.


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