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-   -   450SL 1978 after being parked for 3 years (http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/mercedes-benz-sl-discussion-forum/267245-450sl-1978-after-being-parked-3-years.html)

khaledfarid 12-11-2009 01:01 PM

450SL 1978 after being parked for 3 years
 
Hi everyone, I have a 450SL 1978 with only original 44000 miles on it, I am the second owner, I bought it 5 years ago and really enjoyed it. I own my own business and I got so busy that I parked it for over three years, I started it every two weeks and let it run for about 15 minutes. lately, I noticed that it has been running too rich ( from the smell, very strong ), I also noticed that the pipe right before the rear muffler had a hole of a bout 4 inch long by 1/10 th of an inch. I bought the muffler and put it on and it atill smells too righ with the same strong smell. It doesn't smoke and it starts right up first time ebery time. it stumbles for about 5 secondes right after starting and then it smoothes out. It runs high RPM till it warms up then it idles down smooth. This SL is the cleanest most original SL I've seen and I want to keep it original and running top notch. It still have the original Becker with the mechanical search tuning and the A/C is still R12 and everything works perfect. Any ideas where to start on the rich running condition. Also, although it's very low miles, I'm getting worried about the chain rail guides so I started to order new ones but I found several on the parts websites, I also found guides for the bottim by the carnk. I was thinking it has the rails only in cylinder heads but it turned out I was wrong. When I researched on this forum, everyone talks about changing the top rails but nothing about the bottom ones. Any advice or part numbers for the rails would really be appreciated. Thanks.

rowdie 12-11-2009 01:37 PM

Most do not change the lower rails for two reasons. They do not wear or tend to break like the upper ones. Second is it requires the timing cover be removed and to do this properly the engine has to be pulled and the heads and oil pan removed.

Don't read the Haynes Manual on this procedure. IT IS WRONG!

450slcguy 12-11-2009 03:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rowdie (Post 2358479)
Most do not change the lower rails for two reasons. They do not wear or tend to break like the upper ones. Second is it requires the timing cover be removed and to do this properly the engine has to be pulled and the heads and oil pan removed.

Don't read the Haynes Manual on this procedure. IT IS WRONG!


The factory CD isn't that great either. It leaves out the part about removing the camshaft sprockets. I really can't see how it can be done without that vital step.

khaledfarid 12-11-2009 04:06 PM

I never even look at Hynes or Chilton, I tried to get the CD from Mercedes Classic but for some reason it's not available anymore, any idea where I can get one?.

meltedpanda 12-12-2009 10:12 AM

my first suggestion is to change all the fluids and start driving the ol gal. sitting is the worst thing for it, it needs exercise. Before getting her out make sure all the rubber lines and vacuum lines have not dry rotted . Running rich can be due to a lot of things, but if you are only starting it and running it 15 minutes at a time, true diagnosis is tough. At 44K on the clock, doubt the chain rails need redone, unless it has been abused .
Love to see some pictures!

abiby 12-12-2009 02:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by khaledfarid (Post 2358610)
I never even look at Hynes or Chilton, I tried to get the CD from Mercedes Classic but for some reason it's not available anymore, any idea where I can get one?.


There are usually a few on eBay.

khaledfarid 12-12-2009 04:14 PM

Well, I took the valve covers off and the timing marks on both cams when set to 0, the timing mark on the crank is dead on o. The chain don't have any slack, the reason I took the valve covers off is to check the guide rails, the rails are intact and not broke at all but they are discolored. I ordered the rails, plastic oil tube clips, 2 valve cover gaskets and the copper washers for the valve cover hold down bolts. I ran it today for about 15 minutes and went into a little ride for about 36 miles and when I got back, I left it running and the rich smell almost gone, I guess it's the old fuel, I put a fuel cleaner that I got from the dealer and I will try to use most of the old gas with the cleaner and then refuel it and hopefully that will help. I'll take some pictures and post it soon.

RadioTek 12-12-2009 05:34 PM

You may have some of the moving parts in the fuel regulation system varnished up a bit. Fuel system cleaner such as Seafoam or others would probably be helpful. Running the old fuel out and putting in new (with stabilizer, of course) seems to be in order if you want to keep up your previous practice. I would strongly suggest some attention to the vehicle, in the line of some protracted driving, with recommended maintenance, of course.

So change the oil, top off the tranny, fresh fuel, and drive it!!! It's a car, not a decoration. Treat is as such.

And have some fun, that's what these things are for.

khaledfarid 12-18-2009 11:06 PM

Well, I got a reply to my e-mail to Mercedes Classic and they sent me all the production information to my SL and they even have records for the recalls that has been performed while the previouse owner had it including the sub-frame. Something was very important to me was the production codes for colors of the interior and especially the exterior as I have not seen another SL yet with that color combination. The exterior is code 172 anthracite grey body & hardtop and the interior is 207 red leather. They even verified the work performed on the Sub-frame recall and they said that the whole Sub-frame was changed on MB expense ( No welding done, just complete change ).


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