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#1
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Can't get the Hardtop on Tight!
I have pretty much tried everything and searched the archives and read the manuals.
I get a rattle in the back of the hardtop and I have done the following: 1) Installed and Re-Installed the Roof three times! 2) I can't feel confident that the hook latch on the rear of the car is grabbing the roof down snug 3) The Driver side Lock Down will not turn a full quarter turn as the passenger side. 4) This is driving me nuts! The car seldom was without the hardtop until I bought it this past year and I am sure it didn't rattle when I drove it home in August 2001 Any ideas! Goin Looney with a rattle!
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1988 560SL Black Pearl/Palamino |
#2
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It may be your Back Window...
It may be your back window they become unglued over time. To see if the window is unglued open the door and shut it with the windows up, look to see if the back window moves when you shut the door. If it does you can stick some vacuum hose between the window and the chrome, that's what I did and it worked very well, or you could have the window glued back in.
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Eric, 1983 500 SL |
#3
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Tom: This may or may not be your problem, but I offer this suggestion. The hardtop locking pins on the driver's and passenger's side are both adjustable. As I recall, the chrome cap that you insert the handle into pops off and you can then screw the pin (which is really a bolt) in or out. The pin has a couple of "tits" on the end of it that grap the locking bracket on the body. If your locking handle doesn't turn far enough, it's because the pin is not projecting deep enough into the locking bracket and thus cannot be turned very far. If the handle turns too easily, the pin may be adjusted too long, thus the tits go too far into the locking bracket and when the handle is turned, it simply does not pull the top down tightly.
I have 2 of these cars, and on one of them, the upper right portion of driver's window was tearing up the rubber door seal on the hardtop every time the door was opened and closed. I found after much frustration that the problem was the adjustment of the hardtop locking pins. One was so tight that it pulled the hardtop down too far and caused the window to rub the seal. I adjusted both pins, and now the window does not rub. The point here is that the top can be adjusted for fit. Good luck. John Downey |
#4
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Top Problem
John!
Many thanks for a comprehensive reply! I'll take it off today and check the Pins on the driver and passenger side! Will report back!
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1988 560SL Black Pearl/Palamino |
#5
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John,
I am having the same problem on my 560SL after I installed the hard top. Now, when I close the door (driver side) with the window completely up the window sometimes sit OUTSIDE the seal. When this happened, as I have the window down I heard a 'POP" sound. I guess it because the window was rubbing the seal because it was sitting outside the seal. I also life that side up and try to play with the driver side locking pin and to no avail. Basically, how do you adust the lenght? I saw to bolts bolted on the pin with a black tube of some kind... Also, I as not sure if the legnth is the right lenght either. This side does not seem to lock like the other side. When I turn the locking handle, it is kinnda loose. Also, I got lots of wind noise. Perhaps when the window is outside the seal. A problem could be that the door does not seem to fit snutly like the door on the passenger side. I don't know what to do with this. Perhaps adjusting the door lock or something. Is is ok that the top is about 1/4 " above the body? PLEASE HELP. |
#6
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Hi Tom,
I have a 1986 300sl (euro) and I cam across the same problem about two weeks ago. My father and I removed the hard top for a week and put it back on. While driving it, especially on bumpy roads, the top would rattle. We reinstalled in many time, but to no avail. The rattle was still there. It turned out that when we pulled out the hard top, we somehow also removed the old, broken rubber grommet (sp?). This little rubber washer/grommet separates the metal pin from the hard top, and the metal body of the car. It solved the problem; $0.85 from the local MBZ dealer. This may not be your problem, but it's a small little thing to check-just in case. Good luck. -tony |
#7
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tony,
Thanks for the info... When I installed the top. I am sure about this rubber washer was in place... now I know what it is for. I think I have two problems... could be the cause of it. 1.. either I need to adjust the pin lenght so it will bit nutly. 2. The door could be the problem since it does not fit neatly with the body. I can see it from looking close ... body and door matching. I think I need to adjust the door lock or something so that it will fit neatly... this could be the cause why when I close the door, sometimes the window seat outside the seal and sometimes seat inside... and this create the 'POP' sound when I push the window down. My question is that how do you adjust so that the door will fit neatly with the body? Thanks Michael |
#8
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I have a similar problem with my 88 560SL. The passenger window sometimes gets stuck on the outside of the weather strip and I have to lower the window and re-raise it to get it to seat correctly. I have adjusted the window frame and it has helped some but there is still a lot of wind noise coming from the back. The problem with my top is that it sits about 1/4" to 1/2" higher where the rear center locking pin latches than the two side locking pins. In other words if you look at the crome molding on the bottom of the hardtop it is at a slight angle from front to back. Is there any way to adjust the rear locking pin?
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Hud 88 560SL 97 E320 |
#9
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Jerry,
Is there any way to adjust the rear locking pin? Yes you can adjust the rear locking pin, to do so you would adjust the locking housing on the body of the car you can move it down for lower locking.
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Eric, 1983 500 SL |
#10
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TNguyen: Haven't logged in for a while, so sorry I didn't see your comment/question sooner. I had the same basic problem. i.e., the window would stay outside the lip of the rubber seal and caused considerable wind noise. I put some silicone grease on the rubber seal, and it helped only occassionally--you would hear a "pop" and the window would slip under the rubber seal. But I knew this wasn't right. In my case, the problem turned out to be the hardtop adjustment--the door lock and window frame adjustment were not the problem.
It's been a while, but as I remember, I adjusted the top as follows. I have a ceiling hoist that allows me to lift the hardtop up a couple of inches--if you don't have a hoist, I believe you can just lift the top up on both sides and slip a book under it to take the weight off the pins on each side. Next, pull the chrome cap off the adjustment pin--this is the cap where you put the handle to loosen the top. You will see a square headed bolt--I believe it's about a 8 mm head. Get a wrench and turn it 2 complete revolutions to start with (remember how many turns you did, so you can put it back exactly where it was if the adjustment proves to not fix your problem). There is a locknut on the bottom of the pin, but I think the pin turned OK without loosing the locknut. I believe you need to turn the pin clockwise--since you want the pin to be longer, thus pushing the top UP in relation to the window edge, when the pin hits the locking plate. Lower the top, put the chrome cap back on, lock it down and look at the window to see if now fits under the sealing rubber. If it's improved, but not enough, turn the pin a couple of more revolutions and recheck. This worked great for me--wind noise gone, window fits fine. When you think about it, the door lock and window frame adjustment should seldom if ever need adjustment. The hardtop can be easily mistreated whenever it's taken off. I think you should play with the adjustment of the top before trying anything radical. Good luck...jcd |
#11
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Hi Downeyjc,
Thanks so much for the info. I did try to play with the top but was hesitate the turn the pin like you have mentioned. Let me try this method and I will let you know. Also, I am thinking about replacing the rubber seal as well since it is a little old. again, thanks so much. Long live 560sl. Michael |
#12
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Hi,
Does anybody know the ideal height for the hardtop in reference to the body. I am referring to the back locking pin. Mine is about 1/4 - 1/2" above the body... looking at the back. I understand that if it is too close then it will rub off the body of the car and cause paint damage. Also,I want to reduce wind noise coming from the back of the car. Since I am going to adjust it... just want to know if anybody has done this. Thanks Michael |
#13
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IS the hardtop adjustment applicable for any 107 in particular my 450Sl ?
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Mark Herzig 1995 E300D 153K 1985 300D 142K (sold) 1979 450SL 122 miles (sold) 1992 500E 127K (sold) 1987 300SDL 132K (sold) 1986 300E 161K (sold) |
#14
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Yes. The method of attaching the hardtop was the same for all 107s.
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Malc UK 1988 300SL 1991 300SE |
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