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#1
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sub-frame,oil pan, oil pump, removal
I need to remove the oil pump to remove the timing chain cover. The sub-frame needs to be lowered to remove the oil pan to remove the oil pump. What is the best procedure to lower the sub-frame enough to remove the oil pan?
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#2
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Year, model? Why are you removing it?
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#3
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Removing Sub-frame '85 380SL
The car is a 1985 380SL wit 108K miles. It all started when the plastic timing chain rail broke which caused a no start condition. I found broken pieces of rail and 3 loose rocker arms on the right head. I removed the head and found 3 bent exhaust valves. I also removed the left head and the valves looked in good shape. I plan to replace all upper and lower rails, timing chain, tensioner, bent valves, and any other parts that need replacing while everything is open. Now I need help with the best procedure to remove the chain to the oil pump so I can remove the timing chain cover. I'm sure I'll have over 100 hours in labor and hope I'll never have to do this again. Now I know why my friend, a retired career mercedes mechanic, always takes his car to be fixed by others and won't even change his own oil. I'm 54 years old and my back is in severe pain when I put in a 10 hour day leaning over a mercedes.
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#4
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If you don't have a shop manual, you can access repair procedures, torque specs, tsbs, and diagrams with alldatadiy.com. The cost is under $27.00 for a year subscription with discounts for multiyear or multivehicle accounts.
http://www.alldatadiy.com/ I wouldn't attempt major repairs without all the technical information available on hand. It's too much time, effort, cost, etc... to make careless errors that require a redo and more money to fix. Good luck with your project. Regards Last edited by tgolden; 03-27-2011 at 11:01 PM. |
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#5
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The reason I take time to write in this forum is to get info from experienced Master mechanics to tell me the smartest and quickest way to do a job. This is something no book can do. If you tell people to go look in a book or ask another outfit why even have this forum? The book is only good for specs and vague one point of view instructions. If you don't have a answer just say so and please don't direct me to books, I know where the library is located, thank you.
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#6
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If you removed the heads the proper procedure is to use a guide plate to drill the block and helicoil the holes. Some of the head bolts are at an angle. The guide plates are not cheap and the drilling is difficult with the engine in the car.
What you want to do is best done by pulling the engine. Last edited by rowdie; 03-28-2011 at 09:25 PM. |
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#7
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To address your question, I welded up a support cradle for the engine out of 1" box tubing. Once in place, car on jackstands, IIRC, I removed the brake calipers, the engine mounts/shocks, torsion bar, etc., then the 4 bolts/rubber bushed sub-frame mounts.
Here's an old thread I posted with pictures FYI 560SL subframe removal questions . I still have that support, but way too awkward to ship. Others have documented using a portable 'cherry-picker' type engine hoist, ceiling mounted chainfalls, and even a fork lift or loader bucket to hold up the engine. For what you're doing though, IMO, you'd be almost there anyway to simply pull the engine/transmission, especially if you have something to raise it up as well as out. I have a homemade device to allow tilting the engine for this purpose as it's coming up.
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1986 560SL 2002 Toyota Camry 1993 Lexus |
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#8
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Quote:
Lots of helpful people here with experience in many things. You will get more help without the cranky attitude.
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http://www.benzypalooza.com/index.htm |
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#9
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Insults
I don't think this forum is used for personal insults. I'm asking for your removal. Have a beautiful and joyous day.
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#10
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FYI
They are giving excellent advice.
You need to study the service information before tackling this job. http://www.alldatadiy.com has the MB factory service data re-indexed for simple intuitive access. IMO: It is easier to pull the engine, and do the repair on an engine stand. .
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ASE Master Mechanic https://whunter.carrd.co/ Prototype R&D/testing: Thermal & Aerodynamic System Engineering (TASE) Senior vehicle instrumentation technician. Noise Vibration and Harshness (NVH). Dynamometer. Heat exchanger durability. HV-A/C Climate Control. Vehicle build. Fleet Durability Technical Quality Auditor. Automotive Technical Writer 1985 300SD 1983 300D 2003 Volvo V70 https://www.boldegoist.com/ |
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#11
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Your rudeness far out-weighs any perceived "insult" that may have occurred.
Don't fight the forum, embrace it. Will a happy face help?
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http://www.benzypalooza.com/index.htm |
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#12
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Wake up
I always check the mercedes manual before doing a job. When the instructions are not clear and vague I try to find a person who has the expert experience and knowledge that no book can explain. Every question asked on this forum can be answered with go look in the book. When I take the time to ask experienced experts how to do a job the last thing I want to here is go look in a book because their to lazy or ignorant to answer a question. I'm not here to win a personality contest, I just want some technical advice. I only want mature hard working people writing on my post. If you feel the urge for personal attacks please see a therapist and stay off my post, thank you.
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#13
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What does that have to do with anything?
Public forum, James. Deal with it. PS....your original question has been answered. Did you thank anyone yet?
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http://www.benzypalooza.com/index.htm |
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#14
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Quote:
Get rid of that chip on your shoulder. Settle down and show some respect. |
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#15
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Nobby
If you are a lady I'm sorry I hurt your feelings. If your a man you need to grow one. If you are a man DO NOT answer to any of my post otherwise I will take legal action for harassment, thank you.
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