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  #1  
Old 05-20-2011, 07:26 PM
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'89 560SL no spark

Got the call at work from a weepy wife stuck on the side of the road. Car died, won't start.
When I get there - I determine no spark @ coil but have no test equipment w/me.
I immediately think coil-to-computer, hoping it is the coil. Are there any tests I can run with a VOM as far as V drops, resistance etc. beyond the obvious that will confirm the diagnosis?
Proper specs would be greatly appreciated.

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1999 E320 (gave to daughter) 250K
1994 F150 (may be the end of its road) 240K
1989 560 SL (Reassembly after paint job) 160K
1986 560 SL (deceased., gave it's life protecting my wife)
1988 300 TE (departed)
1994 945T (still running strong with an upgraded cam) 349K
1986 242Ti (deceased)
1968 GT500KR (under restoration)
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  #2  
Old 05-21-2011, 03:16 PM
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Some Findings

OK, ran a few electrical tests on the coil & am not convinced it is the culprit.

Primary winding seems OK with continuity between posts & about .15 ohm of resistance. No continuity to ground. Is that too low?

Secondary winding measures about 9k continuity between the output & either Primary post. Again, no continuity to ground.

I am assuming the small diameter Primary post is NEG?

So it seems there are no shorts to ground & it shows continuity where it should, but is the resistance OK or do my readings indicate internal shorts in the coils?

11+ V is present at both primary posts with key on & it drops slightly (about 1V) when cranking.

Removed coil to clean it up & cleaned ground wires connections to mounting bolt. No joy.

Anyone have any thoughts?
__________________
1999 E320 (gave to daughter) 250K
1994 F150 (may be the end of its road) 240K
1989 560 SL (Reassembly after paint job) 160K
1986 560 SL (deceased., gave it's life protecting my wife)
1988 300 TE (departed)
1994 945T (still running strong with an upgraded cam) 349K
1986 242Ti (deceased)
1968 GT500KR (under restoration)
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  #3  
Old 05-21-2011, 03:18 PM
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Location: ontario canada
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Whether it is a bad coil or a bad computer (EZL) you are likely going to need a new coil. The outfit that sold me a rebuilt EZL would not warrant it unless I purchased and installed a new coil at the same time. Apparently a bad coil can blow the EZL.

The test specs for the coil are in the online manual in the EGv7 sticky above, but my attempts to test a coil showed a dud one as good.

A coil is only about $75 so why not change it out anyway?
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  #4  
Old 05-21-2011, 03:26 PM
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Sorry I am in the wrong forum, the sticky is on Benzworld.

See http://www.startekinfo.com/StarTek/outside/11883/?requestedDocId=11883 sec 15-540
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  #5  
Old 05-21-2011, 03:34 PM
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Oh, I was wondering why I couldn't find it! Thanks.

Depressing though, about the diagnostics.
__________________
1999 E320 (gave to daughter) 250K
1994 F150 (may be the end of its road) 240K
1989 560 SL (Reassembly after paint job) 160K
1986 560 SL (deceased., gave it's life protecting my wife)
1988 300 TE (departed)
1994 945T (still running strong with an upgraded cam) 349K
1986 242Ti (deceased)
1968 GT500KR (under restoration)
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  #6  
Old 05-21-2011, 06:22 PM
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OK, don't have all the test equipment (engine 'scope) but I do have a BK Precision 'scope I might be able to cobb into the system.

So far, all VOM checks are within spec.

(Ignore pre-edited post, I was measuring the wrong connections.)
__________________
1999 E320 (gave to daughter) 250K
1994 F150 (may be the end of its road) 240K
1989 560 SL (Reassembly after paint job) 160K
1986 560 SL (deceased., gave it's life protecting my wife)
1988 300 TE (departed)
1994 945T (still running strong with an upgraded cam) 349K
1986 242Ti (deceased)
1968 GT500KR (under restoration)

Last edited by rjk; 05-21-2011 at 06:47 PM. Reason: Incorrect diagnostic info
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  #7  
Old 05-21-2011, 09:42 PM
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battery , altenator?
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  #8  
Old 05-22-2011, 04:03 PM
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Success, sort of

So I went to the pull-a-part this morning & snagged a couple of Ign modules & a coil. Got them out of a 560SEL & a 420SEL, the only 2 on the lot. Numbers are not an exact match.

Swapped in the coil w/old module - no joy.

Swapped in a module & it starts right up. Joy.

Shut down right away & came in to post this.

How critical are module p/n's?

First, I do not know for sure but suspect the current module IS NOT original. P/N is BOSCH 0 227 400 695/MZB 0 410 545 67 32 (03), it has worked for years. I suspect it was a heat failure because the heat sink goo did not look to be making good contact; many ripples due, I think, to a missing hold-down bolt.

The unit I got out of the 560SEL is BOSCH 0 227 400 624/MZB 004 545 53 32.

The 420 SEL is a SIEMENS 5WK6 114/MZB 004 545 55 32.

So I figure the best match is the BOSCH unit from the 560SEL but am looking for trouble or just being overly cautious?

I see parts distributors list the BOSCH 0 227 400 695 (same # as the bad unit I just removed) as the replacement for all years/models of 560's & a BOSCH 0 227 400 693 as the replacement for a 420. So I surmise something is different (mappings maybe?) & I should avoid the module from the 420.

Would I be correct in assuming the different #'s (695 vs 624) from the 560SEL are just an older variant? Although I do not trust ebay, both are listed as 560SL replacements there.

Anyone want to chime in?

__________________
1999 E320 (gave to daughter) 250K
1994 F150 (may be the end of its road) 240K
1989 560 SL (Reassembly after paint job) 160K
1986 560 SL (deceased., gave it's life protecting my wife)
1988 300 TE (departed)
1994 945T (still running strong with an upgraded cam) 349K
1986 242Ti (deceased)
1968 GT500KR (under restoration)
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