The "Sucking" test
 

Everything points to the pressure regulator. I did a variation of the "Suck" test. I hooked up my ohm meter to pins 7 & 15, then to 8 & 10. The readings did not change when I applied vacuum on the pressure sensor's port.
In essence, instead of just checking to see if the diaghram is ruptured, by a sucking test, I would think that values would change as vacuum is applied.
I would think that it's a static type change. x vacuum = Y resistance change. But I don't know if that is the case.

not necessarily, sharing another one of my files :)

Using a hand vacuum pump with a gauge pull a vacuum of 20 in. Hg on the sensing port of the MPS. If a vacuum cannot be pulled or it leaks down (< 5 in. Hg in one minute), then the sensor is leaky and must be repaired. The usual causes of vacuum leaks are a cracked diaphragm, a leaky body flange seal (either an o-ring and/or a flange seal), or a leaky part-load stop seal (paper seal, unobtainable - gasket sealant may work). Some people have reported luck with repairing the diaphragm using solder or epoxy, or a sandwich of aluminum foil and RTV (!), but such a repair is not recommended. The diaphragm is fully flexed each time the engine is under full load (open throttle) and it is highly likely that any repair will only hold for a short while. The usual way of getting a repair is to do a rebuild exchange with either Performance/Automotion or Automobile Atlanta. The rebuilder is Bret Instruments of Santa Ana, CA - but they do not do any end-user repair, you must go through a supplier.
If the vacuum test is passed, check the coil resistances. The primary coil is measured between terminals 7 and 15 and should measure about 90 ohms. The secondary coil is measured between terminals 8 and 10 and should measure about 350 ohms. Also check the coil isolation - there should be no continuity between either of the coils and the case. If any faults are detected the MPS is defective and must be replaced.
If both tests above are passed, then the MPS should be in good condition. However, it is possible that one or both of the aneroid cells have failed and are no longer sealed. This failure causes a rich part-load and idle mixture. Testing for a failed aneroid cell requires measurement of the inductance vs. vacuum characteristic of the MPS. The recommended inductance meter for this test is the Wavetek LCR55 (~$175) . The slope of the part-load characteristic is compared to the calibration curves presented in this document. If the slope is significantly (~50%) less than the calibration curve, then it is likely that one of the cells has failed.

Well I'm getting frustrated now. I just typed quite a bit and went to spell check it, and had to run the add-on and lost all my typing,,, grrrr,,, anyway, pressure sensor holds a vacuum, resistance measured 89 on teh one coil and 356 (then the next day 325) on the second coil. No shorts between them and/or ground.

I also fiddled with the distributor, as not sure I put it back in the way it was supposed to go in, when I checked the trigger points. But it should be close enough to sputter along, not stall out.

I disconencted the power to the ECU, and cranked a few times, and it sputtered like before a few times then no sputtering at all, so I poured some gas down the throat (ECU still disconnected) and it sputtered like before a few times then the battery got weak. I'm trying to see if it runs longer with gas poured down the throat to rule out ignition problems.

Personally I think it's flooding the heck out of it.

which direction slows down idle on the know on the ECU?

Recent observation, the "kicking" when I turn the car off, is backfire. The fan comes to a complete stop, I turn ignition off, and the fan spins backward a little. Oh, and it doesn't do it after all the gas in the intake is consumed, and the ECU disconnected.

the car will not start with the ECU disconnected. It recieves input from many of the sensors in the Djet. Failure of one or more of the sensors causes an all rich situation. Its main function is start up and adjusting idle mixture.
IF you are certian the fuel pump is spinning up and working
there is power to the ecu
and good ground to terminal 11
and you have good spark

and still not starting the ECU could be the culprit

The car will start with the ECU disconencted, it will only run as long as the gas poured down the throat evaporates as roughly 14.5 parts of air to 1 part of gas vapor (I think that is the ratio) in other words, it'll start, run for a few seconds then stop.

This told me that the distributor was reinstalled correctly, and that I do indeed have a spark.

I had an uhh haa moment. I rechecked trigger points and realized I only checked half of them 12 -21 and 12- 22 So I checked 12-13 and 12-14.

Every one checked out except 12-14 which was infinite all the time. So I pulled the distributor again, and Lo and Behold, the distributor was in the exact same location as the first time I pulled it, because the mark I put on the points and the shaft lined up. This "sign" from the auto gods was a sure indication that I found my problem.

Look at the picture.

So I bent the metal reinstalled the trigger, but unfortunately I bent it to far and went from infiinite to "0" at all rotations,,, yank the distributor again, bend back the metal tab a little, and WHOLA - same as before, start, runs a few seconds and dies.

It was getting late and I didn't feel like ohming out the trigger points again, so I called it a night and now wher to start today.

I found schematics and a block diaghram that has been immensely helpful.

It is here -> The ECU

It's for a Porsche, so it only shows two trigger points, but most the rest is the same.

Another thing I might have discovered is that pin 17 TPS at idle is a closed switch to ground, but pin 17 on the harness was grounded.

It's gotta be something stuipid keeps this car from running.

I checked the condensor it is 200 nF

It seems like I'm getting a flooded condition, so I attempted to "Fool" the ECU, by shorting TS2 (which tells the ECU to lean out the mixture), grounded pin 17 (TPS idle - just in case) but that didn;t get anywhere,,,

it may start without the ecu but will not run...

your trigger points should stay open for about 100 -120 of distributor rotation , the others closed at that time
read this
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/sl-forum/297036-back-infamous-rich-djet-operation.html
and you will see what I mean , if your triggers are open to long you will push too much fuel
have you ensured your AAV is working properly?

You may want to pull the injectors out (try one side of 4 first), put each one in a small jar, and see whether one or more of the injectors is stuck in open position. Just because ECU sends signal does not mean that injector functions properly. Injectors are basically solenoids and may be stuck open if the car has been sitting for a while. I pulled some injectors from a scrap car the other day and have no doubt some of them are stuck.

If you think it is rich, how is the starting with full throttle open (lots of air)? You may have to disconnect the MAP to trick the ECU in thinking it is "just" at idle position.

The other option to try is to borrow a spare ECU and do a swap to see whether that makes a difference. I chased a fuel pump gremlin a while ago that in the end turned out to be ECU related so I feel your pain.

Good luck,

Bert

If injectors were stuck open, then fuel pressure would drop over time. I believe I waited 15-20 minutes and no drop in pressure when I tested.

I tested the trigger points (again) and 14 was open, so I pulled the distributor cap and rotor, and lo and behold for the 3rd time, my original mark lined up, this is getting spooky.

I adjusted the trigger point number 14, and I think I might have it, so I stopped to have a celebratory smoke before I try cranking her.

Ohh the anxiety of it,,,

I've come to the conclusion that there may be some instances where both 21 and 22 are open, as well as both 13 and 14, just depends on where the trigger cam stopped rotating.

And why doesn't the tach work?

She wouldn't start and run for more than 5 or 6 seconds.
Since I pulled the distributor so many times I changed the timing, both advance and retard, but it was worse both directions, I then put it back where it was originally, and it was worse there too, meaning I still think I'm getting a flooded condition and thats why it only ran decent for 5 or 6 seconds.

you are sure the distributor is back where it came from, one tooth off and your never gonna start .
bench test the triggers insitu ( in the distributor) for open and close time( degrees) and proper open close sequence . let us know

once again - AAV working
TPS - working?

Tach not working could be a number of reasons: loose connection behind cluster, sticky needle, or bad contact. I would clean off the contacts on the terminal block on the driver sides inner fender near the coil. It's the terminal block that gets the wires from the transistor unit (under driver side front fender? - not too familiar with SLs) and coil. I think the tach wire is green with yellow. Given your problems, make sure all these contacts are clean (including the ones on the resistorsand coil) so you have at least eliminated that potential problem area.

Master relay wire to battery also can be a source of funky electrical problems for 108/109/111 cars, but I am not sure whether 107 has the same relay setup. If so, make sure that connector is clean too at the battery (just in case).

Bert

Didn't have time to play around last night, daughter invited boyfriend over for dinner, so being the dad that I am, I left early.

Can the AAV cause a no start condition? Something stupid is seriously wrong with the car. But a least I've achieved repeatability in the cranking. First time I crank after the car sits for awhile, she starts right up, starts idling slower (bogging down) then stalls. If I attempt to start immediately (or within a few minutes) she doesn't want to start (flooded condition) This is repeatable.

I turned the distributor both directions and neither led to the car running any longer/better. SO I've currently come to the conclusion, that the distributor has been reinstalled in the correct location, but still don't know why she won't run.

I have another set of trigger points, I will install them today and see what happens. I don't want to just swap parts, I want to learn the D-jet system, so maybe I can add "D-Jet Expert" after my name.

It probably would be a good idea for me to set up a test area for D-jet troubleshooting and adjustment. I'll add it to my "todo list" after I finish fabricating my latest magnetic motor design.

I loosened each of those connectors, and noticed one had a ring terminal, but no wire attached, must be the tach wire going into the cabin.
The conenctions were remarkable clean, the odometer on this car shows 020596 and from the looks of the engine compartment and the cabin, this might actually be a 20K mile engine, even though the title says odometer discrepency, Ohio DMV freaks out whenever they see a 6 digit odometer reading from a 70's era car. They assume that the last digit is tenth's and the odometer has turned over.

an AVV stuck closed would be an issue. Closed would starve the engine of needed air at rich start up , open all the way would not let it run once up to temp