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  #1  
Old 03-12-2013, 10:18 AM
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Half Shafts

Has anyone replaced the CV Half Shafts on the 560SL? I have a banging noise upon accelleration ~30-35mph. Had this issue for a long time....
Everything else has been replaced except the half shafts.

How difficult?


Thanks
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  #2  
Old 03-13-2013, 04:39 PM
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Haven't changed axles on that car but, the procedure will be similar to any other car.

Unstake and remove the axle nut at the wheel.

If the inner CV bolts on, use a triple square / XZN bit to remove 6 bolts.

To get the inner part of the axle to clear, you may need to move parking cables / wires.

Tap on the outer axle bolt to disengage the splines from the wheel flange.

Don't move the car with the axle removed, the outer CV holds the bearing together.
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  #3  
Old 03-15-2013, 12:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Softball60 View Post
Has anyone replaced the CV Half Shafts on the 560SL? I have a banging noise upon accelleration ~30-35mph. Had this issue for a long time....
Everything else has been replaced except the half shafts.How difficult?
Hi Softball60,

If you suspect the axleshafts have some wear and you are contemplating replacing them, the procedure is not too complicated but before you decide to replace them bear in mind that the main wear occurs on the spider on the side of the direction of driving by the ball-bearing balls.

Once you remove them, test them for wear by pulling on the outer CV outwards and try to rotate them left and right on the main shaft. If there is some play on them when the CV joint is at its outward position it would suggest some wear on the spider. If this is your case then you can swap the axleshafts, the left side to the right side of the car and vice-versa, so that there will be not wear on the side of the spider in the direction of driving.

Your 560SL model would have annular axleshafts, as opposed to homokinetic. You will need an Allen bit/key to remove the Allen bolts on the inner CV holding the axleshaft to the differential. Loosen the top nuts on the shock absorbers to allow the control arm to further lower down to the stop bracket on the subframe, remove the centre 13mm bolt and washer in the hub holding the axleshaft and push it out of the hub. You will need to support the car with axlestands on the chassis to allow the control arms to lower down to its limit and remove the road wheels. If the wear is a suspected on the spiders, you will find that after swapping the clonking noise a low speed will disappear. It is worth a try.
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Old 03-15-2013, 02:05 PM
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Deltacom,

Are you saying that all I have to do is take the left side drive axle and move it to the right side and vice versa with the left side?

Also, Doesn't the differential back cover have to come off so that I can remove the Axle keeper?

Thanks

Paul
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  #5  
Old 03-15-2013, 02:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Softball60 View Post
Deltacom,

Code:
Are you saying that all I have to do is take the left side drive axle and move it to the right side and vice versa with the left side?
Hi Paul,

Yes, by swapping the shafts to opposite sides the wear in the spider are no longer in the driving direction.

Code:
Also, Doesn't the differential back cover have to come off so that I can remove the Axle keeper?
The 560SL has annular axleshafts and part of the inner CV joint remains on the differential when you remove the Allen bolts for the purpose of swapping sides. The axle keeper clip only pertains to homokinetic axleshafts where the differential back cover has to come off for the shafts to be removed. But not on your model if you are swapping sides only. The differential back cover will have to be removed if you are installing new ones. Post a pick of your differential with the shafts attached in case previous owner installed homokinetic axleshafts, but I doubt it. Please do comeback if you need further assistance.
Regards
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Last edited by Deltacom; 03-17-2013 at 01:28 AM.
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  #6  
Old 03-15-2013, 02:42 PM
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Paul,

Just for your information, note the differences between annular and homokinetic axles.
You will find your 560SL has the annular type.

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  #7  
Old 03-15-2013, 03:53 PM
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Deltacom,

Did you see my original post which mentions that the banging occurred during accelaration @ ~ 30-35mph. It has been doing this for some time but seems to be getting worse ergo the need to replace the half shafts. Everything else underneath has been changed from the transmission back.

Do you think I am on the right path?

Thanks

Paul
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  #8  
Old 03-16-2013, 08:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Softball60 View Post
Deltacom,

Code:
Did you see my original post which mentions that the banging occurred during 
accelaration @ ~ 30-35mph.  It has been doing this for some time but seems to
 be getting worse ergo the need to replace the half shafts.  Everything else underneath has been changed from the transmission back.
Do you think I am on the right path?
Hi Paul,

Yes Paul, I read your post in detail and the symptoms would appear to be a case of spider wear and the banging/clonking noise would manifest as well on deceleration, particularly when you come to a stop.

You also mention you have replaced most components on the transmission/suspension. Would that also include: subframe mounts, main bearing and bearing support on the driveshaft, flex disks and differential mount, and, control arm bushes?.

In any event, testing the axleshafts as suggested above, would determine whether they are worn and swapping them would make a difference. The process is less than 1 hour's work and will save you some money. If you decide to replace them with new ones, make sure they are OEM and not Chinese replicas that would not last a trip to your local hardware store!!

Regards
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  #9  
Old 03-16-2013, 10:01 AM
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A more common description of the differences would be:

Bolt on inner CV joint ( annular )

One piece inner CV joint ( homokinetic )
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