Steering Wheel noise
 

Never had to deal with steering wheel issues but here we go.

Recently when driving down the road when I hit a bump I get a metal banging sound coming up through the steering column. I have not touched the steering over the past 10 yrs but have gone through all of the suspension and it has been replaced.

Is this coming from inside the steering box and possibly gears or bearing or????

Please hit me with your comments.

Thanks

Most likely it's the steering coupler. The rubber eventually rots and you get metal to metal contact, especially over a bump as you describe. It's a bear to replace - really difficult to get a wrench in it, you need to take the steering column down and there is a good chance you'll strip the Allen bolts getting them loose.

They're possible to rebuild, but probably not recommended.

If you decided to try, here's a thread - http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/sl-forum/321475-replaced-steering-coupler-my-r107.html

Steering Wheel Noise
 

Mach 4

Thanks for the information. This is exactly the kind of information I was seeking from this great group. Not sure whether I will rebuild or replace. Will let you know.

Paul

What year and model? 107 or 129?

Steering Wheel Noise
 

Sorry I didn't make it clear.

89 560SL

Sorry

I hope this doesn't really make much of a difference except for maybe physical shape and difficulty.

Thanks

Paul

Other than removing the knee bolster and following air bag disabling procedures it should be the same. Consult the FSM.

do it now rather than later, I waited too long on mine and it was a mess. the repair made a world of difference in the steering. Don't rebuilt, buy a new one. Also make sure you mark your spline and make sure the coupler goes on all the way . Good luck
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/sl-forum/261207-here-my-issue-steering-box-adjustment-72-450-a.html
this was on my 72 , yours should be similar

While I recommend new ones, if you're a hard core DIYer and decide to rebuild let me know and I'll publish a better way to rebuild than the one in my previous link. I had someone send me a totally trashed coupler and I developed a way to re-pour the rubber inserts using urethane that has the original flexibility and doesn't require drilling and using bolts.

I actually thought I had published this method, but couldn't find it.

Just for the record, my original rebuilt coupler has lasted over 40k miles without any perceptible degradation.

Steering Wheel Noise
 

I have access to a lift. Does this change the procedure?

I have heard the better way to do it is from the bottom?

Comments Please!!

Paul

You will be in and under the car. So in that respect a lift is nice and if you have access use it. While up there check all the other stuff as well!

Steering Wheel Noise
 

Panda,

Sorry I didn't make it clear.

Do I still have to pull the steering shaft completely out or is the coupler easier to access thereby not necessary to pull shaft?

Thanks

Paul

On mine. And I think all models the shaft has to come out a bit in order to remove coupler.

You just need to be able to move the steering shaft aft about an inch or two...which is essentially everything you need to do to remove the steering shaft.

Some people have reported being able to loosen the Allen bolts from inside the car. I didn't see that as much help when I did mine.

Here's a good link - http://www.benzworld.org/forums/r-c107-sl-slc-class/1504056-steering-coupler-replacement-380sl-without-removing.html

Steering Wheel Noise
 

Thanks Panda & Mach4,

I guess this means I still have to tear the wheel, Instrument panel etc. off before I can move to the actual coupler.

I will repsond after I have completed the task...waiting for coupler

Paul

Steering wheel for sure. Some under panels. I don't recall removing dash pod. I do know to get the pod out you have to remove steering wheel