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  #1  
Old 03-11-2017, 09:46 PM
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Electric Fans

Hello Folks,
I have a 1973 450 SLC 84K original Miles. I live in the desert area of Southern California near Palm Springs. Cooling system tries hard to keep temps in WNL range during summer months, so I have considered removing the stock fan set up and going to an Electric Fan to assist. I am also having the exhaust Manifolds Ceramic Coated(Coating is being done as I write this)
I am looking at dual Electric fan set up, my question is, has anyone else gone to this set up with the 450 SLC and if so : Did it help? and finally
I plan on using the bolt holes on the radiator that the plastic shroud bolts on to. Has anyone purchased a dual Electric Fan kit that will bolt up to or is very close to the bolt pattern that already exists on the Radiator/oil cooler?
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  #2  
Old 03-12-2017, 12:34 PM
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A properly functioning mechanical clutched fan will move more air than an electric fan. You can get a spal pusher fan to help but I suspect that you'll need to upgrade the alternator.
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  #3  
Old 05-08-2017, 01:44 AM
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There are several things you can do. I live in Las Vegas, I will be trying many the same ideas on my 1977.

The aluminum 560SL radiator will bolt up and provide better cooling than the brass radiator. Or you can get much better radiator cores with more fins, thicker cores etc.

Clean the entire water system with a good cleaner to get rid of 40 years of scale. The citric type of cleaners are approved by MB. I just did mine with zero issues. Remember you can have the radiator boiled out, but if you replace the water system rubber hoses you will find scale on every surface, aluminum and steel.

Use "Water Wetter" or other type of water conditioners for better heat transfer.

There are many electric fans that will provide as much or more than the factory mechanical fan. Yes you will probably need to upgrade the alternator, easy!

There are several articles about using a Volvo electric fan. Also releases 5-6 HP the mechanical fan used.

Your exhaust manifolds can be wrapped with header - exhaust tapes, try Cool It Thermo Tec
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Old 05-13-2017, 02:50 PM
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Another thing is there is lots of room in the radiator area to re-core and add one or two extra rows of fins. It is usually not too expensive to have a radiator re-cored compared to a new one.

I have seen the 560 aluminum radiators new for less than $400. Ideally a new aluminum thicker core with aluminum top and bottom tanks (stock are plastic) would be both lighter and transfer heat much better than a brass one.

I too like ceramic coated exhaust manifolds, but try rapping them with muffler or header tape, keeps the heat in the exhausts and cuts engine bay heat a lot more than the coated manifolds.

I am taking the exhaust on my 1977 450 SLC with 33K miles to 2.25 inches with dual 2.25 inch catalytic converters and a Borla dual 2.25 in/2.25 inch outlet muffler. Much of the exhaust system will be wrapped with header tape. This cuts heat and noise to the engine compartment. My muffler now sticks down below the rear of the car, I hate it.

So cats and mufflers will be under middle of car and new dual 2.25 inch exhaust pipes will exit below the rear of the car. At least you don't have to worry about cat converters.
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Old 05-13-2017, 08:55 PM
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The OE 560SL radiators have plastic side tanks. Not so easy to adapt to earlier models as the hoses and trans connections are totally different.
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Old 05-13-2017, 10:16 PM
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Your right, the 560s have side tanks. I must have been looking at a 560 SEC which still have top and bottom tanks. One 86-89 Mercedes 560SL was only $126 with free shipping. Pretty sure using the same year radiator hoses and transmission tubing the 86 560 SL could fit in an early 450 SL.
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Old 05-14-2017, 08:40 AM
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The trans lines go to the bottom on the '85 and earlier models and are on the side of the 560SL. Longer and different lines.
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  #8  
Old 07-23-2017, 01:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Agent Mike View Post
Hello Folks,
I have a 1973 450 SLC 84K original Miles. I live in the desert area of Southern California near Palm Springs. Cooling system tries hard to keep temps in WNL range during summer months, so I have considered removing the stock fan set up and going to an Electric Fan to assist. I am also having the exhaust Manifolds Ceramic Coated(Coating is being done as I write this)
I am looking at dual Electric fan set up, my question is, has anyone else gone to this set up with the 450 SLC and if so : Did it help? and finally
I plan on using the bolt holes on the radiator that the plastic shroud bolts on to. Has anyone purchased a dual Electric Fan kit that will bolt up to or is very close to the bolt pattern that already exists on the Radiator/oil cooler?
Agent Mike, I'm also in the Palm Springs area and I have tried several different e-fan mods to combat our high summer heat. Unfortunately I have not found one that I like yet that does better than the stock set up. I even ran four 10-inch electric fans at one point. I have a 190E 2.6 and so my engine bay is really tight. Not sure about the R107 engine bay. But I am determined to put in an electric fan from a newer MBZ and fit it in my engine bay. Here is a short video of a Spal puller fan, which is pretty good, they also have a much stronger one, but they would not fit in my engine bay. This is a puller and because it wouldn't fit in my engine bay I tried to use it as a pusher by reversing polarity. The blades weren't really optimized for pushing so I sent it back.https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BzESTTCx-sQTOUtMaV9SanNfeHc/view?usp=sharing

Also, if you move to electric fan, you may want to upgrade your alternator and the postive wire for it to something a bit more beefier. I am running a 120 amp alternator on my 201 from a 95-96 S600. I see a lot of people going with the 140amp, but the 120amp is more than enough and definitely more than my stock 80 amp. I also invested in a Bosch AGM battery.

This is the fan that I am hoping to eventually fit to my 201. Its 600 watts and probably moves as much air as the stock clutch set up when its at speed.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BzESTTCx-sQTeERHTkt0clI4ak0/view?usp=sharing
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  #9  
Old 07-24-2017, 03:05 PM
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The stock system is more than adequate to handle the heat.

Agent Mike, I recommend you look into replacing your fan clutch if your car is running upwards of 100*. My car on hot days was easily topping upwards to the 100* mark before I replaced mine. Others told me this was normal, but it really isn't.

My fan clutch had long gone bad, replacing it is stupid easy and a new clutch can be had for under $40 on Ebay. The only caveat is, most of them aren't stored properly so it will run and sound weird for about a week until the clutch goo inside redistributes itself.

The temp should stay somewhere between 85-90* with short bursts up to 100 if you're pushing her hard.
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Going back to the original post: "Can you get the vac to blow instead?" No. Vacuums are low pressure so they by nature "suck" and nature abhors them.
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  #10  
Old 07-24-2017, 06:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lsmalley View Post
This is the fan that I am hoping to eventually fit to my 201. Its 600 watts and probably moves as much air as the stock clutch set up when its at speed.
That is 50 amps JUST FOR THE FAN! A bit over the top if you ask me! If your engine runs that hot, maybe fix the coolant circulation or mixture problem instead!
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