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  #1  
Old 01-15-2018, 02:42 PM
83_380SL
 
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 14
R107 Slide Rail Guide Pin

Changing the timing chain on my '83 380SL

Appears as though there are 6 pins that are identical but another is unique.

The Slide Rail Guide pin is located behind a "threaded cover cap + washer" but from the angle, I cannot see threads in the existing pin? In the attached diagram I've found, which is the closest representation of my engine, it's Part #50.

I've ordered a new pin...MB Part 1160522874 (it hasn't yet arrived) but I cannot find any technical notes online for the inside thread of the pin?

NOTE: The other 6 all accept an M6...but this is too small for the Slide Rail Pin...

Simply, I am trying to find info about how to remove the old one so I can install the new rail and pin?

Thank you (all) in advance.
Christopher
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R107 Slide Rail Guide Pin-screen-shot-2018-01-15-1.30.12-pm.png   R107 Slide Rail Guide Pin-img_0976.jpg   R107 Slide Rail Guide Pin-img_0975.jpg   R107 Slide Rail Guide Pin-img_0973.jpg  
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  #2  
Old 01-15-2018, 04:10 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Modesto CA
Posts: 2,748
c:

The pin that you inquire about is the pivot pin for the chain tensioning rail, rather than the fixed position guide rails.
It does not have internal threads; it can usually be withdrawn by inserting an M8 bolt, canted a bit so that the bolt threads catch in the bore of the pin.
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  #3  
Old 01-15-2018, 04:39 PM
83_380SL
 
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 14
Hello Frank...thank you for the prompt reply...I'm relatively new to this stuff and it's got me scratching my head why MB wouldn't make it easier to remove...why MB would make it difficult.

I did try inserting a M8 but the diameter was too small (thin) to catch anything whereas a M10 diameter was to big...wouldn't insert.

Thoughts?

Your assistance is very much appreciated,
Christopher
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  #4  
Old 01-15-2018, 05:26 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: los angeles
Posts: 590
just bend a coat hanger to 90 on the end make the end about 1/4 long at 90 degrees , insert it and hook the pin from inside edge, I use a combi puller hook tool, tool for removing instruments, or grind a bolt that's slightly smaller and catch then pull pin out, it helps to lift rail up as to take weight off pin
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  #5  
Old 01-16-2018, 10:27 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 1,779
Why are you removing that pin? If you're replacing the chain rail you can buy the just the slider material on the rail and only replace that. A bit of a trick to do it but not that hard either and far easier than replacing the whole assembly.
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  #6  
Old 01-19-2018, 12:38 PM
83_380SL
 
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 14
Thank you Nulu - I appreciate the additional guidance...will use your "coat hanger" trick if the "M8 canted bolt" trick doesn't work.
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  #7  
Old 01-19-2018, 12:39 PM
83_380SL
 
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 14
Thank you for the additional guidance Benz Dr.
Admittedly, I didn't think of just replacing "just the slider" and not the whole slide...I'll take a deeper look as this may just be the trick. Again, thank you for your attention and support
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  #8  
Old 01-22-2018, 06:41 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 1,779
Oh yeah. That's a lot less work replacing just the slider. Push downward on the plastic slider and it should move lower and then unhook.

Been a long time since I did one so I would refer to the manual.
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