In the market for a late model SL500

I have driven BMWs for years and currently in the market for SL500. I could use feedback and words of wisdom on:

* most desirable / reliable years (1997 - 2000)
* where is the "sweet spot"...the year when depreciation drops then flattens out (3 yr. mark?)
* trouble areas (electronics, etc.)
* what to look for / inspecting potential cars
* major service intervals (every 30K miles) and cost
* insurance cost?
* where to have pre-buy inspections and service performed
* where is the best/worst place to shop
* Starmark or extended warranty (cost of repair)

Thanks in advance for any advice!

[jjrodger]

I have just bought a late model 1999 SL500; you may have seen my post. You're asking all the right questions. My experience is based on the UK market, but I don't suppose it is much different in Texas.

The R129 was facelifted in 1995 and 1998. The easiest way to spot a post-1998 car is by reference to the door mirrors: the square "ears" or "wings" of the earlier cars were replaced with SLK-style ovoid mirrors. Also in 1998 the SL500 was fitted with the new 3-valve V-8 that is still in use. This is supposedly more fuel efficient (I get 22mpg, I don't know what the older cars did), but more importantly it is much lighter (by about 50kg) and torquier (although it is down on power). Post-1998 cars were also absolutely fully loaded, the only real options being ADS (adaptive damper system) and the panoramic glass hard top. My view is that these post-1998 cars are the most desireable.

The depreciation sweet-spot in the UK market is early 2000. Younger cars still fetch quite high prices. My May 1999 SL500 was less than two-thirds of its new price.

I am not aware of any mechanical or electrical trouble areas.

When inspecting the car, look for a full MB service history, and immaculate condition. Look for accident damage or paint. Run your fingers along the join where the lower body cladding meets the upper body panels to identify a cheap re-paint (you'll feel a ridge where it has been masked). Look under the bonnet for repairs to the chassis rails. In the boot, open the rear light clusters and check the date stamp circle on the lamp holder corresponds with or is earlier than the date of manufacture (a later date suggests a smashed part has been replaced). Also in the boot, check the panel join between the rear wing and the boot ledge is neat (it should not be too sharp). Look in the spare wheel well for signs of a rear ender (I think the rear lamp date check is the best here).

Condition should be perfect with these cars.

These cars are bound to be expensive to service or repair, but mine seems to have made 12k intervals; the service manual does not suggest any unusually horrendous service occasions, although after 4 years elatively extensive work is required.

I bought at a known dealer for peace of mind and a full warranty.

My insurance is not too bad given I am a 26 year old single man with one motoring conviction (speeding) and only 2 years' no claims bonus.

Finally: spend some time looking (I took 12 weeks and looked all over the UK) and get the right car. You will not regret it. Mine is great.