I owned a 560SEC that had a severe hesitation on pulling away. It would otherwise run fine at idle and at going down the road. It turned out to be the fuel distributor. I replaced it with a cash for clunkers FD from the junk yard and it ran like a train.

Thanks. Could be, though previous owner had replaced it.

Someone on e bay is / was selling a diaphragm kit, not hard to install but tedious and working clean is a must.

Have link?

Nothing handy it didn't make it's way to new computer, do a search for CIS rebuild kit or similar and it should pop up.

Got the car today. It runs better once warmed up (of course) and if it's cooler outside (70 or below). My 97 E320 is not as sensitive to outside temps but completely different engine and fuel management. (last year of straight six M104 3.2).

I did swap the 18" offset rims from the SL (8.5 ET25 with 245/40 & 9.5 ET25 275/35) with the 17s from the E320 (8 ET32 235/45 all around) and it drives much better. Funny how the E320 seems to drive better also with the SL rims now. lol


https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/6-...Q=w939-h626-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/RC...E=w835-h626-no
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/Lc...0=w835-h626-no

soft top
 

I am surprised no one has mentioned problems with the operation of the convertible top itself. On my SL 500 it will lock and unlock but the top will only move so far and stop. I have to do manual operation the rest of the way and then go back to the switch on the console to lock it in place. Some switch on one of the actuators is probably not making contact.
Another big problem on the SL500,M119 eng is the secondary air injection code Po410. which requires removal of the heads to clean the air injection ports under the exaust valves.
All in ALL not bad for 260,000 miles great car.:D

Do you have a leak on one or more of the hydraulic cylinders? Though it does read like a micro switch problem.
Well at least yours work. I can lock/unlock the hard top but the soft top doesn't work. (though front (un)locks I have to do manually but lock under power).
I wouldn't mind doing the soft top the manual way if I had to. But the canvass has seen better days.

The previous owner beat the hell out of the front bumper valance on parking curbs. I had to patch up holes and cracks with some plastic JB Weld and paint.

260k miles sounds promising since mine has less than 100k.

The M104 continued on in the S320 until 99 or 2000

Think about the 97 E320 M104 / 722.6 power train in the SL body ( only 97 had this combo in a SL , 94- 96 was close as it had the M104 but still the hydraulic shift trans )

The E320 has rack and pinion steering where the SL has steering gear and linkage. Just a bit of slop and the SL will wander.

Fixed the lack of acceleration and stumbling problems at a stop.

Apparently the fuel distributor was replaced at some time by a previous owner
but I doubt the EHA was ever calibrated to the car

I removed the EHA from the fuel dizzy (mounted on driver side of dizzy two T-20 bolts)
On the back there is a small flat head screw to remove

under that is a 2mm allen that I adjusted 1/4 clockwise
and now I get power throughout the whole range of the throttle position to WOT, even great kickdowns at 70 mph

Before I would only get good throttle response around 1/2 throttle any other position it seemed like it was starving for fuel
after a fuel filter change, checked the fuel pumps, and ran a bottle of fuel injector treatment with fill ups a few times
I new it had to be something else other than injectors

I know this is an old quote but could you elaborate on what you talked about.
What is EHA? It the calibration like a needle valve?
A picture is worth a thousands words.
Thanks
Iggy in AZ

EHA

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/atta...ng-gas-eha.jpg

adjustment screw (the one still mounted)

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/atta...86438300-2.jpg

I pulled the image from an W124 M103 engine thread. But it's the same thing.
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w124-e-ce-d-td-class/1845442-what-do-i-do-when-my.html

Electro Hydraulic Actuator. Under that brass screw in the picture is the adjustment, it is a 2mm hex key. I did this adjustment on my w124 M103 eng the results were incredible starting and acceleration improved! The only drawback was fuel mileage went way down,but at least now the car is driveable.