new guy thinking 380SL

[odie]

New guy here. I just came across an 82 380SL that kinda caught my eye. I'm curious as to the general opinion of these cars. I've done a little research on the various forums...

The car looks pretty clean and probably well cared for, but who really knows.

It seems that many coinsider the 380SL the lower end of the SL line. Is it the poorman's SL?

Single timing chain is a concern. What is the cost to update it.

Any known problems areas of the early 80's SLs or the 380 in parrticular.

Rust? Are these cars potential rust bombs? The car is on the Gulf Coast. Don't know the past history. The body looks pretty clean but the rear trunk has 3 rust blisters under the paint.

Smokes a little on start up but goes away after a little while. 150K on the car. Seats are worn but not torn.

It's a 22 year old car so it will need up keep. But are there any typical items that always seem to be an issue with these cars?

Any known weak points?

Parts availability at Autozone?

I've heard about crossmembers or body mounts collapsing?

kbb.com shows wholesale at $3300 for an 84 model. Asking price is about double that.

I had thought about a late 80's to early 90's 190 a couple of times but that's the closest I've ever been to buying a MB. I had a used 85 Volvo and 944. But that's as close to a "premium" european car as I've ever owned.

Just like to get an idea of what I'd be getting myself into. Not looking for a daily driver but do want a reliable weekend car that still has years of service left with few repairs. Regular maintenance is expected as with any used car.

I'm ready the 30+ page "lynn" posting but tend to think that is not the norm.

Long first post, sorry about that,

Thanks,
Tom

[Pili380SL]

My wife drives our '83 380SL daily and loves it. I mistakenly put platinum plugs in it when we bought it (a no-no) and other than that we haven't had any problems. Ours has no rust and is in especially good condition; 150K miles we paid 9K. It's very fun to drive, not especially fast like the 560's but it's no dog either. Poor man's SL? I guess I'm a happy poor man .

[Robert Mowbray]

Buy Lynn Tassin's. Read Consider This before Buying an SL" a few posts down on this forum. 107s are GREAT cars, despite his problems.

[DavidSoine]

At a minimum for any MB you are looking at, have the brakes, driveline and chassis (incl steering) checked out THOROUGHLY. If you're like me, you won't feel good about driving a car or having a loved one drive a car that you feel may be unsafe - and with the age of these vehicles I guarantee you will notice some things that will make you wonder.

With a real thorough inspection at least you will know the costs necessary to ensure that the car is really driveable. Price a front brake caliper and a steering box if you are wondering about the magnitude of the costs involved...not insignificant for some people...

best,

Dave
87 560sl

[cbdo]

The 380 has a rep as a smooth, pleasant tourer with performance that's just fine unless you're a drag racer; these cars are really about fast, comfortable transit from point A to point B, and the 380 does that as well as any.
The timing chain hopefully has been converted to dual-row, as it was single in '82.
Get an expert evaluation, and plan on finding stuff even if the mechanic doesn't.
I actually spent about $5K bringing my 560 up to snuff, and I read very few posts from guys who didn't need at least $2-3K to do stuff that hasn't been done and is needed, unless you're talking DIY. Whether it's a steering box, ball joints, steering shock absorbers, shocks themselves, suspension bushings, valve guides, timing chain/guides/tensioner, radiator, AC, cruise control, brake pads/rotors/lines, rust repair, fixing a rusted-out parking brake linkage--there WILL be stuff that needs doing, and you'll go through some bucks to do it. The consolation is that most of these things last 100K miles and more and won't need redoing until your heirs restore the car.
For cost-effective transportation, there are better choices. For a hobby car that's among the most usable hobby cars out there, a 107 is very hard to beat. Look at it as a hobby, and ask what other hobby would be as much fun for the bucks.
Every time I get into mine, I find myself thinking "I love this car!" On a bright, sunny, warm day with the top down, it's a machine to challenge all the gods and poets....

[odie]

Is the '82 a 3 or 4 spd auto? I guessing 3psd since I looked at an '83 and the shifter gate was different.

Is the 4spd an overdrive or just have an extra lower gear? What would be the difference in top gear between the two transmissions? Are they both 1.00? Is the rear axle ratio the same for all years? 3.27?

Also noticed the 82s all seem to have the 80mph speedo but the 83 and newer have 140 or 160mph speedometer.

The trunk is stuck. Any trick to getting the trunk opened? The battery was dead when I tried the trunk. Is power required?

[odie]

Timing chain? no records. Is it difficult for the DIYer? engine removal required? Anyway to tell before tearing it apart? Tell-tale signs on the cahin covers? Life expectancy of the single chain?

[kip Foss]

OD,

Contact Vera at Ed Hicks, tel 854-1955 or John at German Motors at 854-0901. Vera works on the side and only charges $33 an hour. He has done a lot of work on my '77 slc. Don't use that foreign car place on SPID between Carol and Kostores. For wheel alighment go to Rene's on Ayres near Del Mar. I found many parts for my 450 at the local auto parts shops.

The best news I have gotten lately is that you can bargan with Ed Hicks Mercedes. The trick is to get a list of prices for what you need from people like Preformance Products or Adsitco. Ask for Fedencio at the parts counter and show him your list. Ask him if he can match or beat the prices. I just did this with parts for my 1975 300D. He saved me a few bucks on a $500. Best of all you can get most of the parts that day.

If you need any more info call me at 361-776-2091

[odie]

what are some of the common repair items on the early 80's SLs? I curious about things that seem to go bad on a high percentage of the cars. The know trouble areas? Items that seem to go bad no matter how well the car was treated.

[jim16671836]

I think in 1980 they went to a 4 speed. All automatics of the 70's and 80's I think have a 1.0 ratio in drive and the transmission will normally take off in second and if you go to the floor on take off the kick down will shift to first...the chain can last up to 150K and even longer if it has been using synthetic oil. It is a nice car and cruises very nicely...check the cruise control and airconditioning and heater and alternator...don't believe----see for yourself...if the battery is down I think it is in the trunk...but I have a SLC and it could be different if you have a SL...Also their was some issues with the sub frame..they broke or cracked...check your VIN at the dealers..it is I think almost a free fix and it is good time to have your front suspension gone over. Maybe it has already been repaired....If your battery is in the trunk you can jump your car with a battery hooked to the wires on the passenger front fender well under the hood. The trunk, if you have vacumm (engine running), can be unlocked by locking the front door and then unlocking the front door with key and this should unlock all the doors and the trunk and maybe your gas tank door if your car has that option. If that doesn't work I also have a another trick...contact me by email...goodluck...Jim Harris

[RickM]

Odie,

While I enjoy my 380 immensly I'm thinking this car may not be an attractive candidate as described. All the advice above is excellent.

To convert the single row timing chain your looking at $2-3K depending on who does it. It's a relatively involved job for a DIYer. Are you mechanically inclined? If not, best off leaving to a proffesional.

Rust: Bubbles are the proverbial "Tip of the Iceberg". Multiply what you see times 3.

You need to have a pro do a PPI on both mechanics and body for this car. It's not a Toyota corolla, where you hop in and drive, maitenance free, for the next five years.

Here's a couple of links to check out...

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=144191&highlight=380

380sl Project "refresh" continues....

[KirkVining]

In my experince the parts that are guaranteed to go out pretty much on schedule on well cared for cars Mercedes made in the late '70s to mid 80s,:

Vacuum driven power options, around 110,00

Front end parts like tie rods, etc seem to wear out on all models at about 140,000 mi.

Water pumps seem to go around 160. Radiator should be replaced with the pump, as it seems to go soon after, but that may be due to Houston water.

Major component failures, trans, engine, around 250,000 on gas models, 300,000 on diesels although everyone has a story about a legendary car. I've come to believe that is a good estimate based upon my habit of checking the odometer on the cars I come across in the junkyards as I scour he earth for Mercedes gold. Transmission failure at arround 180k on cars that have not had fluid and filter changes is not uncommon. However, it is also true that Mercedes driven by those fanatically obsessed with them seem to go about 450k.

My opinion on the 380, they are, like all SLs truly great cars, but they use a lot of gas and don't have a lot of power compared to the other SL's of that vintage, along with the dreaded timing chain problem. I also have a personal belief not shared by all, that the 280 and 500 Euro models of that vintage are a better long term investment because they are just plain better loking and performing cars, so if I was a first time buyer I would be looking for one of them.

Kirk Vining
83 280 SL
77 280E

[ctaylor738]

They are fun cars - not really a sports car, though. More like a small Mercedes sedan.

You definitely want one with a dual chain and the newer style climate control (horizontal buttons). The later the better as there were a lot of incremental improvements between 1981 and 1985.

Rust is very bad because of the construction - they tend to rust from the inside out and it is very hard to fix serious rust.

Make sure the soft top works well - the pieces are astoundingly expensive. Ditto sunvisors, seats, and interior pieces.

Don't buy a fixer unless you know what you're doing - not a good car to learn on. Get a PPI. Buy the best one you can afford and try to take advantage of others' work and expense.

[RickM]

BTW, most parts are not Autozone parts.

I also disagree with putting a mileage on when parts go bad. IMO, they go bad regardless. Age is mostly what affects these parts.

[KirkVining]

Rickm, was checking out your pics. What did you use for wheels to replace those bunts? Did you go from a 14" to a 15" rim and if so what did you use for tires?

Kirk Vining
83 280 SL
84 Porsche 944
78 Surburban 454