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  #1  
Old 11-01-2005, 12:39 AM
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Wanted: 1980 300sd W116 driver side bumper shock

Have a front shock (driver side) that has compressed. This is the shock that is typically rigid that is the main mount mechanism from bumpter to frame (not bumper shock on front that sticks out).

any guidance on where I can get one of these used preferred.. new if I have to.

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Old 11-02-2005, 06:11 PM
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help! .. no responses yet.. any assistance appreciated.

Thanks!
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  #3  
Old 11-02-2005, 06:43 PM
diametricalbenz's Avatar
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I have a whole bumper I need to sell sitting on my balcony, where are you located?
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Old 11-02-2005, 07:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mlordge
Have a front shock (driver side) that has compressed. This is the shock that is typically rigid that is the main mount mechanism from bumpter to frame (not bumper shock on front that sticks out).

any guidance on where I can get one of these used preferred.. new if I have to.
where you at and what are you offereing? I can do just the shock...

PM me or Email me if interested.
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Old 11-02-2005, 10:31 PM
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thanks.. in rocklin

I am in Rocklin, CA ... just shock would be fine unless entire bumper includes fog-lights .. (i know.. wishful thinking)..
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  #6  
Old 11-03-2005, 02:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mlordge
I am in Rocklin, CA ... just shock would be fine unless entire bumper includes fog-lights .. (i know.. wishful thinking)..
Hmm, I won't be anywhere close to you until Thanksgiving and I will be in the Bay Area then. I really just want to move the bumper to someone who can use it.
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  #7  
Old 11-03-2005, 02:49 PM
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(My apologies to anyone who might have one to sell) If the shock is still on the car, and you're not fussy about having it in 'working' order, to protect against 5mph bumps, eg., you can do what I did for the 11 years I owned my 1976 450SE: Get/borrow/rent a port-a-power and duckbill spreader, and using wood blocks, pump it out again. It will stay out from friction inside the tube assembly. If you want, drill a small hole and pop-rivet the tubes together. Next bump will shear the rivet and absorb some of the impact.
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Old 11-03-2005, 04:03 PM
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now that's creative!

Thanks for the tip.. seem sounds to me.
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  #9  
Old 12-07-2005, 01:08 AM
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and Wala! .. it worked perfect.. got the shock out, used my drill press to pilot a couple of holes into opposing sides of the shock and put in 2 reasonably sized metal screws. Slid the ruber boot back over the screws and you can't even tell it is 'doctored'. Thanks for the tip.. I'm sure it will be good as new for along time to come.
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  #10  
Old 12-07-2005, 07:45 AM
MB, love..hate..love..
 
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And thanks so much for the return post. You made my day! Those 'shocks' were originally designed, I think, to withstand a 5mph collision, something to do with safety regulations way back when.
I have an '88 Mazda 929 that I smacked into the corner post at the shopping mall cart corral (senior moment). It tore the rubber bumper corner like a knife. But what blew me away was the material exposed inside that the shop manual refers to as 'energy absorbing foam'. I had thought this was some kind of space-age stuff that would be difficult to repair/replace. It turns out to be styrofoam!
So I wouldn't worry about the 'sheer strength' of your screws as a compromise on 5mph impact safety, in case you get criticized for sabotaging Mercedes engineering. Have a great day!

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