WTB: complete set of linkages for w123 300d non-turbo
 

I don't just need the set of linkages and the associated brackets and hardware... I need you to have them on a car right now (as opposed to sitting in a bucket LOL) so you can take photos of them before you pull them for me....

I have a 1980 car with the weird, vacuum-only tranny setup, and I am changing in a 'regular' transmission instead. So I don't have an existing model to go by.

Thanks

I think you move too soon grasshopper - we can get the old one running!

LOL well I'm glad you can still muster some optimism....

Frankly I p*ssed away so much time this summer fiddling with the lovely bits on my new garage-queen-300d that the poor wagon just got put aside. Sending it up to the local euro boneyard (which has a guy in a bay who does re & re on engines and trannies all day long) starts to look like the path of least resistance....

It could be the way but I think there are a few things worth trying out first.

But saying that don't let me put anyone off for offering you the linkages - who says men can't multi-task eh?

1. Replace diaphragm.
2. Replace white valve (on VC).
3. Enlarge orfice at T-fitting.

:furious3:

4. Buy used Civic

Step 3 sounds a bit dodgy - from that long thread (the link I posted on the other thread) that doesn't sound like a good idea.

Have you done any vacuum measurements?

Orfice: That step is listed in the threads describing troubleshooting for this particular transmission. Yes it's a tricky deal, but it falls under the broad category of things that sometimes need doing just because the system may work one way on a brand new car, but over the years things no longer work exactly as the gods of Mercedes intended....;)

Vacuum reading: There is almost no vacuum right now. The needle is twitching between 2 and maybe 8 mmHg (or whatever the measure is).

However there is no oily evidence of a broken diaphragm in the vent line to the air cleaner box.

And measured at the pump?

I've noticed (during bleeding brakes actually) that if you pump the brakes you can often hear air leaks coming out of the vacuum pump - quick test?

Measured at the brake booster....

I can try the brakes.....

We're clutching at straws aren't we...

Have you done the pressure drop tests in the FSM chapters 43-023 and 43-660?

Basically it shouldn't leak more than 0.2 bar in 30 seconds

A leak free system has to be a good thing to achieve if you're not already there.

Disappointing weekend
 

Changed the pump diaphragm, turned out the old one was probably fine but was installed wrong side in and the cover was barely locked in place.

Road test, no difference.

Then installed a new vacuum splitter valve (the white valve on the VC).

Road test, no difference.

At this point the predicted fine day turned into a nasty afternoon of thundersorms so that was it for the weekend.

The buddy who was helping me (he having small hands, me not) wants to try switching over the modulator valve from my parts tranny, next weekend. I figure at this point it's a waste of effort.

By the way, I probably not been describing the symptoms as well as I might. It isn't stuck in first... rather when it tries to go into second it loses drive. If you let it scrub off some speed it picks up first again, albeit in a slippy way unless you stop and start off again.

I am thinking of writing up a new thread on this, just in case someone hasn't picked up on my previous ones.

Thoughts? :hanged2:

WTF!


WTF!


WTF!

Zacharias we could have saved some time if I now understand you correctly.

I've nearly finished my 722.118 rebuild write up so I've been busy with information like this.

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...1&d=1313998650

If you are saying that second is slipping but first isn't then I say you need to look at the B1 brake band / B1 brake band actuating piston