I frequent a lot of auto body and auto paint forums. They probably would not use a rattle can period. But they have nice compressors and paint guns. For us, people who don't have all that fancy equipment, rattle cans are a necessary evil, but we might as well get the best ones we can.

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1981 300TD
1986 300SDL

Oh please..."rattle cans" aren't so terrible. For most jobs, they work just fine...it's all about technique.

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Current cars:
2000 ML55 AMG, 174k miles
2003 C240 T-Modell, 202k miles
1995 S320, 207k Miles

Wheels aren't most jobs. Why so sensitive?

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1981 300TD
1986 300SDL

Well, it has been a whole year since I stripped and repainted the bundts. Here they are. No problem yet and they still look pretty good.

I tried out TCP Global's Hot Rod Flatz - Satin Argent silver paint on my stock 15"x 7" "new look" wheels for an 86-89 SL. Previously, I had another set powdercoated, but it wasn't cheap. And, although the finish really is incredibly tough (washed off a winter's brake dust WITH SOAP AND WATER from inside the wheel(!)), they look "too shiny" to me.

This is a "semi-flat" paint, single stage, and it uses a hardener that requires breathing apparatus, so, not recommended unless you have a setup for paint spraying. It also uses very fine silica that tends to settle to the bottom of the can, and stirring alone isn't really enough to get it thoroughly mixed - you have to have it shaken at a paint store shortly before use. But I will say that the color and the finish was excellent, and I don't know if it was skill or just dumb luck, but it went on like glass and dried with an even pewter-like sheen.

I had previously stripped the wheels with Aircraft thinner, and primed them with two-part epoxy primer, also from TCP Global. This is a very tough primer that takes a day or two to dry well even with the catalyst, but it's worth the wait.

Lacquer, air-dried paint simply cannot be as tough as catalyzed paint. Paint from a spray can, expertly applied on a perfectly-prepared set of wheels, can look good - for a few years, anyway. But my plans were longer-term for these "winter" wheels. The one tricky aspect of semi-flat paint like this is that it must never be buffed or wet-sanded when finished. You don't want them to get shiny! However, the paint should be as durable as any auto paint when completely dry (About a week).

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86 560SL
With homebrew first gear start!
85 380SL
Daily Driver Project

http://juliepalooza.8m.com/sl/mercedes.htm

thanks for this link, i know its old but just a question to whomever can catchup!!

Whats the best thing to dissolve the caked up grime on the inside part of the wheel?

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1985 300TD Turbo Diesel Wagon
273,000 miles

i am using simple green to clean the wheels and remove all grime before i strip the paint... so far its working great but i have only completed one wheel

Thanks for all your great posts here, I followed the steps most of you guys did and had great results.

1. Pressure Washed Wheels
2. Chemical Paint Remover
3. Pressure Washed/Medium Steel Wool
4. VHT Primer/Fine Steel Wool/Tack Rag/ - 3 coats
5. VHT Color/Fine Steel Wool/Tack Rag/ - 3 coats
6. VHT Clear/Fine Steel Wool/Tack Rag/ - 3 coats

Before and after pics attached. I was very happy with the results, I hope they hold up just as good as others have.

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1983 300TD - 202k with 5 speed Getrag conversion

Do not get it.

I am thinking of painting my bundts. Please clarify what you mean. Also, how did your painted wheels hold up? Thank you.

Not sure what you mean???

Well, I have to think about it.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

The repainted bundts have held up quite well. It has been a few years now.

Repainted the bundts in 2007. Here is a picture taken today. 16 years later. Have held up pretty well.

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