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#1
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2012 Bimmer convertable with snapped wheel locking nut.
The search engine on this forum is keying off on the word 'Key,' and 'Lock,' which left me with no leads similar to the problems I'm having with this BMW.
A photo is worth a thousand words but with that I'll add the bolt on these locking nuts has the sleeve around it so driving a socket on it has failed to grip the nut. Ok, I know these are bolts such as used by my W126. Can anyone advise me of a cheap way out here. I have lots of tools but will buy any suggested to try.
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84 300SD 85 380SE 83 528e 95 318ic Last edited by Clemson88; 01-27-2024 at 12:50 PM. Reason: I freaked out a bit and hit 'post,' before attaching the photo. |
#2
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Here is the photo:
<img src="http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/attachment.php?attachmentid=167749&stc=1&d=1706374426">
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84 300SD 85 380SE 83 528e 95 318ic |
#3
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Remove some other lug bolts to see if corrosion is an issue, if it is ,start soaking it with penetrating oil repeatedly.
Thoroughly protect the wheel with duct tape or the like and start grinding in the center of the the lug bolt. Could try grinding a notch off center to put a punch into and then striking the punch in the loosening direction. If a used wheel is available at a fair price you could sacrifice the wheel by grinding it away but that would be my last resort. Change all of the locks, they have likely been subjected to impact tools.
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"Rudeness is a weak man's imitation of strength" - Eric Hoffer |
#4
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I think we're going to abandon the locks.
Quote:
I won't lose the wheel. I've tried driving a socket on the bolt but it has a sleeve which isn't bound to the bolt. I'd like to pick the trash out of the groove but chances are it will break the new locking tool we bought either way. I'm personally resolved to welding a nut on the crown of the bolt and using an impact wrench to remove it. A nice big fat nut welding on the inside of the hole where the threads lie. I think I'll try the punch before breaking out a welder. Thanks much.
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84 300SD 85 380SE 83 528e 95 318ic |
#5
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If you can weld a nut on there it is THE way to go, go straight to that.
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"Rudeness is a weak man's imitation of strength" - Eric Hoffer |
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Thanks, brother.
Quote:
Since my original post I've eliminated everything other prospective solution I've found.
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84 300SD 85 380SE 83 528e 95 318ic |
#7
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Did you give one of these a try?
https://www.harborfreight.com/universal-locking-lug-nut-removal-set-58535.html You are saying it just spins an external sleeve if I follow correctly? Fwiw I had this happen to my 135 back in the day, dealer was able to get it off somehow. I nearly sheared a second key but caught it in time befoee breaking.
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TC Current stable: - 2004 Mazda RALLYWANKEL - 2007 Saturn sky redline - 2004 Explorer...under surgery. Past: 135i, GTI, 300E, 300SD, 300SD, Stealth |
#8
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Are you using an impact gun? for something like this I'd use a long breaker bar,
if you have a new key and can pick out the broken bits you might have a chance to get things to budge |
#9
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Breaker bar is how I broke mine. There is a higher probability and more angle variability to have the socket slide off a bit and bend the lock surface. Once I used my impact I did not have any trouble.
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TC Current stable: - 2004 Mazda RALLYWANKEL - 2007 Saturn sky redline - 2004 Explorer...under surgery. Past: 135i, GTI, 300E, 300SD, 300SD, Stealth |
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